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almarconi
Guest
Have you made any progress on this? I am going through the same issue with my 750L. First start of the day requires a puff on the vent tubes. I too have done the carb cleaning, valve adjustment, petcock replacement, new coils/plugs/wires..etc and the problem still exists. Since we are getting close to the end of the riding season I'm just going to live with it and ride the bike. I'll probably go through the carbs again over the winter to make sure they are clean. The problem is frustrating to say the least because the bike runs really well once it is started.
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Jon
Guest
I am no expert, but have a similar problem. My 81 GS750 stays out all the time. A well charged battery gives me better cold starts. Stronger spark?
Mine needs lots of choke, but be careful not to flood it....
I suspect the compression may be lower after sitting for awhile and on cold days. Maybe there is less oil on the rings, thermal contraction, etc.?
Mine needs lots of choke, but be careful not to flood it....
I suspect the compression may be lower after sitting for awhile and on cold days. Maybe there is less oil on the rings, thermal contraction, etc.?
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maro
Guest
I got to be honest. It's a friggin mystery to me. I've been riding almost every day, it's maybe happened once this month. even the days when the bike has been sitting for a couple days and it's rained, she's been firing right up.
The only thing I've been getting into the habit of, that might be different is that I now pull the choke ALL the way out (in the morning) and with out throttle, let it crank a few times. It will eventually catch and fire. I think before I was not letting it crank long enough.
Honestly, like I said, it's a mystery.
The only thing I've been getting into the habit of, that might be different is that I now pull the choke ALL the way out (in the morning) and with out throttle, let it crank a few times. It will eventually catch and fire. I think before I was not letting it crank long enough.
Honestly, like I said, it's a mystery.
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trappermcnutt
Guest
where to blow?
where to blow?
my girl is an '82 gs650 with a similar problem. where do i blow to get her going in the morning?
where to blow?
my girl is an '82 gs650 with a similar problem. where do i blow to get her going in the morning?
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supersonictoys
Guest
your choke system is designed to only work with the throttle all the way closed, otherwise the small inrichment opening in the carbs venturi will not receive enough vacuum to pull fuel up from the bowls when the choke is applied. also, the idle speed being to high can keep your carbs choke system from receiving enough vacuum to operate properly. try it again cold with NO throttle at all and full choke. if this doesn't work I would consider pulling the carbs and cleaning the choke circuits in the bowls as someone else already suggested.
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Don-lo
Guest
I agree with Sandy. Blowing in the tube is forcing fuel into the system, making it richer, and then it starts. Those choke circuits need to be opened.
Of course, good voltage at the coils is also important.
Of course, good voltage at the coils is also important.
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TheBigRed
Guest
I'll third this vote as well.
My 650 was this way for a LONG time, and I just dealt with it. Then I got re-build kits and dropped them in my 550's carbs and put those carbs in the 650, problem went away.. When I did get around to cleaning the 650 carbs the choke circuit was completely blocked on at least two of the carbs. Some guitar string and some gentle prodding/cleaning fixed them right up.
Amos
I also think you've spoiled yourself some by not using choke in the warm months, the bike doesn't need it as much then. But now that it's colder (as you stated) pulling the choke all the way out makes use of the choke circuitry and you've been getting it to start without blowing.
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TheBigRed
Guest
You should have vent tubes coming from between carbs one & two, and another between three & four. When I was doing this I used the one that came from between one & two, and it was enough to get the bike to start.
As I stated in my last post though this is a symptom of the choke circuit being blocked, time to tear down those carbs and do a good cleaning (btw, soaking alone isn't enough, though it loosens the crap) Thorough cleaning, paying special attention to the choke circuit running into the carb bowls. I kept at it until putting water into the channel at the top would flow (though slowly) out the small orifice in the bottom of the bowl.
Amos
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Zooks
Guest
Blowing me usually puts me to sleep. 
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ziggy2528
Guest
Ive got they same issue on a 80 gs550. In the morning I checked the temp and in the high 60's all it needed was choke. In the low 60's I would give 1 full twist of the throttle and let it return, and full choke and i could "catch it" and give a couple blips of the throttle it would run fine on the idle/choke. Lately its low 50's and I just pull the choke on and coast it down the driveway and bump into 2nd gear. Once it fires up it runs good on the choke but I give up trying to burn the starter up or draining the battery. Only another month to ride before its freezing.
I agree that this is the problem. So ,what else can be done to alleviate me having to blow the side of my bike every morning?
You could try talking dirty and giving her a big goose.
Earl
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Guest
Guest
I'm not in the least an authority on carbs, but it strikes me a little odd that while blowing into the vent tube that some gas leaks out of the gasket. If it leaks pushing gas out, it is certainly leaking air in. You may be temporarily sealing it until it warms up and seals itself, or maybe you don't notice it, but I would think this might have something to do with it. I remember using CRC to find leaks in manifolds, and you could hear a rpm change when you sprayed on a leak.
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bradleymaynar
Guest
Okay, read this dusty thread and only once did someone talk about voltage issues. Typically my 1100 is very finicky at temps below 50. Use the choke and it fires right up but I have to goose the throttle to keep it running. The blowing into the vent tubes isn't much different than putting the bike on prime, only a little quicker.
HOWEVER, when I replaced the old (4 years) battery, the bike fired superbly everytime. I guess what should be kept in mind here is that when you turn the key, a whole lot of lights come on before the bike is running. Therefore the power is reduced to the one area you need it most upon start, the coils. I've been amazed at what a simple fix a new battery can be when the bike starts to "act up" in the morning. And, as always, it's better to start cheap and easy then to tear it down to fix a simple thing. My .02.
Brad bk
HOWEVER, when I replaced the old (4 years) battery, the bike fired superbly everytime. I guess what should be kept in mind here is that when you turn the key, a whole lot of lights come on before the bike is running. Therefore the power is reduced to the one area you need it most upon start, the coils. I've been amazed at what a simple fix a new battery can be when the bike starts to "act up" in the morning. And, as always, it's better to start cheap and easy then to tear it down to fix a simple thing. My .02.
Brad bk
Steve
GS Whisperer
Well, ... sort of, ... amost, ... not really.
PRIme will fill the float bowls before trying to start the engine to assure that they have the proper amount of gas in them. (You should not really need to use it very often if everything is working well and you ride the bike at least once a month.) Blowing into the vent tubes will pressurize the float bowls, forcing raw gas through all the jets, into the carb throat, making it a super-rich "choke" substitute. This might be necessary if your normal "choke" (enrichment) circuits are not working properly, but is such a pain to use, I would recommend just cleaning the carbs to fix the problem instead of constantly applying a 'band-aid'.
Yes, a new battery will do wonders to fix that situation, but you still have a huge current drain when you turn on the key. That is why I have installed a relay in the headlight circuit that opens the circuit when the starter button is pressed so the headlight is not on while cranking the bike.
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bradleymaynar
Guest
Well, ... sort of, ... amost, ... not really.
PRIme will fill the float bowls before trying to start the engine to assure that they have the proper amount of gas in them. (You should not really need to use it very often if everything is working well and you ride the bike at least once a month.) Blowing into the vent tubes will pressurize the float bowls, forcing raw gas through all the jets, into the carb throat, making it a super-rich "choke" substitute. This might be necessary if your normal "choke" (enrichment) circuits are not working properly, but is such a pain to use, I would recommend just cleaning the carbs to fix the problem instead of constantly applying a 'band-aid'.
Yes, a new battery will do wonders to fix that situation, but you still have a huge current drain when you turn on the key. That is why I have installed a relay in the headlight circuit that opens the circuit when the starter button is pressed so the headlight is not on while cranking the bike.
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Thanks for the clarification on both points Steve.
Brad bk
Steve
GS Whisperer
Thanks for the clarification on both points Steve.
Brad bk
No problem. It has amazed and amused me to see how many times someone will post "just blow into the vent tubes to start it". On any of the GS bikes that I either have in my garage or have worked on, it's quite an ordeal just to get to the tubes, let alone get my mouth close enough to blow on them.
Once you realize that you are doing that because the carbs are not working properly, it just makes sense to pull the carbs and clean them. Yeah, it may be a pain pulling your carbs due to a stock airbox, but add up all the times you are being inconvenienced to blow on your vent tubes and compare that to the one time you will have to pull the carbs for cleaning.
On the electrical side of the post, most of the other bikes I have ever had would either cut the headlight off when using the starter or use some other method of delaying the headlight until the engine was running. I was surprised to find that the GS did not have this feature, in spite of all its other advancements and niceties.
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almarconi
Guest
My GS has an on/off switch for the headlight. I usually turn it off when I am starting the bike.
Steve
GS Whisperer
Yeah, but they started phasing that out with some of the '80 models and discontinued it completely with the '81 models.
With some of the '81 models, you could still file away the locking tab and still have a working switch, but the left handgrip housing was completely changed for '82.
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