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I know I don't...
I just sit on the bike, lean over, grab the chain and see if it's 'bout right...
And 'bout right hasn't changed since my first bike back in 1972 or so...
On know that won't due
We are gonna need a couple of collimated lasers, a vertical reference compensated for local "G" variations and perhaps an international standard weight for a GS rider :-&.
Please check the tire pressure so that we can get started but first is this chain or shaft drive (really it makes a difference)?
On know that won't due
We are gonna need a couple of collimated lasers, a vertical reference compensated for local "G" variations and perhaps an international standard weight for a GS rider :-&.
Yes, but did you actually dip the carbs?
For me I go with about 1.5" movement total (between fully up & fully down) at the centre point of the chain with butt in the saddle.
Clone
Guest
With the 83, I find if I adjust it to the deflection listed in the manual while it is on the centre stand it is tighter than He{{ when I am on the bike.
So I set the deflection with someone sitting on thebike. This I find makes it perfect when my wife also rides with me. The chain is neither too tight nor too loose I keep it lubed and don't need to adjust it except maybe in the spring.
Setting a chain too tight is what kills it, the chain wears too fast.
Steve
GS Whisperer
Although the output shaft on which the front sprocket is mounted, the swing arm pivot and the rear axle are almost in a straight line, think of them as the corners of a triangle. Unless they are in a straight line, due to rider/passenger weight, the distance from the output shaft to the axle will always be less than the sum of the other two sides. This means that the chain will always be tightest when those three points are in a straight line. Best to check your chain tension at that time to assure that you will always have a bit of slack, however small.
Raise the rear wheel by removing the shocks and levering it up with a 2x4 or pulling it up with a ratchet strap over the frame until the three points area in a line. Adjust the chain to have just a little bit of slack at that point. Re-assemble the rear suspension, allow the shocks to extend fully by putting the bike on the centerstand. Measure the chain slack again. Since this measurement is a LOT easier to duplicate, you at least now know that by setting to this measurement, you will still have a bit of slack when the three points are aligned. You should only have to do this once, unless you change the length of your rear shocks.
By the way, the point where the three points are aligned is probably somewhere mid-point in the rear wheel's travel. Adding a passenger and luggage for a trip, which will compress the shock further, will probably take the axle over the line of the other two points and add slack.
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