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Blast & paint engine w/o disassembly?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Spikus
  • Start date Start date
S

Spikus

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Simple question - can it be done if the engine/trans are fine? I know adequately plugging all the holes prior to blasting would probably be the hardest part, but I really hate to break open the engine if I don't need to.
 
you don't need to.....

I did not blast, I just cleaned, used a wire wheel, brushes, etc...

clean well, mask well, plug holes and paint....

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blasting with what? sand/bead/shot/vapour or just pressure washing?

it is possible, there are companies that specialize in bead/vapour blasting complete engines but it is expensive.

if you plan to do it yourself you have to make 110% every orifice is completely blocked.
 
I'm planning the same thing, I was going to use soda (as it is soluble), and make metal plates for the carb inlet with a touch of liquid gasket bolted behind the carb inlets, and just dont blast directly onto joints where possible, something similar for the exhaust outs including stuff them with rags...I think it should work? going to try it out first on my GN250 as it's obviously not as precious as my GS :)
 
Soda blasting will work the best - very fine and it gives a bit of rotation for a few weeks if you don't paint straight away.

Otherwise paint stripper with a high pressure washer worked for me! :D
 
I soda blasted my engine. It does get everyware but it will disolve. I need to clean out my contact points though and had to vacume my starter motor.

Havnt painted the engine yet though.. thats monday
 
Soda is the way to go . Didn't affect rubber , seals etc . I sealed all the holes with million mile an hour tape and all good .

Cheers , Simon .
 
Good info

Good info

Thanks, I am just at that point as well, I have my engine apart but do not want to split the cases if possible.
At present it's an oily greasy mess and I'm not sure how to proceed as I hate the mess it makes when trying to clean the engine without a large parts washer or something like that.
Seems the best option is to clean the lower cases by hand with a brush and wire wheel on a drill. I will need to either reassemble the top of the engine or tape everything off to avoid getting grit in the crankcase.
I had the cylinders and head lightly sand blasted while they were getting reworked, I got the cylinders honed and new exhaust valve seats and seals installed.
I plan on painting the engine with VHT SP127 rattle can, so hopefully they look a lot better after that's done.
I am taking photos as I go so I'll post some pictures when I finally start my rebuild thread.;)
 
If you can find a dry ice blaster, that's the best because it just evaporates. Soda comes in 2nd

Be sure you degrease it first
 
dry ice will only take dirt and crud off, it wont take off old paint and wont touch the surface of the aluminium like bead or soda blasting will
 
Bead blasting seems risky. Soda seems like a better choice.
 
GateKeeper said:
you don't need to.....

I did not blast, I just cleaned, used a wire wheel, brushes, etc...

clean well, mask well, plug holes and paint....
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Click to expand...
Great job!. That's the look want for my 1100E. Always preferred the black engine of the 1983, but I've already polished my side covers and leaving the polished will make a unique look for that model.

But I am lazy and might try painting it in the frame. Wasn't there someone last fall who painted their engine in the frame? That's where I first read about soda blasting.
 
posplayr said:
Walnut shells work well for blasting and it is relatively easy to clean up. I would not sand blast a motor I expected to run. The silica is extremely fine and you wont be able to keep it out.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=123490&highlight=walnut
Click to expand...
One possible advantage of walnut shells is that they are likely less abrasive should any of it actually get inside the engine. They will soften in the oil and grind into nothing. Soda powder would likely remain abrasive if it got inside the engine.

P.S. Love your bike, posplayr. Really nice.
 
degrease it very well with Simple green and long bristle brushes that will reach deep between the fins and in all cracks and tight spots.

Next, have it either vapor or soda blasted..DO NOT use glass beads or other media..... as they do not disolve with a simple washing like soda does. Vapor, of course, doesnt leave anything behind.

Paint with VHT high temp Universal Aluminumn (part # SP-127 ). Let it dry for at least 24 hrs before doing the step heating and curing process. Start it till you can feel the head getting almost too hot to hold your hand on it and shut it off and let it cool for about 30 minutes. Then restart and incrementally increase the heat / cool intervals.

This is critically important to step up the heating time incrementally...this prevents the paint from boiling and getting bubbles in it.
 
chuck hahn said:
degrease it very well with Simple green and long bristle brushes that will reach deep between the fins and in all cracks and tight spots.

Next, have it either vapor or soda blasted..DO NOT use glass beads or other media..... as they do not disolve with a simple washing like soda does. Vapor, of course, doesnt leave anything behind.

Paint with VHT high temp Universal Aluminumn (part # SP-127 ). Let it dry for at least 24 hrs before doing the step heating and curing process. Start it till you can feel the head getting almost too hot to hold your hand on it and shut it off and let it cool for about 30 minutes. Then restart and incrementally increase the heat / cool intervals.

This is critically important to step up the heating time incrementally...this prevents the paint from boiling and getting bubbles in it.
Click to expand...

yes it does, vapour blasting uses very fine blasting media,along with high pressure water. still needs to be rinsed thoroughly, as with bead blasting
 
All i have read on it says it doesnt...but then again I personally have never done it so I may be wrong too.
 
chuck hahn said:
All i have read on it says it doesnt...but then again I personally have never done it so I may be wrong too.
Click to expand...

it does, i have had it done on my engine,cases, block and head. you still need to thoroughly rinse all the parts through, not just because of the blast media but the minute crap it removes from the surfaces.
 
Guys on the Miata.net forum recommend a thorough spraying with brake cleaner as the final cleaning before spray painting engine parts. I've done two valve covers this way and the paint has held up really well for both of them.
 
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