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Broken valve cover bolt...

  • Thread starter Thread starter exzachtly1
  • Start date Start date
E

exzachtly1

Guest
Took off the valve cover for the fist time since owning my bike to do a valve clearance check. I always knew one of the bolts was missing, and now I have confirmed my fear that this bolt is broken off. I've soaked it with PB blaster for now but I don't know where to go from here... there's nothing to get a bite on. Here's a picture:

20130503_175044.jpg


Any ideas on how to get this out? I have the replacement for it already, but I'm worried this is gonna be a tough one.
 
I had one like that once. I took a small bit, drilled into the broken bolt just a bit and took an ease out and waaalaaa, come out no fuss.
 
Removing broken bolts

Removing broken bolts

Get yourself a set of Grabits or some name similar.
I used these and they worked awesome, these have a left hand drill bit on one end to make the hole, sometines the screw will come out just drilling.
The other end has the extractor, be careful with it and you will be fine.
I have removed 4 very tough broken screws/bolts with mine and I'm very impressed with them.
Do not use a convential screw extractor as they can break very easily and then you will remember more swear words than is good for you.
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brow...aft+Maximum+Grab-IT+4-piece+Set.jsp?locale=en
 
Thanks guys. Seems like a trip to the store is in order tomorrow morning.
 
Agemax said:
a good soak, apply a bit of heat and use a left handed drill bit. it will whizz right out
Click to expand...
Yep, left handed drill bits are the safe method; EZ outs and such are very brittle and easy to break in this small size.
 
Picked up the grabit "pro" set and I am having no luck with it. The big issue is that this bolt is right under the frame, so I am pretty much unable to get to it straight on. Have to come at it at a slight angle, and I've only succeeded in putting a bunch of useless ruts in it that are making it impossible to get the thing centered.

I am going to try picking up a longer extension for my drill and hope that helps me get a straighter shot at it. I don't have a long enough extension to clear the chuck past the frame.

I didn't have any leaks before so I'm wondering if I should just quit while I'm ahead and put the thing back together. :evil:
 
never give up. have you tried heating the area with a blow torch? give it a good tap with a centre punch as well. this will 1; give you a mark for the drill and 2; the shock of tapping it can help crack the hold on the threads of the bolt in the head.
 
Agemax said:
never give up. have you tried heating the area with a blow torch? give it a good tap with a centre punch as well. this will 1; give you a mark for the drill and 2; the shock of tapping it can help crack the hold on the threads of the bolt in the head.
Click to expand...

I did heat it up initially, will be doing so again. The center punch is a good idea, i actually do plan to pick one of those up along with my drill chuck extension. It's just such an awkward angle to get at! Why couldn't the P.O. have broken one of the easy ones to get to :rolleyes:
 
exzachtly1 said:
I did heat it up initially, will be doing so again. The center punch is a good idea, i actually do plan to pick one of those up along with my drill chuck extension. It's just such an awkward angle to get at! Why couldn't the P.O. have broken one of the easy ones to get to :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

well that would have been to easy wouldn't it !!! ;)

just think of the satisfaction you will have when you get that sucker out, instead of giving up, you can grab a beer and say YAYYYYYYYYYYY I did it.......:)
 
I be inclined to try to "slot" it if I could find a small enough dremmel wheel,
then I'd torch the outside of the aluminum, then I'd take a impact screwdriver and try to back it out. That is if I could get one in that area.
 
Since you say it is difficult to drill straight into the bolt due to the frame being in the way, I would weld a "nub" onto the bolt, and then use a vice-grip plier to back it out, or you could even weld a nut onto the "nub" and use a spanner. The heat from welding will hopefully break the "bond" free.

Good luck!
 
You guys are going at it all wrong... take the motor out of the frame and it will be easier to get at it. And you will have a chance to really get to know your bike...(:
Curt
 
Not sure if my confidence level is high enough yet to remove the engine or the head... hah.

Bugger is really in there though. Got a 12" extension for my drill and a center punch which has helped a LOT. Got a good start to a hole there. Except now, either the drill is too weak or the grabit is not strong enough to drill deep enough. It gets to a certain point and then I can't make any progress and the hole is still shallow... and my crappy black and decker drill just dies when I push as hard as I think I need to :rolleyes:

Maybe time to borrow a better drill from a neighbor... or try the slot idea. Oh and I managed to miss once or twice when using the center punch, put a nice little ding in the cylinder head. I don't think it will be a problem though. What a fun day, lol.
 
the drill is not the problem its the drill bit itself. you need to buy a decent set of drill bits, and some cutting/drilling compound. a decent sharp drill bit will whizz right through that bolt in seconds
 
Agemax said:
the drill is not the problem its the drill bit itself. you need to buy a decent set of drill bits, and some cutting/drilling compound. a decent sharp drill bit will whizz right through that bolt in seconds
Click to expand...

Then these grabit bits must be weak, or made of the wrong material, cause I worked the heck out of it and was barely able to make a dent. This is what I bought

http://www.lowes.com/pd_299780-4187...grabit&pl=1&currentURL=?Ntt=grabit&facetInfo=

Maybe it will work if i drill a pilot hole with a good bit first. I've looked for the left handed bits around here and no one carries them, would have to order online. Maybe these...

http://www.harborfreight.com/13-piece-left-hand-drill-bit-set-95146.html
 
exzachtly1 said:
Then these grabit bits must be weak, or made of the wrong material, cause I worked the heck out of it and was barely able to make a dent. This is what I bought

http://www.lowes.com/pd_299780-4187...grabit&pl=1&currentURL=?Ntt=grabit&facetInfo=

Maybe it will work if i drill a pilot hole with a good bit first. I've looked for the left handed bits around here and no one carries them, would have to order online. Maybe these...

http://www.harborfreight.com/13-piece-left-hand-drill-bit-set-95146.html
Click to expand...

look at the reviews on the grabit bits, poor quality,rubbish,junk.....say no more.

those left handers are a cheap kit as well but they should work for what you need, although for the money you could get a few 4 or 5mm carbide tipped drills. with cutting compound they will go through that bolt like cheese.
 
exzachtly1 said:
Then these grabit bits must be weak, or made of the wrong material, cause I worked the heck out of it and was barely able to make a dent. This is what I bought

http://www.lowes.com/pd_299780-4187...grabit&pl=1&currentURL=?Ntt=grabit&facetInfo=

Maybe it will work if i drill a pilot hole with a good bit first. I've looked for the left handed bits around here and no one carries them, would have to order online. Maybe these...

http://www.harborfreight.com/13-piece-left-hand-drill-bit-set-95146.html
Click to expand...


Just keep drilling slowly with good pressure they will do the job, most of the reviews are actually good for that item, I have the same set and they worked like a charm, did not even need to use a center punch as they are self starting but none of mine were under the frame like yours is.
Just be easy when you use the extractor end, take your time, nice and slow and you will be fine.
 
the hole is not blind, if you can get a straight shot at the bolt you should be able to drill right through, either a right angled drill or an extension. the bolt may start to turn and spin right through. if you can't get a straight shot, don't drill.
MIG would be my first choice, but imagine you don't have one, May be a neighbour?
That kinda leaves slotting or tapping it around with a small sharp center punch.
the motor may not have to come right out if you just remove the exhaust and undo the mounts it may help get the drill lined up .
 
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