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bog down on first gear take off

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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hi, 1980 GS450L, bile runs great and all, not noisy or smokey or anything, has 22K miles on odometer, but it bogs down on first gear normal take off and has been getting worse over the months since i first got the bike last summer, it wont die on take off but knocks RPm down quite a bit almost killing engine and if you try to take off like you are going to ride a wheelie then it will kill engine quick, but i dont ride the bike like that heck i dont evne let it go much over 3k RPM ever, does anyone know what might be causing this ? and everyonce in a while like on cruising days once or twice it will backfire pop out the carb i think, its not doing it out the exhaust,

i removed top of air cleane rbox before winter came and all it has in the box is a black spongy soft thin filter thingy, and two plastic grilles i think one white and other black, shouldnt there be an actual filter ?? also how do i know if valve adjustment needs to be done on the bike ?


im running the bike right now its almost middle of december . i want to keep the carbs wet, it fired right up after second try with choke all way on/shut, it decided to get up to about 40 degrees out today!@



thanks for anything
 
My 400 has the same filter and it should work well as long as its clean but oily. These filters are very inexpensive to replace so consider yourself lucky. :)

There isn't any way to tell if the valves need to be adjusted without asking the old owner. I always go in and set them when I buy a bike just to make sure things are in good shape.

If your bike is bogging down with high RPMs you may be running out of fuel. When my bike does this I switch the petcock setting to PRIME. If the bike runs better in this position you need to check the fuel line, vacuum line, and the petcock itself.

Keep on riding, Steve
 
A backfire through the carbs usually means too lean. Check for a vacuum leak especially at the carb boots ( the rubber between carb and engine).

You rarely get over 3k. That poor GS. Open it up and let it scream. The good power doesn't come in til about 6500 and goes on through 9000. Let your ride have some fur too. :lol:
 
kyle said:
You rarely get over 3k. That poor GS. Open it up and let it scream. The good power doesn't come in til about 6500 and goes on through 9000. Let your ride have some fur too
Click to expand...

Kyle,
The hair on the back of my neck stood up when I read that. Look up all the posts made by our buddy Fast68 and you'll soon realize why.
 
Jeckler said:
kyle said:
You rarely get over 3k. That poor GS. Open it up and let it scream. The good power doesn't come in til about 6500 and goes on through 9000. Let your ride have some fur too
Click to expand...

Kyle,
The hair on the back of my neck stood up when I read that. Look up all the posts made by our buddy Fast68 and you'll soon realize why.
Click to expand...

So you remember too! :?
 
Oh boy ..., I cant believe that I opend that can of worms again.

I didnt remember but after a brief search I felt so bad. :cry: I am sorry.

Can you forgive me.
 
Could be carb synching. Synching a two cylinder can be done without guages. You should have a throttle stop for overall idle an an individual adjuster on one of the carbs. Unplug the spark plug on the cylinder with the individual adjuster. Turn the throttle stop up so it will idle on the one firing cylinder. Set the idle with the throttle stop to an rpm and remember that rpm. Now stop the engine and plug the other cylinder back up. Now pull the wire off the plug of the cylinder you just set the idle on. Turn the individual adjuster up high enough to get the engine to run on one cylinder. Then use the adjuster to set the idle the same as the first cylinder. As you're doing this, if you have access to them, set the mixture screws for the smoothest idle you can get.

Could also be leaks around the manifolds as well. Valve adjustments need to be done at about 5,000 mile intervals.
 
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