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Blowing regulators. Suzuki GS450 1982

  • Thread starter Thread starter GmanGS450
  • Start date Start date
Okay fine, Ill use the advice and purchase the series regulator, the Polaris one.

Thanks for all the help guys, After this problem is fixed I will make a build thread and show the bike off.

G-man
 
Purchased the Polaris SCH775 for 83$ from a shop here in MN, installed it with a small 45mm computer fan mounted on the top, wired into the ignition.
I have the regulator (+) output split in half, half going through a fuse to battery for charge circuit. Other half going to before the ignition fused.

I realize that it is all on the same NODE of the battery positive but with the 2 fuses Iam confident the battery is protected enough.

After taking it out on a few ride the regulator did not get hot to the tough like the last few did right away. The voltage at first was 14.9v but after a short break in it does not go over 14.6V!!!!!!! At idle its sitting at 13.5v's too!!!! PROBLEM SOLVED.

Highly recommend this upgrade.

I did not take any pictures though. :!: But the next time the tank is off I will snap a few photo's and post them here. Thanks for all the help guys.
 
Steve said:
Good catch, Jim, I completely missed that one. :oops:.
Click to expand...

I've always wondered about the ignition switch circuit on my GS750E. Looking at the nice colored wiring diagram on BikeCliff's website of the GS750 (16-valve) bikes, here's what I keep thinking: say the red or orange wire running up to the ignition switch should short to ground. If the battery is supply the major portion of the current, I think the main 15A fuse would blow.

But if the R/R was supplying most of the current, it would just keep on a cooking as that power source does not go through a fuse.

Am I reading that diagram correctly? :confused:
 
pdqford said:
I've always wondered about the ignition switch circuit on my GS750E. Looking at the nice colored wiring diagram on BikeCliff's website of the GS750 (16-valve) bikes, here's what I keep thinking: say the red or orange wire running up to the ignition switch should short to ground. If the battery is supply the major portion of the current, I think the main 15A fuse would blow.

But if the R/R was supplying most of the current, it would just keep on a cooking as that power source does not go through a fuse.

Am I reading that diagram correctly? :confused:
Click to expand...

Yes, but the stator and R/R can only supply 15A no matter how high the RPM is. The magnetics of the rotor basically limit the total power output to 15 Amps so there is no reason to fuse the R/R separately..
 
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