Bike feels a little squirrelly - diff. fork oil levels?

[bryan]

Thanks all.

I replaced the forks with used forks: suspect

Used triples. The tubes went in SLIGHTLY difficult, so I replaced: suspect

Everything else seems to check out. I'm considering taking it to this place:

http://www.gmdatl.com/

They'll map out everything, can supposedly straighten forks, triples, and (hopefully not) the frame.

Does anybody have experiences with similar services? I was very impressed with the guy on the phone. It would be expensive (worst case around $800, supposedly). But I think I've ruled everything else out, and my emotional attachment to the bike far exceeds the irrational expenditure.

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Only related experience I have is with a couple of friends bikes and one of my own. Of course, your minor(?)/low speed accident could have different results.
On my old '66 Yamaha 305 with external springed forks, I hit a truck as it pulled out sharply from between cars, Never saw it coming. I was going about 30/35 mph and hit pretty hard. The forks were noticably bent but could still be straightened. That was about 34 years ago and cost $60. I was only 19 and not as aware of things mechanically as I am now but I had no instability/frame issues despite damaged forks, bars and a minor amount of fork clamp damage that I tweaked out myself.
Two friends had low speed accidents (one was a GS). Both had bent the forks but could still be straightened. I helped re-assemble one of them and noticed the straightened forks (which were straightened very well) had a little difficulty slipping through but we got them to go in without too much trouble. A local salvage yard straightened both forks and I believe both were under $100. That was about 12-15 years ago. Neither bike showed any handling problems I remember.
I certainly can't say for sure if your frame is OK but the frames are pretty strong. I kind of doubt you bent it enough to cause a handling problem. Most low speed damage is generally soaked up by the forks and clamps.
Now if you took them to a shop that straightened them, I'd take then back and ask them to show me how they determined they are straight. If there's any doubt about any used forks, have them inspected as well. As for the clamps, most bending is generally the lower clamp. If a fork didn't slip in right, I'd suspect the lower clamp and carefully tweak it so it visually looks in line with the upper and tweak until the fork goes in right. Assemble everything and take lots of measurements to assure things are basically parallel, etc. Without the wheel, the axle should slide in easily, etc. Spin the wheel and check for runout.
Be very careful to torque the steering bearing correctly. Get your models factory manual and follow front end assembly exactly.
I'm just trying to say to be sure before you spend more $. And that comes from someone who also cares more about a quality repair than how much it costs. I spent $10,000 on my '79 GS1000E restoration and many would call me nuts.
I may be wrong but I lean towards something other than the frame is causing your problem. I've ridden bikes with wheels that I know were not balanced too and never felt a handling issue as you describe.
It should be easy to check the entire front end for straightness (forks/clamps/wheel/axle) and to follow exact re-assembly instructions. If after that it still has a handling issue, then I'd focus on the frame.

 

[bryan]

Thanks for the response, Keith.

I doubt it's the frame, too. I was maybe doing 10 mph, and barely even tipped the bike. Almost caught it but couldn't quite keep it up. So it was relatively low impact.

Before dropping a bunch of cash I'll definitely triple check. But the wheel is straight, head bearing and assembly seems to be correct, etc. And the forks and triples I bought on eBay LOOK straight, but my non-scientific ways of checking are imprecise at best.

I'll keep you posted.