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Bore kits: cost and mod considerations?

niclpnut

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
Considering an upgrade to a bore kit for my 83 1100E.

I'm going to be taking the head and cylinders off for a new base gasket, and a few other misc fixes.

For sure at a minimum, I'd like to install new rings, and valve seals, however I've been considering a bore kit.

Question is, what is the most popular size for street mod upgrade, that I can install with no to minimal modification to anything other than the cylinders?

If I get into a new kit will I be needing to change or modify the head and or components?

I've been pricing kits at around $400-500 depending.

What would an avg price for the cylinder machining be? I don't have shops around here that I'd be comfortable working with, so would have to have it sent off.

Thanks,

Nic
 
What would an avg price for the cylinder machining be? I don't have shops around here that I'd be comfortable working with, so would have to have it sent off.

Thanks,

Nic

I paid $140.00 at a Boat and Marine machine shop for the last one.
Everyone else wanted $240.00 :eek: :eek:
OUTRAGEOUS!!!
I can get a V-8 automotive engine done for that much!

The common over-bore would be an 1166cc.


Daniel
 
The best cylinder boring is here: $120.00 * http://www.aperaceparts.com/machining.html

*$190.00 WITHOUT Piston purchase.

Just clarifying... :-\\\
Truth in advertising and all that stuff.
scared2.gif



Daniel
 
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These "while your at its" always seem tempting, but depending on how much money you have set aside for this, you might want to consider putting that "extra" money into suspension, brakes and tires instead.
Don't order rings until you've measured the old ones and determined they're worn - there's a good chance they're just fine.
Replacing good parts with new parts for the heck of it will yield, if anything, minimal gain.
 
I did an 1166, 10.25 to 1 compression, Web .348 lift cams, a MILDLY ported head with STOCK valves & NO valve job (he ran out of money), with 36 RS Mikunis that makes 140 at the rear wheel & runs 9.30s at more than 145 in the quarter with a slick, wheelie bar, & air shifter. I would put that motor in my sreet bike & ride it cross country without worry! If he had 300 more I could've gotten it to 150 at the rear wheel! Ray.
 
These "while your at its" always seem tempting, but depending on how much money you have set aside for this, you might want to consider putting that "extra" money into suspension, brakes and tires instead.
Don't order rings until you've measured the old ones and determined they're worn - there's a good chance they're just fine.
Replacing good parts with new parts for the heck of it will yield, if anything, minimal gain.


I agree. I'm in the initial stages of planning the rehab, and trying to find cost effective upgrades "if" they are warranted and justfied in a performance and resale viewpoint.

Compression/leakdown tests and some oil burning seems to warrant a top end freshen up, but to what extent I haven't determined.

Nic
 
*$190.00 WITHOUT Piston purchase.

Just clarifying... :-\\\
Truth in advertising and all that stuff.
scared2.gif



Daniel

Read it again, If you send us your block and purchase an 1168 kit, which was what the OP was asking about, the boring is $120.00
 
Considering an upgrade to a bore kit for my 83 1100E.
I've been pricing kits at around $400-500 depending.
What would an avg price for the cylinder machining be? I don't have shops around here that I'd be comfortable working with, so would have to have it sent off.

Thanks,

Nic

So, if he were to get one of these kits, as he stated, and sent his cylinder to you, he would be charged $120?
Or, would he have to pay $100-200 more to save the $70.00?

Just reading...

Daniel
 
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I'm sorry, I thought thought the machining prices were pretty clear. If the guy sends his block in like many people do, and orders an 1168 kit to go into it, he would be charged the price of the kit plus $120.00 for boring and honing to fit. However, if he gets an e-bay kit, etc and sends it along with his block, He pays $189.00. Almost no one does that.
 
you can go to 1229cc without boring the cases. You need to either re-sleeve your 1100 cylinders or get 1150 cylinders and have the 1150 cylinder bored to size. Then you need 18mm pin 77mm pistons.

I would've gone that route but a used 1166 kit came along for a good price.
 
you can go to 1229cc without boring the cases. You need to either re-sleeve your 1100 cylinders or get 1150 cylinders and have the 1150 cylinder bored to size. Then you need 18mm pin 77mm pistons.

I would've gone that route but a used 1166 kit came along for a good price.
I had to bore my cases going 1229
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WISE...rcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cb7e92075

this guy seems cheaper than most and can get 1166 eveb though this is a 1135 kit


Yeah Pos.

I saw those kits. I haven't really established a good relationship with a machine shop I really trust around me, I'd probably source the work out to a forum member.

And as Big Jay said, I could get a bit of a discount on machine work if I was to purchase a kit from the same place that does the work.
 
I haven't sent a 1260 kit out Bill. The WORST I have had to do with ONE 1150 block going into 1100 cases was a little cleanup with a Dremel. Ray.
 
I haven't sent a 1260 kit out Bill. The WORST I have had to do with ONE 1150 block going into 1100 cases was a little cleanup with a Dremel. Ray.
I'm sorry Ray, I thought that was the one you offered to sell me and it turned out to be a 1260 with the 18mm pins.

As Ray stated you do have to clean the block a bit to get the block in. Not alot as seen in the pictures.
Or ONE or two because mine was not a good fit at all hence the machining.
:D
 
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I still like my 1327... Sorry guys, I have been reading a lot and not participating, so I thought I would throw in the 2 pennies...
Curt
 
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