well looks like I bought a 2004 ZZR 1200 kawabungy! I was thinking of using the http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm method in breaking it in . Any one know anybody who used this method? any opinions on it? thanks skip
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breaking in a new bike
- Thread starter skip
- Start date
W
wiks10
Guest
Hi,
I have too read this and wondered. But look at the facts motorcycle mfr's have millions of dollars invested in development and reasearch. They know what best for the engine not this guy. I for one follow the mfr recomended breakin. Your new bike cost too much money not to listen to the experts!
Chris
I have too read this and wondered. But look at the facts motorcycle mfr's have millions of dollars invested in development and reasearch. They know what best for the engine not this guy. I for one follow the mfr recomended breakin. Your new bike cost too much money not to listen to the experts!
Chris
I would follow the makers instructions. To go further, I've often wondered if the makers oil should be drained and replaced for the first 500 miles with straight 30 wt.
I know engine rebuilders such as Vance and Hines say to break in a newly rebuilt motor with 30 wt. I don't know why this logic would be any different for a new bike. I haven't heard of new owners doing this though, either bikes or cars.
On my rebuild, I used 30 wt for about 500 miles, then changed to 10/40, rode another 500 and changed the 10/40 again.
I know engine rebuilders such as Vance and Hines say to break in a newly rebuilt motor with 30 wt. I don't know why this logic would be any different for a new bike. I haven't heard of new owners doing this though, either bikes or cars.
On my rebuild, I used 30 wt for about 500 miles, then changed to 10/40, rode another 500 and changed the 10/40 again.
A
Anonymous
Guest
break in
break in
Dont do the beat your motor to death break'in as this guy says there are more parts involved in the break in proccess than just the rings, new wrist pins do not like to be spun at high revs when new unless they are needle bearing type, valve guides un less clearenced for racing do not like to be reved high un til they have worn in, as well as the seat and valve faces, remeber that there will always be machineing differences even with CNC witch mainly means that the parts being made on that machine are with in tolerence part after part and really doesn't mean that each part is machined better than say a hand machined one off part that has been checked and rechecked, as well as temp stablized, with CNC if one part is made off specs a hundred parts will follow, then you have the gears witch do need to seat in, also keep in mind that metals will tend to want to thermaly settle, as far as V&H using 30 weight oil I think is ok in warm weather and not cold weather, you need to have good flow, I would change my oil at 250 miles do to both metal and clutch ficton material being suspened in the oil, I have taken apart quite a few engines that where low miles for warranty purposes and even at 10,000 miles still had hatch marks in the cylinders in the piston travel area
break in
Dont do the beat your motor to death break'in as this guy says there are more parts involved in the break in proccess than just the rings, new wrist pins do not like to be spun at high revs when new unless they are needle bearing type, valve guides un less clearenced for racing do not like to be reved high un til they have worn in, as well as the seat and valve faces, remeber that there will always be machineing differences even with CNC witch mainly means that the parts being made on that machine are with in tolerence part after part and really doesn't mean that each part is machined better than say a hand machined one off part that has been checked and rechecked, as well as temp stablized, with CNC if one part is made off specs a hundred parts will follow, then you have the gears witch do need to seat in, also keep in mind that metals will tend to want to thermaly settle, as far as V&H using 30 weight oil I think is ok in warm weather and not cold weather, you need to have good flow, I would change my oil at 250 miles do to both metal and clutch ficton material being suspened in the oil, I have taken apart quite a few engines that where low miles for warranty purposes and even at 10,000 miles still had hatch marks in the cylinders in the piston travel area
L
lhanscom
Guest
Here's a thought; I don't think it matters what you do. I've heard a ton of stories from both sides of this, and either way seems to work. If you break it in one way, you may gain 1hp, or you may lose 1hp, but they're too many other variables to prove that the gain or loss came from the break in procedure. It's passible that you may put some wear on some component by doing it one way or the other, but again, it may have had to do with something else too, and you may have had damage caused either way. I think varied rpm and load are important, but beyond that engines seem to be able to hold they're own regardless of how you break them in.
I should also say that I have never had to do this, so I may just be talking out my arse.
I should also say that I have never had to do this, so I may just be talking out my arse.
G
Guy
Guest
I think his theory makes a lot of sense, though I wouldn't want to redline a newly rebuilt engine. Since the rebore on the GS 1000 500 miles ago I've been riding it normally but kept it to 5000rpm for the first 300 miles and I'm up to about 6500rpm right now. I dumped the oil and filter at 200 miles and will change it again at 1000 miles. Compression right now is 175psi on all cylinders, so the rings must have bedded in ok.
W
wiks10
Guest
His therory makes no sense. Im sure honda and all the other mfr's go through hundreds of mule engines and submit them to every stress. Therfore why go with a guy who does not have the resources or extensive knowledge of the makers themselves. I know one thing if i was buying a used car I would not buy it from a rental car company because we all abuse rental cars. Same thing hold here; proper break in will help "All the components" not just the pistons.
Chris
Chris
G
Guy
Guest
wiks10 said:His therory makes no sense.
Chris
His basic theory makes sense to me. I'm not advocating running a new motor into the ground, but pussyfooting along a motorway without loading the engine WILL glaze the bores and reduce compression. It needs to be approached with a bit of common sense. Obviously manufacturers will err on the side of caution with their advice: You have no comeback if you glaze the bores and reduce the BHP of the engine by being extra careful, it's a bit hard to prove. But you will if they advise you to hammer the bike from day one and you drop a valve while it's under warranty.
Think about it.
W
wiks10
Guest
Mfr's break in steps are not pussyfooting. Just keep rev's under certain rpm for x amount of miles. dont drive at same speeed....etc..
I folllowed the breakin for my 1995 Z28 and my 2003 Subaru WRX and believe me they were every bit as fast as any I came up against and I knew it was done the right way.
Chris[/quote]
I folllowed the breakin for my 1995 Z28 and my 2003 Subaru WRX and believe me they were every bit as fast as any I came up against and I knew it was done the right way.
Chris[/quote]
A
Anonymous
Guest
I know from experience that a diesel thrashed from new is better all round than one that has been "run in". It has more power, uses less oil and lasts longer. They rely on compression far more than a gasoline engine so it makes sense to me.
Most damage to engines is done at high load without high revs, the bearings are under max. stress but have less than max. oil pressure or flow. There is a manufacturers label on one of our trucks that instructs the operator to set the idle at 1250 rpms in low temps. That is halfway to the redline on that engine! BUT it ensures adequate oil pressure whilst the oil is cold.
I am big boring my 1100 and will have no problem using motoman's method on the fresh pistons and cylinders.
Unless your dealer is following you around he will never know. Do the initial oil change yourself and he will be non the wiser.
The experts once said the earth was flat.
Each to their own but that's my 2c worth.
Most damage to engines is done at high load without high revs, the bearings are under max. stress but have less than max. oil pressure or flow. There is a manufacturers label on one of our trucks that instructs the operator to set the idle at 1250 rpms in low temps. That is halfway to the redline on that engine! BUT it ensures adequate oil pressure whilst the oil is cold.
I am big boring my 1100 and will have no problem using motoman's method on the fresh pistons and cylinders.
Unless your dealer is following you around he will never know. Do the initial oil change yourself and he will be non the wiser.
The experts once said the earth was flat.
Each to their own but that's my 2c worth.
W
wiks10
Guest
Dont think that your warranty will be covered if it was determined that you did not follow the stated break in procedures. I worked for a dealership for a few years and when a mechanic found neglengence on the owners part warranty claims were refused.
Chris
Chris
G
gspaul
Guest
OK to put this in to simple terms!
Try to stay off the freeways .
do not baby the motor.
If you do you will use oil, you will be down on power.
Lots of gear changing .
Do not take it to the redline till over 1000k.
Change the oil at 500 & 1000.
Bottom line ,ride as you would anyway.
The factorys tell you otherwise just in case,and have done for as long as I can remember.
And I'm old.
A good few of my mates had to rebore new thier bikes 1000k out because of oil/ power.
Try to stay off the freeways .
do not baby the motor.
If you do you will use oil, you will be down on power.
Lots of gear changing .
Do not take it to the redline till over 1000k.
Change the oil at 500 & 1000.
Bottom line ,ride as you would anyway.
The factorys tell you otherwise just in case,and have done for as long as I can remember.
And I'm old.
A good few of my mates had to rebore new thier bikes 1000k out because of oil/ power.
KGB
Forum Sage
The guy who built my 1000 2V motor said it was the amount of throttle, not just rpm's. No more than 1/2 throttle for the first 100-200 miles.
Then increase throttle amount to load the motor.
Nothing over 5K for this time, and again amount of throttle.
Dumped the oil, adjusted the valves and re-tourqued the head.
Been runing great ever since...about 6-8 years and about 25K miles.
Now if I can just get the electrics :twisted: fixed.......
Then increase throttle amount to load the motor.
Nothing over 5K for this time, and again amount of throttle.
Dumped the oil, adjusted the valves and re-tourqued the head.
Been runing great ever since...about 6-8 years and about 25K miles.
Now if I can just get the electrics :twisted: fixed.......
RacingJake
Forum Sage
Take her to the track, she'll love you for it. You know you're going to do it sooner or later :twisted:
These are fast motorcycles not lawn mowers 8O
These are fast motorcycles not lawn mowers 8O
S
SqDancerLynn1
Guest
Don't be afraid to use engine braking also
S
saaz
Guest
People must e reading a different article to me, as I don't think it says thrash the motor. What you need to do is approximtae proper heat cycling of the motor so that you don't overheat the bits wearing in, or under work the piston rings wearing in.
A recent article in a motorcycle mag here reports on the journasist (Kevin Ash) talking to castrol at their UK oil reserch centre. Basically don't take it too easy, but don't thrash too early. For a large bike normal riding seems the best way to go, but I am afraid you will have to give it large throttle openings and speed runds towards the 1,000km mark to finish the running in properly
Oil consumption and power may be adversely affected by either extreme. But then the bike will probably last way longer than you are going to keep it anyway....
I would think changing the oil a few times in the first thousand or so would be more important. And even castrol said don't use synthetic for the first 8,000kms.
A recent article in a motorcycle mag here reports on the journasist (Kevin Ash) talking to castrol at their UK oil reserch centre. Basically don't take it too easy, but don't thrash too early. For a large bike normal riding seems the best way to go, but I am afraid you will have to give it large throttle openings and speed runds towards the 1,000km mark to finish the running in properly
Oil consumption and power may be adversely affected by either extreme. But then the bike will probably last way longer than you are going to keep it anyway....
I would think changing the oil a few times in the first thousand or so would be more important. And even castrol said don't use synthetic for the first 8,000kms.
Skip,
I've never done the Moto Man break-in but it is very popular with the FJR guys. Check out FJR Owners and search for "break in"
Joe
I've never done the Moto Man break-in but it is very popular with the FJR guys. Check out FJR Owners and search for "break in"
Joe
B
Billy_Oliver880
Guest
I think the break-in for the engine should also include a 50 hp shot of nitrious. That would set the rings perfectly. :twisted:
A
Anonymous
Guest
I don't know too much about breaking in motors but I was watching American Chopper the other day and they put the bike on the Dyno before breaking in the motor and tore the motor to pieces in a matter of minutes.
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