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buffin' like a crazed maniac

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
sschering said:
... (metal gets VERY HOT!!) ...
The loose buff grabbed the lever and threw it around the room twice so keep a good grip!!
Click to expand...
These two items seem to be at odds with each other, but here is my solution:



Yep, orange 'grippy' gloves from Harbor Freight, $2 a pair.
(click the picture for more information)

They do a fair job of thermal insulation and they grip really well.

If they get too dirty, toss them in the washing machine or just wear them and wash your hands with some dish soap. :D

.
 
sschering said:
Oh man. . I just got my sisal wheel and a hard airway wheel..

I'll have to be careful with that sisal wheel.. It could buff my skin off! It one rough hard wheel..

I think they will have a date with a nasty chain cover tonight..

Sisal w emery (black) compound to strip and rough finish (metal gets VERY HOT!!)

I'm sold on the sisal as a 1st stage stripping/rough in wheel.
Click to expand...

Sisal wheel and emery compound is the key. No need for sanding unless you have major gouges or craters. I used to do the progressively finer sand paper but not any more.:cool: The finish turns out brighter than the OE Suzuki finish so I typically just stop after the initial polishing, other than a quick once over with a stitched wheel or Mother's by hand to remove any remaining swirl marks.
 
Nessism said:
Sisal wheel and emery compound is the key. No need for sanding unless you have major gouges or craters. I used to do the progressively finer sand paper but not any more.:cool: The finish turns out brighter than the OE Suzuki finish so I typically just stop after the initial polishing, other than a quick once over with a stitched wheel or Mother's by hand to remove any remaining swirl marks.
Click to expand...

I don't know what a sisal wheel, emery compound or the other things schering was talking about are. Can someone post a picture of these things so I know what these "hot tickets" are. I'm a self acknowleged tool junkie and I need to abot these "toys". Is the white thing under the lever in Scherring pict the sisal wheel?

The fellow at the auto parts store tried to sell me a little 2", "3m" type , fiber scrubber wheel, that screwed into a air grinder, (which I don't own, or know what for certain it is) and it looked like it would be effective.

cg
 
Charlie G said:
I don't know what a sisal wheel, emery compound or the other things schering was talking about are. Can someone post a picture of these things so I know what these "hot tickets" are. I'm a self acknowleged tool junkie and I need to abot these "toys". Is the white thing under the lever in Scherring pict the sisal wheel?

The fellow at the auto parts store tried to sell me a little 2", "3m" type , fiber scrubber wheel, that screwed into a air grinder, (which I don't own, or know what for certain it is) and it looked like it would be effective.

cg
Click to expand...

Type "sisal wheel" into a google search and get ready for an epiphany.:D
 
I guess I knew what a sisal wheel is after checking. This is what I use.

IMG_0146.jpg


cg
 
yes use a screrwdriver to scrape the biult up stuff from the wheel. Makes it much more efficient. And Dave, I have used the Wizards Power Seal for years on all sorts of metals and i hadnt found anythingb that protects as well and as long as that stuff does. Just my preference of course!!!
 
cyclefvr2 said:
yes there is its inexpencive, it is a handle, with a wheel that has points all over it, google it youll see, maybe harbor freight has them
screwdrivers can cut your pad be careful, the tool will last n keep it clean
Click to expand...

A screwdriver has a handle:rolleyes:
 
Charlie G said:
I guess I knew what a sisal wheel is after checking. This is what I use.

IMG_0146.jpg


cg
Click to expand...

That's not a sisal wheel. That's a loose stitched wheel. The sisal is coarse and much tighter sewn. It sheds much less and can buff out heavy oxidation, where as softer wheels can't.
 
azr said:
Not sure if it's a sisal, don't think so. I can't get proper wheels her in the Capital of the Province (go figure). I'm grabbing these from a rock hound shop in town. I was using red rouge on the thicker wheel with not great results, although I think the wheel became dirty. The white rouge on the thinner wheel works wonders. I had to replace the wheel once though due to it getting filled with dirt/grease. I'm cleaning things pretty weel and hitting them with either a brass wire wheel first or wet sandpaper, 400/1000/2000 yet I still wind up getting the wheel black. I'm trying to make sure I'm not using too much compound but obviously I'm doing something wrong....at least I think I am, who knows.......the end result looks shinny though and I'm havin' fun so I guess that's all that matters.
Click to expand...
KMS Tools on Island Highway in Colwood has wheels and compounds.Don't look much different than what you have but you might want to check them out.Those sisal wheels are really aggressive looking.I'm sure they blast through paint.
 
Charlie G said:
I guess I knew what a sisal wheel is after checking. This is what I use.

IMG_0146.jpg


cg
Click to expand...

Hey Charlie G,

I liked the set up you have so much I went out and bought one, at least the extension piece and the buffing wheels. I know I can find a motor somewhere for free. My question is how did you hook the extension to the motor? it looks like a drill chuck in there. Please enlighten. I want to clean up some parts without taking them off to avoid the never ending work that comes with stripping apart things and your set up looks perfect. Where can I see some more pics of your 450? there's a guy up here selling a 400 model for cheap and have been humbing and hawing about it.
 
azr,

There are a few pictures of my 450 in my album. I added one other this evening. PM me if you need more photos of the bike. My first bike was a new 1977 GS400. The fast blue one with a front disc, gear indicator. Sold it to buy a used truck and not be wet when I got to work. Buffing set up below. These items I've picked up over time.

IMG_0167.jpg


The first piece is the arbor adaptor. I picked it up first to use with a buffing wheel or grinding wheel. Match size to motor diameter( 5/8" or 1/2") and chuck thread (1/2"x20?).

IMG_0166.jpg


I've placed the buffing wheel adapter( which is installed on the flex shaft, in my previous posted picture) on the chuck on the motor for this photo. It's ment to be used in an electric drill.

IMG_0169.jpg


Buffing wheel adapter with wheel off. 1/4" for chuck and 1/2" thread to install buffing wheel.

Check the rpm rating on your flexable shaft. I wanted one which I could install on a 30.000 rpm router and the shaft was only rated to 4k rpm. I didn't try it for fear I'd melt it.

IMG_0168.jpg


I'd recomend a 1/2 hp motor and one which you can reverse (swap wires around per labeled instructions) the direction of rotation. This one is probally 1930 vintage and 1/3 hp. I can stop it if I bear down real hard. 1725 rpm (I think).

I found that I had a old 4" sisal wheel and gave it a try this evening. I need to get some more rouge now that I know what the different colors are for. I've been playing with this stuff for 30 years and knew nothing about which wheel or what rouge.

Wish I could get a hold of a 8 valve 400 or at least the head. I have too many projects now.

Charlie G
 
cyclefvr2 said:
yes there is its inexpencive, it is a handle, with a wheel that has points all over it, google it youll see, maybe harbor freight has them
screwdrivers can cut your pad be careful, the tool will last n keep it clean
Click to expand...

The guy selling wheels & rouge at the local bike show had them...I think it's called a rake....they recommend (carefully!) using a piece of hacksaw blade to trim loading off the wheel, if one doesn't have a rake.
 
This thread reminded me of an experience I had in college (no, not that you perverts). I was working on my senior project. It was a car that we were building for FSAE. It was a big deal and after spending many hours designing and prototyping an intake manifold, I spec'd it for a machine shop and they built us a one-off. It looked great and it was very expensive, but it wasn't perfect, so I decided that I would polish it.

I fired up the buffer and went to work. Well, I wasn't holding it as well as I should have been and the buffer wheel grabbed the manifold and shot it across the shop. Talk about pucker factor. My first thought was "I just ruined this part. I have to explain to my professor and the entire team that I am a dumbass". Needless to say, I got very lucky. The part was fine and nobody saw me do it :). Close call though. I have had a great deal of respect for buffers ever since.
 
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