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Bst36ss carbs 1200 motor tune

  • Thread starter Thread starter yoshisakan
  • Start date Start date
so do the 38mm carbs. The 36mm don't have the thin copper tube running down the side of the carbs

I disagree, mine have the copper tubes and I just ran out to the garage to measure them. 36mm ID on the manifold side. Another fun fact, when I pulled the carbs, fuel came spilling out of carb #1. I replaced all the o-rings in these, so that kind of ****es me off.
 
I disagree, mine have the copper tubes and I just ran out to the garage to measure them. 36mm ID on the manifold side. Another fun fact, when I pulled the carbs, fuel came spilling out of carb #1. I replaced all the o-rings in these, so that kind of ****es me off.

hmm got me stumped. I know they are not Bandit carbs or U.S model carbs then that I know of. When I get home I will post up a pic of my 36mm Bandit carbs and my set of 38's and my set of 40's C/V's
Good luck with them
maybe they are a set off early model GSXR 750
 
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They are from a 1989 gsxr 750, I losted this earlier lol. So do vaccuum leaks on carb 2 seem severe enough to stall it at idle? Im not sure what to change at this point other than that and retorquing the head in hopes that the oil may be fouling the plugs in atleast cylinder 4
 
Hope this helps with this discussion. I just took these. This is a set of carbs that I had on an '83GK. You can make out the numbers/codes on them and perhaps one of you can tell me exactly which year Bandit that they are off of?
They measure 36mm bore.





 
These are unique because they have one fuel inlet. Mine have 2, one between each sets of carbs.
 
Hope this helps with this discussion. I just took these. This is a set of carbs that I had on an '83GK. You can make out the numbers/codes on them and perhaps one of you can tell me exactly which year Bandit that they are off of?
They measure 36mm bore.




They appear to be pre-2000 Bandit BST36SS for California (27E6) It will be listed in the manual, but a google search will find the same info without the full download.
 
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Thanks Posplayr. They were a cheap/abused set that I got from Ebay and fixed up a little.They work on my GSes anyway. ;)
 
Thanks Posplayr. They were a cheap/abused set that I got from Ebay and fixed up a little.They work on my GSes anyway. ;)

So what bikes did you use them on? 16V 1100E? I assume they work the bike up?

From the pictures they seem to have the same plastic slides are the earlier GSXR carbs.
 
So what bikes did you use them on? 16V 1100E? I assume they work the bike up?

From the pictures they seem to have the same plastic slides are the earlier GSXR carbs.

Bored 1100 2-valve...



But, of course, they don't fit. ;) :biggrin:
 
Bored 1100 2-valve...



But, of course, they don't fit. ;) :biggrin:


Looks very good.

I will mention that it is pretty much common knowledge around the Gixxer.com site that you need to run the dual oval K&N pods to make those carbs act right.

Do you have a WB02 you are planning to use or just do Plug Chops?
 
Story time. I went to re-torque my head bolts, first loosening them. They had an ungodly amount of torque on them, id say in the 70ft lb range, whereas spec is 29. I re-torqued in the proper order and one of the studs broke around what i'd guess to be 20ft lbs. I was so close to getting this thing on the road this year, now i'll need to pull the head, replace the studs, head gasket o-rings, and valve seals. At least the oil leaking will be taken care of. Talk about **** luck.

Craftsman 1/2" click type torque wrench.
 
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Story time. I went to re-torque my head bolts, first loosening them. They had an ungodly amount of torque on them, id say in the 70ft lb range, whereas spec is 29. I re-torqued in the proper order and one of the studs broke around what i'd guess to be 20ft lbs. I was so close to getting this thing on the road this year, now i'll need to pull the head, replace the studs, head gasket o-rings, and valve seals. At least the oil leaking will be taken care of. Talk about **** luck.

Craftsman 1/2" click type torque wrench.

Sorry about that. Always good to have some weights from a weight set and do a quick calibration at your planned max torque level so you are sure to be close.

As long as the head did not get hot, you can probably reuse the head gasket.
 
I don't know that the torque wrench was off. I'm leaning toward the last owner over tightening/stretching the threads. It really had very little torque on it when it snapped.
 
Hate to bump this thread but I will. Replaced all the head studs and nuts with APE, also went with an OEM head gasket, kept the stock base gasket since no leaks were apparent and it wasn't leaking anyway. The one broken stud was a nightmare to remove, I had to keep welding onto it to try to get it to turn and eventually got a weld that stuck.

I am still having the same fuel problem though, and a clearance problem with my POD filters. This is in part because of the non-stock motor placement and is exaggerated by the nitrous flanges. Does anyone have any ideas how I can get more clearance between the filters and the gas tank? They will not fit as is and I had bought some sponge filters to use instead but they aren't very good quality. Here is a pic of the problem. bike.jpg
 
Here is another picture with the cheap pods. The tank isnt even bolted down and its already making contact with the pods. Some kind of turn down would be nice, but it would have to be on the intake side of the carb, because there is zero clearance beneath the carbs due to the nitrous solenoids. bike2.jpg
 
What intake manifolds are you using??? Are they mounted on the wrong ports? How were you planning to adjust the float levels with them mounted like that?
 
Here's a picture in her new home. Bought a duplex in November, the garage was totally unfinished with no gas or electric. So needless to say, The past 2 months have been filled with construction, insulation, power, heat, and lots of trips to Home Depot. bike3.jpg
 
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