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Best way to remove the motor?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Astroman
  • Start date Start date
A

Astroman

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from a katana 1100?

Also i need to buy a top end gasket kit as well as a couple more gaskets for side covers. Should i get the APE chain Slider or a stock one?

Any more tips for this work would be welcome...
 
If its anything like the GS1100Es, you may need a hand, but once you get all the mounts out, take it out the RIGHT side of the bike (if you were sitting on it, right side) Its awkward, and be carefull of your fingers, but with two people, its not crazy hard. Why do you need to get it out? The entire top end can be rebuilt with the block still in the frame, at least on the normal GS's. Ive never worked on a Kat tho. APE manual cam chain tensioner is a great addition if you have a plan for hi performance upgrades in the motor, tho, if cleaned and working properly, the stock auto tensioner works just fine for the stock motor. I could go either way on it. Just make sure you keep it properly tensioned if you use the APE tensioner.
 
A really useful tool to have when removing the motor is a.....large block of wood.
What you want is a block say 18 inches square (or circle so a slice of tree trunk will be fine) and about an inch or so lower than the bottom of the frame where the motor sits. Place this block on the RH side of the bike and lift the motor on to it while you are astride the bike. Or if you've got a mate helping one lifts on the LH side while the other lifts and pulls / places on the RH side. Once the motor is clear of snags on the frame wiggle the block of wood and motor clear of the frame until you can get a good lifting position.
Ditto TCK on the tensioners and be prepared to have loads of conflicting advice on which brand of gaskets to use. Personally I've always stuck to the main brands - Suzuki original / Vesrah / Athena etc and never had a problem. Others will tell you different stories.
 
I've heard of people that just remove everything attached to the motor then lay the entire bike on its side to get the motor out.
 
I've heard of people that just remove everything attached to the motor then lay the entire bike on its side to get the motor out.
Ive actually dont that as well. Used an old tire for the motor to fall into. But the bike is best when TOTALLY stripped other than the forks and wheels. Otherwise you risk dinging something up. I actually laid the bike down, and then me and a buddy LIFTED the entire frame up around the motor as not to snag anything. Frankly, it was just as easy to pick it out when it was standing up... Either way, its not TOUGH, just awkward as i said.
 
I've had an slick idea for removing a motor, but haven't got around to trying it yet. Use a barbell bar (solid steel, 1", 5 ft long) and suspend it from the ceiling with 2 come-alongs. Take it through the frame, above the motor, with the motor close to one end of the bar. Attach the motor to the bar so it can slide (clamps through the intake mounts? tie-down straps?). Raise the motor with the come-alongs. Even if it not perfectly balanced, the majority of the weight will be suspended. Guide the motor out by sliding along the bar, and lowering after clear. If the bar wants to swing, it can be anchored. If the bar is suspended from the floor (no come-alongs), the bike can be raised/lowered by inflating/deflating tires for clearance. I think I'll try this soon.

It should be a one man operation, without the resulting disk operation.
 
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If the top ends coming off the engine its best to strip it down to the crank cases in the frame and then lift the remaining engine out. Its half the weight and a lot easier on the back and fingers.

The Kat engine is the same as the GS11 cafekid and the same frame also so no real difference.

Suzuki mad
 
I've used my motorcycle lift and a piece of 2x4. With the bike on the center stand, lift the engine out the right side with the 2x4 on top of the lift just enough to roll it halfway out of the frame, nice and straight and level. Once the wood hits the frame, set the engine down on the frame rail while holding it steady. Lower the lift a bit and re-position the wood on the outside of the frame. Roll the engine the rest of the way out. No lifting, no crushed fingers, no cursing, just happiness. Levers and wheels are the best tools ever!

I took the breather cap off of my 1000 to give that little bit of extra room.
 
I used two wooden rails and just slided the motor out to the one side and put it back in the same way without a second person.
 
If the top ends coming off the engine its best to strip it down to the crank cases in the frame and then lift the remaining engine out. Its half the weight and a lot easier on the back and fingers.

The Kat engine is the same as the GS11 cafekid and the same frame also so no real difference.

Suzuki mad
If i werent stripping the frame, or cracking the cases, the bottom end wouldnt ever come out on my bikes anyway...no need to really;)
 
I've done the lay down method. I prefer it especially for re-insallation , if you've painted or PC'd the frame...I thinks it's easier to prevent dings and chips.
 
I just pulled my 750 out. After removing cylinder and head, and disconnecting the wires, I put a floor jack under it, wiggled it over to the left side, then got a good grip and lifted it onto a dolly myself. Not that heavy really.
I have lifted 4 cyl car engines out by standing on the fenders and just lifting it up and onto the ground by a rope secured to the engine.
 
i guess i can let the cases on the frame no money for powdercoating right now and frame looks ok some scrathes here and there but looks ok.

Now how about a Top end gasket kit? Websites or Ebay?
 
I've heard of people that just remove everything attached to the motor then lay the entire bike on its side to get the motor out.

That's what we did too, last week, only that we stripped everything off the bike, leaving only the frame and the front wheel, laid the bike on it's side on a mechanic's large-parts trolley and then lifted the bike up.
 
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