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Big Jay input please

  • Thread starter Thread starter Dink
  • Start date Start date
D

Dink

Guest
As most may know, My Katana is gonna need a rebuild.
I am considering replacing all valves retainers etc with titanium, Input please, advantages, dis-advantages?
Do I need to change guide material or seat material to match??
This is a street motor, not a drag racer.
I am hoping to increase torque band width and depth, intending to bore to 1260cc, currently 1166cc.
Should I increase sizes or stay with stock??
I see the titanium valves as being good for longevity, reducing strain in the valve train, and probably increasing responsiveness, am I correct??

Dink
 
BTW I would appreciate anyone's input.
Big Jay and/or his company do this stuff professionally.

Dink
 
Dink said:
BTW I would appreciate anyone's input.
Big Jay and/or his company do this stuff professionally.

Dink
Click to expand...


erm - well I dont think input from a Big Phark would in anyway help... save to bump the post lol....

glad plans are underway m8 - remember to lemme know if any parts show up in this corner of the country....:-D
 
Hot-ups

Hot-ups

Dink,Dink,Dink what are you doing matey! Sorry sounds like i know what im talking about. Why titanium? My old boss at a bike shop up here spends a lot of time rebuilding yzf and crf heads as the titanuim valves drop there guts. Nothing wrong with stainless valves i reckon. Got ex ones in mine and standard inlets and hasnt failed me yet. Opps shouldnt have said that. Well thats my opinion and im sure you will hear more. talk soon on the ph bye.
 
Well if you got the cash.... but I favor 1mm plus stainless valves with stock parts. It's not like the stock retainers can't do their job. If you can find a 1150 head and do alittle cleanup in the ports that would be the best bang for the buck.

Or you could just rebuild your old head with a race valve job and the money save could go for alittle porting too.
 
My two valve engine, welded crank, ported and polished head, I was told to go Stainless so that is what we did. They are one piece units so they will not separate from the increased revving the engine will produce now.

Dink, I sent you a PM, did you see it yet?
 
I thought I read where APE is moving. I have some parts I placed on order with them six weeks ago. You may be waiting a while if you go this route. You may want to check with Kevin at FBG.
 
I had a friend that put the titanium valves in his busa 8.20 bike. It slowed right down. He took them back out and put the stainless back in. I think I would stay with stainless.
 
Dink,
I sent you a Pm about Orient Express
I found valves,pistons and rings from them in my 1000 2V motor
years ago.
Not sure what the yhave now, I do know they still build drag motors
 
I use all stock valves. Have seen no reason to put anything different into them yet. My GS street bike still has the original valves at 70,000 miles or so. What more would I need?
 
My Kat has 90K on it, I am having to rebuild the motor anyway (f'n blind cager) so I am considering if it is a worthwnile upgrade "whilst I am in there" I expect that lighter valves and other valve gear would reduce stress in the valvetrain. I dont however know if guides and seats need to be a different material to suit. It appears I will need to use valve caps to protect the valve head surface, any idea as to how reliable these are?
It appears that there is little knowledge about this here, any suggestions as to where to look?

TIA
Dink
 
Dink said:
It appears that there is little knowledge about this here, any suggestions as to where to look? TIA
Dink
Click to expand...

I thought I gave you the best advice I could. Talk to Kevin at FBG. (716) 773-1536 EST. IMO, they do some very good work and I am sure they would be happy to try and answer your questions.

I used to read these old chooper mags when I was a kid. Easy Rider and the like. There was this one that had a picture of a couple of young ladies hanging out. One had a tank top on that read:

"You can lead a horticulture but you can not make her think"

That must have been 30 years ago.
 
lecroy said:
I thought I read where APE is moving. I have some parts I placed on order with them six weeks ago. You may be waiting a while if you go this route. You may want to check with Kevin at FBG.
Click to expand...

Our shipping department will only be down four days because of the move.

Jay
 
Dink;
I would stick with stainless valves. Titanium valves need bronze seats. They increase RPM range by 500 to 800 RPM. No real advantage on a street bike.

We are the leading supplier of this cylinder head stuff, so If we can be of help, please e-mail sales@aperaceparts.com

Jay
 
rosco15 said:
I had a friend that put the titanium valves in his busa 8.20 bike. It slowed right down. He took them back out and put the stainless back in. I think I would stay with stainless.
Click to expand...

Please explain how titanium valves would slow a bike down.

Jay
 
Big Jay said:
Dink;
I would stick with stainless valves. Titanium valves need bronze seats. They increase RPM range by 500 to 800 RPM. No real advantage on a street bike.

We are the leading supplier of this cylinder head stuff, so If we can be of help, please e-mail sales@aperaceparts.com

Jay
Click to expand...

Bronze seats aint a problem, I work in an engine re-conditioners now.
Will/could/should titanium valves be of any real advantage? i.e. longevity? reduced stress? more available power?

BTW I tried to talk to FBG and got an email reply to call them. Do 1800 phone numbers work on an international call??

Dink
 
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