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Yeah, it's amazing after all the work you put into the reasons why a series R/R is the better choice.bad move
Amazon and ebay might confuse you with their R/R offerings, but a Polaris dealer won't -ask for part #4012941; I got mine from Washington state- $65 plus $10 shipping. My local Polaris dealer wanted $78 (list price) plus sales tax.
Steve
GS Whisperer
It is my understanding that Electrex was recommended back then because Electrex was a sponsor of GSR.bad move
I could be mistaken (again).
.
8
850GT_Rider
Guest
SH775 & Rick's Stator. R/R mounted on the side of the battery box, moved other stuff to make room.
Works great. Hope the reliability is all we think it will be.
ray:
Works great. Hope the reliability is all we think it will be.
ray:
It is my understanding that Electrex was recommended back then because Electrex was a sponsor of GSR.
I could be mistaken (again).
.
If you read the often qouted stator pages you will find that they continue be modified and that there are even invitations to contribute. However I have seen little indication that any of the electrical and charging system developments from GSR have made it into the "stator pages" and electro sport continue to be identified as having a superior product for r/r.
I even tried to make contact with the authors but I received no response. So personally I never recommend the stator pages but will refer to modified versions ( that I did) of the flow charts. The rest of it is not really that well written nor concise enough. But the worst part is the continued "support" of electro sport. I think I might have mentioned shill in a post or two.
R
rockhammer
Guest
I ended up buying the compu fire. Going to see if I time to install tomorrow. In peoples opinion here how long could it take to install one of these?
wiring 10 minutes if you have the connections you want to use already in hand -
see here for the compufire compatible pin connectors. if you'll go this direction the wiring is breeze with these - http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=212488&highlight=NAPA
mounting, depends on where you end up putting it 10 min - 4 hours -
Not familiar with the 850L but on the 1981 750L I put it where the OEM R/R was and only had to drill one hole. Did have to grind a little off the CompufFire.
Steve
GS Whisperer
I am not going to say you made a bad choice (it's a good R/R, for sure), but would you mind telling me what there is about the Compufire that justified spending about double what the Polaris unit costs?
Both units are a bit larger than stock. Both units WILL fit in the stock location under the battery box (I know this from personal experience). Both units will need a little adaptation in the mounts and the wiring.
Just wondering why you spent the extra money.
.
R
rockhammer
Guest
I am not going to say you made a bad choice (it's a good R/R, for sure), but would you mind telling me what there is about the Compufire that justified spending about double what the Polaris unit costs?
Both units are a bit larger than stock. Both units WILL fit in the stock location under the battery box (I know this from personal experience). Both units will need a little adaptation in the mounts and the wiring.
Just wondering why you spent the extra money.
.
Hello
I bought this unit because of all the good things I read about it. I was not sure which other one to buy that would work on my bike for sure. I did not mind spending the extra money. I look forward to installing it.
Steve
GS Whisperer
R
rockhammer
Guest
Apparently you missed post #19.
.
I am sure I will be happy with the unit either way. I am not worried. I am just glad it is here and I can install today.
R
rockhammer
Guest
Is there a location in which I can find installation directions for the compufire? I did buy the parts and am trying to find installation guide on the resources but no luck.
Thanks
Thanks
no installation guide (for any of these aftermarket R/Rs) this is really good though - http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=161397
short story install - replace the OEM R/R wire-for-wire (there are other wiring options but this one is the simplest)
black to ground
red to positive
the other three to the three coming out of the stator (in any order)
short story install - replace the OEM R/R wire-for-wire (there are other wiring options but this one is the simplest)
black to ground
red to positive
the other three to the three coming out of the stator (in any order)
R
rockhammer
Guest
Looks like the g/w wire loops back to the r/w wire. Do I just cut this out? Also Do I need to replace old wire going to stator with new heavier gauge wire? Or do I just use the old wire and add the new pins? I created another thread thinking it would be good to separate the subject for future users to search compufire install.
R
rockhammer
Guest
Also the red wire looks like it goes to the fuse box. Does this get removed since the rr has a 40 amp fuse on the positive side?
G
Guest
Guest
It is my understanding that Electrex was recommended back then because Electrex was a sponsor of GSR.
I could be mistaken (again).
.
You are not mistaken!
I had to replace the starter clutch (dead when I bought the bike), so I, even though mine was charging OK, installed the Electrex at that time('96?).
B
Beerman73
Guest
I can't find a sh775 , on back order .
Steve
GS Whisperer
Standard practice is to eliminate that "mystery loop" and connect the wht/grn wire from the stator directly to the wht/red wire on the R/R. Since you are installing a new R/R that probably does not have a wht/red wire, just connect the three stator wires to the three inputs on the R/R.
There is no need to replace anything with heavier wire.
That would depend on how you connect your new R/R. If you connect the red output wire of the R/R to the stock red wire, you can eliminate the 40 amp fuse. However, if you connect your new R/R directly to the battery, you will need a 20 or 25 amp fuse in the line (not a 40) between the R/R and the battery. You will also need to make sure you fully insulate the stock red wire that is now dangling, as it will be 'hot' all the time. you don't want it touching anything.
You will also need to change the MAIN fuse in the fuse box to something larger than 15 amps. 20 amps might be OK, 25 will work for sure. This is because of the R/R being connected directly to the battery. Now, all of the current necessary to run the bike will be going through the main fuse ALL the time, not just before the engine starts. In the stock configuration, the battery provides power (through the MAIN fuse) until the engine starts, then the R/R provides power (through that dangling red wire). When the engine is turning fast enough to make more electricity than the bike needs, the excess is sent back through the MAIN fuse, in the other direction, to charge the battery. Because the load is split between the bike and charging the battery, the fuse never has to handle more than 15 amps. When you move the R/R wire to the battery, EVERYTHING has to go through the fuse ALL the time.
.
