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Brake light...

  • Thread starter Thread starter Tom550
  • Start date Start date
T

Tom550

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So I guess suzuki had the bright idea of making the brake light active by using a piece of plastic with a piece of copper attached to it? Probably the worst idea ever haha. So how would I go about fixing this? It's so hard to calibrate it to get consistent brake lights. I just took it out and use the rear brakes for the light.
 
That switch assembly actually works quite well, when it's clean and lubricated.

If your assembly has deteriorated, you can get a new one for a few bucks or replace the banjo bolt at the master cylinder with a pressure switch.

Personally, I prefer the mechanical one, as it can be set to turn the lights on before actually applying the brakes. That fraction of a second might make a difference some time, and it's easier to flash your light without slowing the bike at other times.

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There are lots of threads about this, and a repair guide on BassCliff's site. I got my replacement at Cycle Recycle for about $9 but I was ordering some other parts and accessories at the same time so the shipping added was negligible. If your clutch switch is already bypassed I believe that is the same part. Z1 sells some pressure-activated banjo bolts which you can use instead if you simply abhor this design. When new they work pretty well - usually they're just worn out after 30 years.

http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/brake_light_switches.htm
 
Thanks for the quick replies. I'll just buy a new one, didn't even realize they would sell it. Sweet. Thanks guys.
 
Tom550 said:
So I guess suzuki had the bright idea of making the brake light active by using a piece of plastic with a piece of copper attached to it? Probably the worst idea ever haha. So how would I go about fixing this? It's so hard to calibrate it to get consistent brake lights. I just took it out and use the rear brakes for the light.
Click to expand...

Count me in for the banjo bolt hydraulic one.

I played with the mechanical one to no end ... could never get it to work consistently.
I think part of the problem can be slight wear/slop at the pivot point of the brake lever.

The banjo one worked perfectly first time, every time ... no adjustment needed, it just works ... and perfectly.

I'll agree that the hydraulic one won't engage until there is a bit of pressure in the line, so that you can't flash using the front brakes without some slowing. I can and do still flash them using the rear though.

As far as reaction time, I disagree that it changes noticeably using the banjo switch. you might gain a millisecond or two (though depending on how well the switches make contact, the mechanical one may have more bounce and take longer to make) but the time to make is going to be totally swamped by how long the bulb takes to light and the reaction time of the following driver.

On the other hand, using LEDs would be worth it for the reaction time though ...
 
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