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Budget carb/intake boots and tools

  • Thread starter Thread starter Efordman
  • Start date Start date
E

Efordman

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I know that you get what you pay for but these items are worth noting for people who can't afford the extra money. I found the intake boots from a Japanese company and fit great and look exactly like the originals. http://www.ebay.com/itm/131762875063

I found this valve shim tool at as good price also... Still waiting for it to arrive in the next few days and will update it as soon as I get to try it out. http://www.ebay.com/itm/400952277802

This carb screw driver I have not ordered but may still for future use..it's made for adjusting the screws on the bottom of the carburetor. http://www.ebay.com/itm/201644163716
 
The boots look interesting, will have to see if they come for the bikes that I have.

Good luck with the valve shim tool. I don't know if the tool for the Seca is the same size as the one for the GS, but I have enough problems using the one for the GS. I use a folded zip-tie with NO problems.

That screw adjuster looks like the same Motion Pro tool that is available at Z1 for about the same money. I have one, have only used it once. On most of the VM carbs, you set the screws while the carbs are on the bench for the setup you have (airbox/pods and stock/aftermarket exhaust), put the carbs back on the bike, then fine-tune the mixture using the air screws on the sides of the carbs. There is very little need to adjust the screws on the bottom, but if you have an empty slot in your tool drawer that is just begging to be filled, ... go for it. :encouragement:

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Steve said:
The boots look interesting, will have to see if they come for the bikes that I have.

Good luck with the valve shim tool. I don't know if the tool for the Seca is the same size as the one for the GS, but I have enough problems using the one for the GS. I use a folded zip-tie with NO problems.

That screw adjuster looks like the same Motion Pro tool that is available at Z1 for about the same money. I have one, have only used it once. On most of the VM carbs, you set the screws while the carbs are on the bench for the setup you have (airbox/pods and stock/aftermarket exhaust), put the carbs back on the bike, then fine-tune the mixture using the air screws on the sides of the carbs. There is very little need to adjust the screws on the bottom, but if you have an empty slot in your tool drawer that is just begging to be filled, ... go for it. :encouragement:

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Click to expand...
How do you use a folded zip tie to depress valve shim buckets?
 
Select a decently-long (about 10-12") zip tie.
Fold it at half-length to double its thickness.
Use tape or heat shrink to hold it folded.
Put another fold about 1/2-3/4" from the folded end, about 45 degrees of bend is plenty.
Remove the spark plugs. It's easier to turn the crank, so they should be out, anyway.
Rotate the crank so the cam is fully-depressing the desired valve.
Insert the folded end of the zip-tie between the edge of the valve that you can see through the plug hole and the head.
Rotate the crank one full turn, the cam lobe will be pointing away from the valve.
Remove/inspect/change the shim.
Rotate the crank one full turn, pull the zip-tie out.
Repeat as necessary.

Here is a simple drawing that might help you see the concept:
ziptieplacement.jpg


Some have tried it and claimed that it is a LOT of crank-turning. Yes, it is, but only the first time you do any particular bike. You will have to give the crank two full turns to inspect/change each shim, and additional partial turns to line up the next valve. But you only have to do the first time. After that, thanks to my handy-dandy spreadsheet (see info in my sig), you will KNOW what is in there and you will KNOW what the clearances were when you last did the valves, so you will have shims already purchased for potential candidates. And, since you might only have to change two or three shims the next time through, that is a whopping four or six turns of the crank.

To me, the security of not having the "official tool" slip off the side of the bucket, potentially shattering the shim is definitely worth a little bit of crank turning.

Here is an example of what can happen if a shim is not quite fully-seated and you bump the tool off the bucket:
IMG_4064.jpg


IMG_4065.jpg


This was on a previous Kawasaki, not a GS, but the concept is the same. I spent several minutes fishing with a magnet, then several more minutes assembling pieces to see how much I had found. I was satisfied that I was not going to find much more, and did not feel that the missing pieces were much of a danger, so I continued with my adjustment with a new shim.

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sam000lee said:
Wow I think I'm going to give those boots a try. Do the accept the same size O-rings?
Click to expand...

The boots fit perfectly and the only difference I found was the fact it didn't have the Suzuki "S" on them... O- rings fit also just fine...I would have replaced them also but I had bought a new set from Robert Barr just a few months before
 
good find, alot of these pattern parts are actually of excellent quality, and getting better all the time.
 
Cruzinimage is his store's name. I've bought piston rings, chains, cables, carb boots, small rubber parts, etc at a fraction of the price of some other places. Delivery from Japan is faster than some places I have purchased from in America.
 
Got my boots and installed them - So far so good Orings from cycleorings fit well. I didn't do a leak test or anything but the fit is good and the rubber is soft.


33912504406_952e3d52ab.jpg
 
Good to hear. Could you please do a review of them after you've had them on the bike for a few months and done some miles with them, thanks.
 
azr said:
Good to hear. Could you please do a review of them after you've had them on the bike for a few months and done some miles with them, thanks.
Click to expand...


Yup will do. Hoping to take the GS750 on a 4/5 day camping trip this weekend so will get some quality time with my new boots.:cool:
 
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