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Big mess up on GS1000 engine install. What are my options?

  • Thread starter Thread starter crackerman
  • Start date Start date
C

crackerman

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Did something really dumb installing my 78 GS1000 engine. I put the wrong side/size lower engine bolt (longer bolt) in on the left side of my engine, over tightened it and punctured my engine case. I was pretending that it was ok, but when I put it on my kickstand the oil started leaking out. I really want to kick my self in the balls.

Any way, what would you say my best option is? I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to take the engine back out. Find a used engine? What engines (other than a 78) will work for me? Can the hole be fixed? I've put too much time into it and other than this major issue everything else is really nice on her.

 
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See Rustybroncos thread DESTINKING PENELOPE. He had to face the same thing from what the PO had done this exact same thing. Ideally splitting the cases and having the hole welded from the inside is the preferred way to go.

Some have JB welded it from the out side..but I myself am very leary of doing things that way. Will it stay sealed? will the JB suddenly fall off somewhere while I am riding? Too uncertain for my piece of mind in the long run. If i have to fix something I go about it with the attitude that its gonna be done once..right..and reliably.
 
I know that moment. Same feeling when I dropped a bolt down the cam chain tunnel of my CB1100F.
 
Best option? Pull the engine and take it to a welding shop where they should be able to stick weld it from the outside using DC reverse (straight?) polarity. Second best option is pull the engine, lay it on it's side, decrease, sand and JB weld the crack closed. Third best option is pull the engine, turn it upside down and split the cases and have the crack welded from the inside.

Me? I'd take a picture of the area and visit a welding shop to see if they can weld it from the outside if at all possible.


Oh and ah, it's not the end of the world. :)
 
Rusty how difficult is it to split the cases? Do I need any special tools? I don't want to open the case and have to dump a bunch of money in order to get it back together. I think I can get an engine case for about $100 off ebay or get a complete engine for about $400.

Looks like it would be difficult to weld from the outside. I think, like Rusty said, the best bet is to disassemble and weld from the inside, or find a new case. Any way, the engine is back out. I'm getting pretty good at installing and removing this engine on my own.



 
difficult to see from the pics but that looks like a clean hole through there. you may get away with just removing the sump, running a drill through the hole and tapping a thread in it. put a bolt in the hole from the inside out with plenty of loctite and making sure it doesn't protrude out too far from the casing, so you got enough clearance to get the original bolt securing nut/lug in.
Also make sure there is clearance inside the case so the bolt head you have installed wont hit any reciprocating parts..

Maybe a cheap option????
 
I don't think tapping the hole is an option because the punched out hole is likely cone shaped and it only because that area is so strong that the damage isn't spread further, I did exactly the same thing years ago fitting some engine guards without the spacer, if I remember correctly I took sump off and the guy managed to get his tig torch inside and fill the hole. I cant remember, whip the sump off and have a look.
 
I can very easily take a few pictures of my lower case half as its already apart.

Which side did you crack?
 
I can very easily take a few pictures of my lower case half as its already apart.

Which side did you crack?

Yes pictures would be great. Thanks.
If your sitting on the bike it's the left side of the case. I'm going to get it on the engine stand soon and get a better look at it. Plus I can flip the engine.
 
Maybe a twp step approach from a welding shop would work.

First..drill a hole thru the outer face to allow access to the hole from the outside and have them weld the hole shut.

Then step two would be to fill the drilled access hole and smooth off the inside of the pocket and the outside of the face itself.
 
Ok got it out in the light and took the oil pan off. I was able to jam my iphone in the case and get some decent pics from the inside. Doesn't look good. I might just try to find an engine bottom end or replacement case. Either way I should tear it apart and see what can be done.


outside pic

From the inside of the case:
 
That will be fine, you will repair that easy as Dale says, (if the welder cant get his tig torch in there) then just flip it over and take the lower crankcase off, They are machined as pairs upper and lower are done as one/.
 
I had one like this. Brake cleaned the shot out of it then used JB weld. Held for a long time.

Either way, the welder should be able to take care of you.

*edited - damn phone autocorrect.
 
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If you can see the damage from the inside, take a long drift and tap the hole closed a bit, then it's off to the welders with the engine in tow.... :)
 
I'm going to see it I can take the whole engine to a welder and see what he can do. I'll do as Rusty says and tap the hole closed from the inside. Here's a shot of the engine bolts. As you can see there's not too much different in length but make a huge difference in what side they go on. The smaller one actually seemed work fine on the right side.

Top one, right side, bottom bolt, left side.
 
I'm thinking they can stick an electrode through the bolt hole and have an assistant flip the switch on the welder. You could also remove a portion of the case above the hole, TIG the hole shut and weld the section back in place. But who am I to say what they will think may be the best way to attack the problem.
 
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So I'm at this point with the engine:

Didn't want to split the case but I'm glad that I did. Found this piece in the center that was broken into pieces:


The original hole that I made actually got bigger and the piece popped out. Took the bottom case to the welder today and sounds like he'll be able to fix it.

Question. What have you guys used for sealant when putting the cases back together? Book says (Suzuki three bond; 99000-3 1030)?
 
My Suzuki dealer sold me Three Bond 1194, that's what they recommend.

Worked great, but it can get messy, you need to get an even coat on all the mating surfaces.
 
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