Black caps would give you a good looking contrast. Go for it.
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Black caps would give you a good looking contrast. Go for it.
J
jwhelan65
Guest
Ed, do you have a pic of the sisal wheel?
G
Guest
Guest
This is what I use.
Hey ED, what brand rougue do you use on your finish?
I've seen your work and I think I prefer the non chrome OE look for the parts on the 78.
Hey ED, what brand rougue do you use on your finish?
I've seen your work and I think I prefer the non chrome OE look for the parts on the 78.
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S
sschering
Guest
Nice work.. Be careful, it's an addiction..
Now every aluminum part is a chance to polish
I need to get off my butt and order a sissal wheel..
Just so I can keep track I write the compound used on the side of the wheel so I don't mix them up..
It'll do wonders for fork lower legs too..
Yeah I got a bit carried away and polished the speedo drive & spaces too.
The looked about like your covers when I started
Also did the rear spacers and crush drive.
Now every aluminum part is a chance to polish
I need to get off my butt and order a sissal wheel..
Just so I can keep track I write the compound used on the side of the wheel so I don't mix them up..
It'll do wonders for fork lower legs too..
Yeah I got a bit carried away and polished the speedo drive & spaces too.
The looked about like your covers when I started
Also did the rear spacers and crush drive.
This is what I use.
Hey ED, what brand rougue do you use on your finish?
I've seen your work and I think I prefer the non chrome OE look for the parts on the 78.
Sears sell compound sticks for cheap, only a few dollars each. The sisal wheels I use come from Caswell's Plating.
S
shibby_cbs
Guest
Nice work.. Be careful, it's an addiction..
Now every aluminum part is a chance to polish
I need to get off my butt and order a sissal wheel..
Just so I can keep track I write the compound used on the side of the wheel so I don't mix them up..
It'll do wonders for fork lower legs too..
Yeah I got a bit carried away and polished the speedo drive & spaces too.
The looked about like your covers when I started
Also did the rear spacers and crush drive.
you hit the nail right on the head there...ive even been looking at things not even related to the bike to polish...im already addicted...as soon as i got my wheels i marked them so we are good to go on that...i need to look at new wheels as the ones that came with the motor blow and are shredding all over the place...this isnt normal right...the fork legs are deffinately next on the list...they need it bad...i am wondering if the sisel wheel will cut through the weird black stuff that seems to have embedded itself in the metal...it takes quite a bit of sanding to get that stuff off...also bein the covers still have the stock finish should i use a stripper to take off the clear?
S
sschering
Guest
for stripping clear coat off the legs I used a HF roloc mount and a 3M clean n strip roloc pad
HF roloc 3" holder
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-disc-holder-with-1-4-quarter-inch-shank-99560.html
I mounted it in my lathe and kicked up the spindle speed as high as it'll go..
It worked great...
As for the wheels my spiral cotton wheels blow off a bit at first but they stop after a bit of use.
the loose cotton wheel for the white rouge is always blowing string everywhere..
HF roloc 3" holder
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-disc-holder-with-1-4-quarter-inch-shank-99560.html
I mounted it in my lathe and kicked up the spindle speed as high as it'll go..
It worked great...
As for the wheels my spiral cotton wheels blow off a bit at first but they stop after a bit of use.
the loose cotton wheel for the white rouge is always blowing string everywhere..
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G
GS ace
Guest
Clear Coat
Clear Coat
Here's a tip from my shop. I don't use any abrasive to remove the clear coat. Permatex gasket remover sprayed into a can then applied with a brush has results that are almost instantaneous. You just wipe it off after a couple of minutes.
It's pretty potent stuff, so make sure gloves are worn and it is applied only to what needs to be removed.
Clear Coat
Here's a tip from my shop. I don't use any abrasive to remove the clear coat. Permatex gasket remover sprayed into a can then applied with a brush has results that are almost instantaneous. You just wipe it off after a couple of minutes.
It's pretty potent stuff, so make sure gloves are worn and it is applied only to what needs to be removed.
Paint stripper works similarly and is cheaper.
S
shibby_cbs
Guest
is it absolutely necessary to re-clear these parts or no?...what are the conciquences?
Agemax
Forum Guru
personally i would say no,although others may argue otherwise.
if you clear coat them it WILL yellow and crack over time and then you have to remove it all again.a quick buff regularly on the bare shiny parts will keep them looking mint for ages, but if they do dull a bit then its easy to polish them back up again
P
Planecrazy
Guest
I would say it depends on how often you wish to go through the polishing process. I personally tend to "ride" more than "clean," so for me the clear coat path probably makes more sense. If, however, you don't mind the occasional "touch up" time I'd agree with Agemax. Keep in mind that if you use a good quality UV resistant clear coat you shouldn't see any yellowing for years...
Oh ... one other thought. I remember recently seeing a product on Stacy David's "Gearz" that was like a polish but claimed to keep oxidation away for at least a year - wish I could remember what it was called. The obvious advantage is that you don't have to "remove" it to polish again in the future ... just reapply when you're done polishing...
Regards,
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a couple good coats of turtle wax or another reputable tough lasting wax will also seal the metal from the air and moisture.
I used Por-15 Glisten clear coat on my polished parts and they look good, although I'm not sure what engine heat will do to the engine cover finish long term.
Most all commercially produced aluminum parts will have either paint or anodizing to protect the metal against corrosion. Wax or similar is better than nothing though.
Most all commercially produced aluminum parts will have either paint or anodizing to protect the metal against corrosion. Wax or similar is better than nothing though.
G
Guest
Guest
Thanks.. I know where to buy compound(northern) but I wanna know which one you use to get the OE looking finish.
P
pwrdbyoreos
Guest
been wanting to clean up my side covers since i bought the bike, but just havent gotten enough good info on it. This definitly cleared up alot of questions I had. My only concern is living in new england, some of the words and elements around make me wonder how long my hard work would last. Who has done this and how has it reacted to northen conditions? What can I expect after waxing them? Would this work on pitting and minor rust on my front (chrome) fender?
S
shibby_cbs
Guest
as far as how long it will last in the elements i dont really know but im sure any good car wax or protectant would do the job...as far as the pitting and rust goes i guess it depends on how bad it is...i would suggest doing a good ammount of progressive sanding to get rid of the bulk of the rust and smooth out some of the pitting...after that start with an agressive compound...i started with black which was the most agressive i had access too...then do about 2 to 3 more buffs with progressively lighter compound...if it dosnt complety refurb the metal it will make the pitting alot less visable/noticeable...thats just my .02 cents from what i have learnd so far...im sure someone with alot more experience will chime in here soon
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