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Boiled my battery dry!

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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I am still working to resurrect a 1982 GS1100G that was stored for 10 years. It runs strong, but then begins to die during running, cuts out during acceleration, but gains speed during light throttle twist. It just died a block from home, all the lights, dash and engine. No response. Walked home, brought back work vehicle, jumped it and it started right away. Rode home and it died turning in the drive.

I am checking all connections, pull apart and reset all plug-ins, and shooting them with tuner spray.

I looked in the battery cells and saw the top of the plates in all cells. It seemed totally dry. It was a new battery 5 months ago at start of cleanup work. I refilled it and am charging it. Probably will need another new one.

Any thoughts? Maybe the rectifier?/regulator?
 
Re: Boiled my battery dry!

Are you saying you bought a new battery 5 months ago and have not checked the water since installing it? :-) :-)

Earl

phillsaska said:
I looked in the battery cells and saw the top of the plates in all cells. It seemed totally dry. It was a new battery 5 months ago at start of cleanup work. I refilled it and am charging it. Probably will need another new one.

Any thoughts? Maybe the rectifier?/regulator?
Click to expand...
 
battery fried

battery fried

A couple days after installing, I topped the cells with the remaining electrolyte. I ran it down several times during attempts at starting during carburater work. But it was holding a good charge. I may not have been getting a charge at any time. And, now that it runs good enough to be road tested, it isn't holding a charge and seems to have the same problem as posting "Help!!! My 81 GS850 Just Died!" by Rick Patterson on Jan. 23, 2004.

Thank you for asking.
Phill
 
Re: battery fried

Re: battery fried

Do you have a 1 or 2 amp battery charger?

Will the battery charge and hold a voltage level of at leat 12.7 if charged on the battery charger?

Do you have a multimeter?

Your charging problem is either the battery, stator, regulator/rectifier, or the wiring.

One thing at a time. Can you charge the battery and do you have a meter?

Earl


phillsaska said:
A couple days after installing, I topped the cells with the remaining electrolyte. I ran it down several times during attempts at starting during carburater work. But it was holding a good charge. I may not have been getting a charge at any time. And, now that it runs good enough to be road tested, it isn't holding a charge and seems to have the same problem as posting "Help!!! My 81 GS850 Just Died!" by Rick Patterson on Jan. 23, 2004.

Thank you for asking.
Phill
Click to expand...
 
If your battery is being boiled dry it's probably due to an over-voltage from your R/R. Run the bike at 5000 RPM an check the voltage at the battery terminals. If you get more than 14.9 volts then you need a new R/R. My friend's bike get 17 volts at the treminals - not enough to cause the main fuse to blow, but enough to boil his battery acid away on a regular basis.
 
If I need a R/R, will other bike R/R work? Such as Suzuki 1000 or 750? I see two or more pages of R/R's listed on EBay. What would work?
Thank everyone for their input.
Phill
 
Thank you all, very much

Thank you all, very much

I discovered why the battery went. I decided to follow everyone's advice about checking connections. I had replaced the starter solonoid a couple months ago and discovered yesterday that I had failed to see the ground wire from the rectifier/regulator hanging down under all the black area under the battery. NO GROUND! Used the battery completely to useless lead and plastic.

Now, new battery, cleaned and bolted R/R ground. Wow, it starts instanly.

Am waiting for the rain to stop so I can road test. I have had this bike since last fall and haven't been able to get past the 1 mile marker down the road.
 
Yes, other Suzuki GS one piece RRs will work. So will Honda CX RRs and many more

Steve
 
I'd still check the r/r.

With the r/r removed from the bike, fins pointing up and terminals facing you, the terminals from left to right will be A, B, C, D, and E.
Negative probe on A and positive on B you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on C you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on D you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on E you should get 50-70 ohms.

Then switch the negative probe to terminal B and place the positive probe on A, C, then D, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to C and positive to A, B, then D, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to D and positive to A, B, then C, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to E, positive to A, B, C, and D should give no reading.
 
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