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Bike Rebuild Questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter 1978gs550E
  • Start date Start date
1

1978gs550E

Guest
I wanted to know really quickly some answers to questions that arising from my current rebuild. First, how do I effectively clean all the "dirty" parts that are coming off of my bike? Things like the engine block, the sprockets, the corroded screws, the corroded parts, ect. I was thinking of pressure washing some of the stuff but that isn't going to get everything off of my parts. Plus, I need to clean my cams and things like that (pistons as well) and I have no idea how to do this.


Second, how in the h e double hockey sticks to I break free stubborn screws? They are phillip screws and nothing I have tried has worked but I need to get them out and not strip them. Any help on this is appreciated.


Lastly, for now, what kind of oil will I need to re-lubricate parts after I have effectively cleaned them and started the actual rebuilding process?
 
I am just finishing my first rebuild of sorts. I cleaned everything with SimpleGreen it took off grease like no tomorrow. I didn't do any piston or cam cleaning though (didn't go that far this time) For the metal well that a complicated question, depends on what you are trying to do. Steel wool can work wonders, as can wet sand paper, but again it depends on what you are working with, aluminum, chrome and how bad of condition is it. For those nasty Japanese philips head screws, I used a cutting bit on a dremel, made it the right width for a large slotted and bobs your uncle. Make sure you have replacement screws. I purchased a bolt kit from Burks Motorsports and it worked great, along with a few misc. from Canadian Tire. For re lubing the nuts and bolts use any anti seize product. Best of luck.
 
Parts Washer with degreasing solvent

Impact Driver after soaking in PB blaster

Assembly lube and/or motor oil
 
all of the above +
- for engine internal parts you can use petrol to clean the old oil and sludge off
- for piston rings' groves use plastic or wooden picks and a carbon-cleaning-solvent (from the auto-store). the same for the cylinder heads (domes)
- for the valves you can use a brass wire brush
 
One extra tip for cleaning greasy and rusty parts, I use Kerosene. Smelly but effective.
 
don_gibb6512 said:
One extra tip for cleaning greasy and rusty parts, I use Kerosene. Smelly but effective.
Click to expand...

Odorless mineral spirits is what I use. Cleans well, fairly cheap, less toxic than many other chemicals, and doesn't stink.

To clean rusted bits, Evapo Rust works well. Harbor Freight sells it for $20/gallon. Just drop the rusted parts in there and in a day or so it will be rust free - degrease first though.
 
don_gibb6512 said:
One extra tip for cleaning greasy and rusty parts, I use Kerosene. Smelly but effective.
Click to expand...
I have a 3-gallon recirculating parts washer tank (courtesy of my wife :D). I have a couple gallons of kerosene in there and it does a wonderful job. I don't notice the smell. There is a lid that closes down over the tank, but there is no gasket on it, so it's not air-tight.
After about a year and a half, the fluid is running brown, I think it might be time to put in a fresh batch. :-k

.
 
The main problem I have with using petrol (gasoline),kerosene or other flammable liquids to clean parts is the fire hazard. I prefer to use a non flammable degreaser.
 
tkent02 said:
Cheaper than one ruined screw.
Click to expand...

And hearing about teaching the neighbor kids some new words. :eek:

Google up impact screwdriver. You should get a wide range of hits. Harbor freight to snap on.

Scott
 
I bought a craftsman impact driver and have been very happy with it. I think I paid around $20 and it has a 1/2" square drive so you can use it with impact sockets as well.

As for greasy parts cleaning I use a mixture of a nasty looking/smelling product called rost-off, kerosene and a bit of motor oil Keeps everything lubed/rust-prevented and cleans very well. I have also used gasoline, kerosene, acetone, alcohol (90%+), and simple green. I work with pretty nasty chemicals daily while at work, so these things don't really bother me. I use good latex gloves and a respirator when needed. I also do this work in my garage with the door open.
 
1978gs550E said:
How much is an impact driver?
Click to expand...

I'd be surprised if it was $20 but you WILL need it and WILL use it. Replace all case screws possible with a replacement kit. Search around the site for what others are using. I used a kit from Stainlesscycle.com and it was incomplete and some wrong length screws.:mad:

I bought a bottle of SimpleGreen to degrease and it did a great job, easy on the enviro., your hands, smells better than kerosene.
 
Also, the BEST thing to use to clean the carbon out of the ring grooves is one of the old rings! NOTHING works as well! Go to Harbor Freight or Sears to buy an impact screwdriver. Ray.
 
I'd get a Sears impact. Those Harbor Freight jobs are pretty crappy from what I've heard.
 
Yes, I did scare the tip off the phillips bit before I even hit the thing with a hammer.

Scott
 
almarconi said:
The main problem I have with using petrol (gasoline),kerosene or other flammable liquids to clean parts is the fire hazard. I prefer to use a non flammable degreaser.
Click to expand...


http://www.ci.pasadena.ca.us/fire/Prevention/flammablesubstances.asp

The flash point of Kerosene is 110 degrees. Possible but not likely that you will be using Kerosene for a cleaning solvent when it's that hot. I've had great results cleaning rusty and really greasy parts that would otherwise have taken A LOT more effort to clean without it.

Don
 
Sears (craftsman) has the impact for around $20-$25 and Home Depot (Husky brand) has them for around $16. They should last for a long time. Just in case, buy an extra PH2 bit for the impact. Mine only came with one that size. I also bought 2 PH1 bits.
 
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