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Broken Float Post

T

tatu

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
A friend of mine has bought an 850 that hasn't run since '86, I put some gas into the test tank and fired it up but it didn't run very well, I stripped the carbs, they were in a bit of a state.

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Everything was fine till I tried to take the float pin out even supporting it and the feebelist tap and the post broke, doh!
I didn't get many pictures that I wanted but I got these with my phone.
I JB welded it and drilled straight down, unfortunately the JB didn't hold but it was enough to get the drill down.

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A piece of stainless tig wire a bit slack in the hole so I kinked it a bit here and there, mixed up some fresh steel weld.

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glued and tapped it down

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Smeared and tapped the broken piece home.

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I hope that's done the job, I was told it would be fiddly and tricky and it was, all the pins were tight so I put a small flame from the blow torch and they came easily as they seem to be tight on the post that has the head on the float pin.
 
Very cool sir.

I was reading another post by a Brit a bit earlier. He had tried to get the pilot jet out and demolished the pilot jet post.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?225496-Pilot-Jet-tube-broke

There was some discussion as to how well JB Weld would hold up immersed in petrol (especially with ethanol in it now) and how well Steel Weld would hold aluminum or mazak or whatever the metal of the carbs is.

Greetings
 
I had seen that thread but it didn't mean much because there were no pictures.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the link, I did do a search before I started, I didn't see that thread. its a good way to do it.
 
Chris, when I repaired the float post on my Honda, I used a piece of brass welding rod chucked in a drill motor and 'lathed' down to fit the drilled holes with a small file.
 
rustybronco said:
Chris, when I repaired the float post on my Honda, I used a piece of brass welding rod chucked in a drill motor and 'lathed' down to fit the drilled holes with a small file.
Click to expand...

Another good option if the repair fails thanks, somewhere I have some thick brazing rods that would be ideal, I should've thought about the fix a bit more than just rushing in.
 
There appears to be nothing wrong with your methodology of repairing a broken float. :D
 
model shops sell stainless steel threaded rod in 2,3 and 4mm diameter. ideal for this kind of application
 
The carb rebuild tutorial linked in my signature tells you have to remove the float pin without busting off the post. Too late now, but hopefully someone in the future sees this thread and takes appropriate precautions.

floatpost.jpg


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I had not seen this, but in fact I supported the post by laying it in the slightly open jaws of my vise and tapping it a fine pin punch, even after the post was bust and I was still trying knock the pin out it wouldn't budge, only heat got it to move.
I will be putting the pins in the lathe and wet and dry the bulge off
 
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