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Broken Plug -

  • Thread starter Thread starter Montanaman
  • Start date Start date
M

Montanaman

Guest
It is indeed a bad day - I was changing spark plugs on my KZ, and the last one simply broke - the threads are left in the head - I hit it with PB Blaster about 10 minutes ago, and I'll try a little heat and a #5 easy out - wish me luck !

1.jpg
 
This is probably stating the obvious... but make sure your easy out doesn't break off the ground wire from the end of the plug threads. That would make a stinky problem immensely stinky. Good luck ,and go slowly and patiently.
 
It's not getting better - I let it soak for an hour, the #5 easy out grabbed nice, but no go - I tweaked it until I was flexing the easy out as much as I dared, and it didn't budge. I then adapted my 3/8" Makita cordless impact driver on it, and rattled away, and no go. Tomorrow I'll try to adapt a 1/2" air impact and see if it'll budge it -
2.jpg
 
It's hard to tell from your picture, but it looks like the entire threaded portion of the plug is still in the head, including the seat. The seat will seal the threads and keep any penetrating oil from getting to them.

You may have to pry the outer most part of the threads away from the head to allow oil to get into the threaded part. Unless you can break this seal you'll never get any lubricant into it. Take as much time as it takes, you definitely want to be patient with this.
 
First heat it up !! You could try a chisel to try and turn the threads OR If you have access to a dremel ? Cut a slot in the plug remains While operating a vacuum to catch derbs Be careful not to go into the threads
 
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You will need A LOT of heat because that much aluminum absorbs heat real fast. The thing is to get it as hot as you can so the head expands and helps release the hold.

Second, get a left threaded bolt thats just slightly bigger than the hole and see if you can kinda thread it in there and use a socket to turn it out.

What cylinder is it in?


And to add to what Lynn said...also be careful not to damage the flat area around the hole that the plug gasket seals to.
 
Tap the largest torx you can get into the thread portion they grip better than easy outs and will not shear off,you can then put a ratchet on the torx and work in and out gradually,this is a proven technique in the auto trade in the Uk,Good luck...
 
Hit it with the CP Imact wrench at 1/2 speed, then full bore, and the plug didn't move, and after a minute the #5 easy out broke the top off -

So the head is off, at the machine shop, and Mr. Kawasaki will get new gaskets & cam cover plugs, and new piston rings while we're in there.

The cylinders were in good shape, but about 1/3 of the ring was worn down and rounded just a little, so the cylinders are being lightly honed, and stock pistons put back in.

Imagine if I had ruined that head casting - the '82 Gpz was one year only design, they changed it in '83, and the '81 had Bosch FI ports cast into it's head, and it's the canadian bike to boot, with no us emissions ports in the head - I probably would have had to scoured Canada to find another head -

Expensive lesson - the next time you leave a plug in a head for 3 decades, and it's stuck, maybe run it a while and get it hot before you put the plug socket on it -
 
PAULJAC47 said:
Tap the largest torx you can get into the thread portion they grip better than easy outs and will not shear off,you can then put a ratchet on the torx and work in and out gradually,this is a proven technique in the auto trade in the Uk,Good luck...
Click to expand...

+1 on this, also an allen key hammered into it will do the same, the advantage is that the taper of the easyout doesn't push it harder into the walls of the thread.
 
tatu said:
+1 on this, also an allen key hammered into it will do the same, the advantage is that the taper of the easyout doesn't push it harder into the walls of the thread.
Click to expand...

hammering an allen key into it would have the same effect, worse even as you would distort the plug threads into a six point wedge ;)
 
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