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Brake lines

Anyone using the Earl's banjo fittings?

I recently swapped handle bars out (replace the buck horns with flat bars on the 550) and
I need to shorten the brake line. I was thinking to chop some off and put on the screw on fitting.

Hose ends are reusable, but you will want new "olives" (ferrules).

Cutting the hose can be done with a sharp wood chisel. Amazing but true.:cool:
 
Brake lock-up?

Brake lock-up?

Has anyone here ever experienced the brake lock-up mentioned below? I've never heard of this before. I occasionally pin my speedometer at it's measly 85mph, and a front brake lock-up could be fatal.

'82 1100e
 
Lock-up

Lock-up

Has anyone here ever experienced the brake lock-up mentioned below? I've never heard of this before. I occasionally pin my speedometer at it's measly 85mph, and a front brake lock-up could be fatal.

'82 1100e

Unless you grab a hand-full of brake, I wouldn't suspect such a thing to happen. I could be wrong but I never had that problem at speed...didn't think about it either.


Ed
 
It's just plain dumb to run the old rubber lines, unless you are dirt poor or ignorant and don't know any better. Spend the money, and take care of your 32 year old motorcycle. The old lines are going to have a layer of scum inside which will contaminate the brake fluid. Nothing good comes from that.
 
Change That Brake Line! (Only a suggestion of course)

Change That Brake Line! (Only a suggestion of course)

Has anyone here ever experienced the brake lock-up mentioned below? I've never heard of this before. I occasionally pin my speedometer at it's measly 85mph, and a front brake lock-up could be fatal.

'82 1100e

It's just plain dumb to run the old rubber lines, unless you are dirt poor or ignorant and don't know any better. Spend the money, and take care of your 32 year old motorcycle. The old lines are going to have a layer of scum inside which will contaminate the brake fluid. Nothing good comes from that.

Rob S.

I'm changing my single-disc line...when you take your's apart, you'll be surprised to see the condition it's in. I couldn't believe I was riding my bike with hardly any fluid.

I'm waiting patiently on parts and look forward to my next ride!


Ed
 
Has anyone here actually cut open a brake hose and taken a picture or two of this scum that is supposed to exist? Link to a picture perhaps?
 
Cut It!

Cut It!

Has anyone here actually cut open a brake hose and taken a picture or two of this scum that is supposed to exist? Link to a picture perhaps?

I have mine in front of me...but then I have to cut it...then take a picture...then upload it on PB...then reply to this thread...darn, that's alot of work!


Ed
 
Has anyone here actually cut open a brake hose and taken a picture or two of this scum that is supposed to exist? Link to a picture perhaps?

I'm not sure what you are driving at GSX but the choice between an easy preventative maintenance step of replacing 30 year old brake lines or brakes locking up is an easy one.
 
Has anyone here actually cut open a brake hose and taken a picture or two of this scum that is supposed to exist? Link to a picture perhaps?

The brake fluid turns brown and coagulates as it absorbs water. About 8/10 32 year old bikes have developed this scum at some point in it's life. Sadly, people think they can get rid of this crap by a simple fluid flush. At best the crud will contaminate the new fluid. At worst, the brake will lock up and dump you on your head. The choice is yours.



 
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Convinced!

Convinced!

I'm convinced - I'm going to steel lines.

What is that yummy-looking picture of below?

Inside the steel-braided exterior, there's still rubber, right? It just can't expand because of the steel exterior?
 
I'm convinced - I'm going to steel lines.

What is that yummy-looking picture of below?

Inside the steel-braided exterior, there's still rubber, right? It just can't expand because of the steel exterior?

Teflon covered with a stainless steel braided covering. Crud doesn't like to stick to teflon.
 
My line does not look as bad as Nessism...but I'm glad I'm changing it.






Ed
 
The other thing you not getting, its that the return port or compensation port is tiny, 1/2 mm or so in diameter. When it clogs, brake fluid cannot return from the caliper to the master cylinder to release the brakes. Whatever fluid is in the caliper stays there. Now add heat. Everything expands with heat, brake fluid is no exception. So a tiny bit of brake drag makes a tiny bit of heat, wihich expands the brake fluid a tiny bit, now the brakes are dragging a little bit more making a little bit more heat. The brake gets tighter and tighter, making more and more heat. More brake drag makes more heat, whih makes more brake drag. Simple concept. The end result is a locked wheel and a busted ass. This can even happen if you haven't touched the brake at all.
Rust particles, or the brown sugar looking stuff that brake fluid turns into after decades in a water contaminated brake system, either one can block this tiny port. Keep the brakes clean inside.

Do you feel lucky?
 
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My brakelines have the date on it. The bike is from 84 and the brakelines are from 82. And I just bought it like this. Always maintained by the dealer and I believe the old man I bought it from.. Nice clean brake fluid but 32 year old brakelines. So I know what I am changing this winter.
I prefer changing brake fluid every year so mine never gets dirty really. And even if it didn't get dirty it requires changing because it attracts water. And most of it will collect around the caliper pistons and cause corrosion .
 
I guess it's time I got back to my brake job. I picked up an entire system from an 1100, slotted rotors, bigger pads, etc. Disassembled & bead-blasted and painted everything. Bought rebuild kits for the whole system, along with new pads. All I need to get is new lines. It's all been in a box for more than a year. I work too much.
 
I keep reading about braided steel brake lines. That they perform better (don't expand) AND look better. That's a pretty convincing argument in my book.

However, my stock ones ('82 1100e) work fine and look good (the engine and headers are also black). I've only had her for 500 miles now, and that's after a 24-year hiatus, so I haven't really gotten into any situations where I needed to grab (& step on) a lot of brakes.

Should I spend my money elsewhere?

Hi

The standard brakelines are great when they are new. No upgrade required. But when they are old and they hav't been replaced yet you are riding with the risk of ending up without brakes or a leak when you don't want one. And you know what brake fluid will do to your bike?
The standard brakelines will even be more expensive so why not go for the braided steel.
 
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