Bringing a 1981 GS1100E back to life.

[astroboiler]

Hello all. First post here. I got this 1981 gs1100e for a song and I'd like to document the rebuild in this thread. This is my first project bike that I have owned (I've worked over some vintage bikes that belonged to friends) and I'm real excited to work through this thing.

Here's what I knew/had when I left the seller: the bike has been sitting for a long time and the fella that I bought it from never tried to get it running. My seller was told by his seller that it had been jumping time (more on that later). The intake boots had been plugged with rags, but the header was disconnected and the exhaust ports were not plugged on the engine. The bike came with a 4-1 exhaust with a Kerker muffler. Also installed was a Lockhart oil cooler. There are some 1" superbike bars haphazardly thrown on, so the front brake lever assembly and the clutch lever assembly do not fit, as they appear to fit only 7/8" bars. The VIN on the crankcase does not match the VIN on the neck, although the engine is also a 1981. Top end is marked 1074 or 1075 c.c. - I'm forgetting which right now.

Here's what I'm missing: carbs, airbox, starter, battery, keys, headlight, turn signals, right footpeg, starter cover, primary sprocket cover, controls and mirrors.

I've gotten her home, and since those exhaust ports had been exposed and unplugged, I pulled the engine, tore off the top end and all of my side covers. Overall, the engine was nearly dry - probably not more than a cup of oil that I could see. From visual inspections, I'd say I've uncovered some good things and some bad things (maybe not bad, just concerns). I took plenty of pictures of the teardown, and I will share these and my thoughts in another post/posts.

I've bought a starter motor and an APE cam chain tensioner. I'm now looking to find carbs and an airbox. Of course I'll be scouring the classifieds here, but if anybody out there happens to have these things to sell, let's make it hap'n cap'n. I'm also looking for a battery. I've always bought my moto batteries locally (Huntsville, AL) but if any of you could recommend a website where I might score a good deal, please let me know. I'll write up another post soon.

 

[Who Dat?]

First of all, welcome to the loony bin.

The VIN on the crankcase does not match the VIN on the neck, although the engine is also a 1981.

Don't worry about that, NONE of them match. Never have.

 

[GSXR7ED]

Hey! I have the same HF trailer!

Welcome and thanks for posting. Moar pics and narrative please!


Ed

 

[astroboiler]

First of all, welcome to the loony bin.



Don't worry about that, NONE of them match. Never have.

Good to know. Thank you.

 

[astroboiler]

Hey! I have the same HF trailer!

Welcome and thanks for posting. Moar pics and narrative please!


Ed

That trailer sure got the job done. More pics and part II of the story coming right up.

 

[astroboiler]

I got the bike home and into the garage. It has been in storage in the back of an auto mechanic's shop for some time, so it is filthy. I forget the exact value on the odometer, but IIRC it is ~26K miles. Here's the last picture I took before pulling the engine.

I went ahead and stuffed rags into the exhaust ports on the head and a rag into the starter hole. Most of the engine mounting hardware was about finger tight and the right footpeg is missing, which makes me think that the engine had just made its way back into the frame before some PO halted progress.

 

[Rob S.]

Just remember - world's quickest production motorcycle and Cycle World's "Best Superbike" 1981.

 

[astroboiler]

Just remember - world's quickest production motorcycle and Cycle World's "Best Superbike" 1981.

Thanks Rob!

I am trying to attach pictures to my posts, but I'm getting a message that I can only have 1 attachment per post. I know there must be another way, as I have seen other rebuild threads with multiple pictures per post. I have searched around for a solution, but at this point it will just be quicker for me to ask.

 

[Ecklund]

Just remember - world's quickest production motorcycle and Cycle World's "Best Superbike" 1981.

We just pretend the giant lunch box headlight makes its faster... somehow.

The unwelded crank and small end bearing seem to be an issue on some bikes, but I don't race mine so it will probably not implode.

Very good 'standard' type bike. Raised the bar for what was arguably the best mix of handling, power, quality and durability for the money. Remains a good solid performer.

Motor has never been open and with some minor mods it pulls very hard.

 

[Guest]

I always liked the "lunch box" headlight! Now that I've gotten back into riding, there are some things I would have looked for before dropping the hammer on mine. I just didn't realize that Suzuki made two essentially different model 1100s back in the early 80s. That's what I get for being a Kawasaki guy, I guess.

 

[rudeman]

Those first generation 1100Es were runners for sure. They did a lot of things well, best of all they just ran forever.

 

[Ecklund]

I always liked the "lunch box" headlight! Now that I've gotten back into riding, there are some things I would have looked for before dropping the hammer on mine. I just didn't realize that Suzuki made two essentially different model 1100s back in the early 80s. That's what I get for being a Kawasaki guy, I guess.

That mid 70s Z1 of yours has been on a lot of best looking bike ever lists. Never saw the block head bikes on those lists ever.

But it is unique in an odd say. I like the round headlight of the '82 and later bikes but do not like the tank/side panel 'integrated' look at all.

I've heard a lot of people way that you don't find vehicles, they find you. Not being a religious/superstitious person I discount that kind of sentiment. But what do I know; this '81 certainly found me and its turned out to be good bike in the end.

 

[astroboiler]

Engine out!



Spark plugs looked good. Valve cover next:


I mentioned in an earlier post that I had been told that this engine was jumping time. Well it looked to me like the cam chain tensioner had not been adjusted properly. The chain guides looked good and so did the cam sprockets.

 

[astroboiler]

Cylinder head off. Little dirty but the valves don't look burned up. I'm kinda kicking myself for not having done a leakdown test before getting into this thing, but oh well. I put in an order for the tappet adjustment driver and a little tube of Suzuki moly paste. I bought the paste with the intention of removing the valves and coating the stems like the service manual says to do, but I've just been told that it is not necessary. Opinions? Either way, I'll use my new handy dandy tappet driver to adjust the valve clearances after reassembling and timing the engine.



I forgot to take a picture of the block, but I observed what looked to be fresh cross-hatching in the cylinders. I guess I may be able to get away with not honing. Here's a pic of the pistons. In the bottom of the picture you can see the lines to the Lockhart oil cooler.



And here are the clutch, stator, and signal generator:







First major bummer of the project:



Looks like at one point the chain snapped and the primary sprocket whipped the chain through the side of the case. I'm guessing that the wires for that sensor just under the sprocket were severed at this point as well. What's that sensor do anyhow?

So that's where I'm at now. I have bought a starter motor, airbox, carbs, and an o-ring kit for the CV's. Next steps are to clean the engine up a bit, reassemble, re-time, change oil and filter, and adjust valves. I also need to have a key made so I can start dealing with the tank. I post an update with progress.

 

[Guest]

That sensor is for the digital gear indicator and neutral light.

 

[astroboiler]

That sensor is for the digital gear indicator and neutral light.

Thanks. That's kinda what I was thinking when I saw the pawl and six little contacts.

 

[Guest]

That sensor is common to many of the GS models. Whether you want to replace it is up to you of course. It's easy enough to cross-reference part numbers to find which other models used that part. If you choose to replace it, it's just a case of undoing the two screws and pulling it out. There's an O-ring fitted to the rear to provide an oil seal. Probably best to replace that.

 

[gearhead13]

Decent welds there. I'd like to show them to the guy at the machine shop who said he couldnt do a good job because of all the pop tops and beer cans in the aluminum

 

[Fjbj40]

Holy orange silicone batman! Looks like someone tried to silicone that cylinder head onto the barrels!

Good welders know how to weld, ****ty welders know how to make excuses.....very nice welds on the case.

 

[trevor]