• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Building a new wiring harness

  • Thread starter Thread starter Hakamisu
  • Start date Start date
H

Hakamisu

Guest
I have been tearing down my 82' GS850 GZ and the harness is chafed all over and has a bunch of bad splices from previous owners.

I was planning on rebuilding the whole harness and was wondering if there was a guide already on here that had all the wire gauges. I looked and couldn't find anything but thought someone with a little more time on here might have a better idea. Thanks in advance.
 
Have you considered just getting a used harness from an ebay seller- would save alot of time?
 
tom203 said:
Have you considered just getting a used harness from an ebay seller- would save alot of time?
Click to expand...

I remember seeing at least one good example, but I really don't see the need. Most of the wires are adequately sized except the primary red and orange wires and the grounds. The most I could recommend would be to put in the Western Beaver unit. This would reduce the load on the wires at issue.

As Tom suggests find a descent quality used harness and get some Detoxit contact cleaner and go over it, do the recommended wiring changes for the R/R (including soldering the fuse box crimps).

Reinforce the wrap in places that it needs will be much better than stock and you wont have to worry about designing a harness.
 
posplayr said:
I remember seeing at least one good example, but I really don't see the need. Most of the wires are adequately sized except the primary red and orange wires and the grounds. The most I could recommend would be to put in the Western Beaver unit. This would reduce the load on the wires at issue.

As Tom suggests find a descent quality used harness and get some Detoxit contact cleaner and go over it, do the recommended wiring changes for the R/R (including soldering the fuse box crimps).

Reinforce the wrap in places that it needs will be much better than stock and you wont have to worry about designing a harness.
Click to expand...

I would normally agree, but I can get stock wiring for free and I'm a bit particular to what I have in mind. I want to move a few connections to more accessible places. The other reason is I bought this bike as a project bike and to have fun building. Buying a used harness would not be fun or cost effective to me.
 
So I have been doing more research into building a harness. After deciding to do a few relay mods and countless other upgrades, I decided it was time to actually build a new harness for sure.

A few things I will be doing for sure is upgrading to Mil22759/16 wire and using Weatherpack connectors.

There are a few things I was hoping to pick your brains for though.

1 - Is a max of 2% voltage drop excessive? I know you want that or better for ignition and charging, but indication, lighting and horn?

2 - Does anyone know the average amperage of the different components on an 82' GS850G? Mostly Starter, Start Relay, Ignition Box, Coils and Signal Generator.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.:)
 
2% drop is not much overall infact that would be great; most people see 1-2v out of 13v drops just to the coils. Most of that is in the switches.

All three fuse circuits are 10A, that is a little over kill.
 
Last edited:
posplayr said:
2% drop is not much overall infact that would be great; most people see 1-2v out of 13v drops just to the coils. Most of that is in the switches.

All three fuse circuits are 10A, that is a little over kill.
Click to expand...

I definitely realized the overkill on the fuses, which doesn't really hurt with an old finicky system. I'm mostly worried about ensuring I have the right wire gauge for all the systems. With my LED upgrades to the lighting, I have about 2 A, and with 22 AWG I'm looking at about a 5.5% loss. Is this to high for lighting?

For the charging and ignition I can go to what ever size is needed. I would just like to know more.
 
Most of the wires are either 18 or 20 gauge.
A 5.5% drop is excessive. Shoot for your 2%, that is the accepted goal for DC.
 
Hello again everyone.

I was looking at removing the "start/kill" switch from my handlebars (trying to slim down the wiring and look of the handlebars), and going to just a key start under the seat. Now I just found out you need a kill switch by law in BC on the handlebars. Now I found this http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vinta...light-blinker-control-killswitch-12-0041.html , which will integrate it all.

My question is, would you go this route and just put a 2-way ignition (key), or put a smaller light switch with just a kill button and keep the start under the seat?

Yes I know this has alot to do with preference, but would still like some input and if you have time why.

Thanks
 
Hakamisu said:
Hello again everyone.

I was looking at removing the "start/kill" switch from my handlebars (trying to slim down the wiring and look of the handlebars), and going to just a key start under the seat. Now I just found out you need a kill switch by law in BC on the handlebars. Now I found this http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vinta...light-blinker-control-killswitch-12-0041.html , which will integrate it all.

My question is, would you go this route and just put a 2-way ignition (key), or put a smaller light switch with just a kill button and keep the start under the seat?

Yes I know this has alot to do with preference, but would still like some input and if you have time why.

Thanks
Click to expand...

getting rid of the kill switch could be "Killer" :eek:
 
There is a reason motorcycles come with a kill switch. In the 60's they did not, and there could be nothing worse than being trapped under a running motorcycle, in gear, with the key unreachable (they used to be on the side.
Your kill switch needs to be large, accessible, and easy to reach. Aesthetics be dammed on this one, you need to consider your safety first and looks second.
Rant over.
 
Understood.

I would still like some input on weather I should go with the big combined switch or a small one separate from the light switch unit. Like this one.
 
The "kill" switch needs to be something that you push ONCE and it stays activated.

It should NOT be something that you have to hold to stop the engine, as in grounding out the magneto on a dirt bike.

I did not see anything other than what appeared to be momentary-contact push buttons.

.
 
Steve said:
The "kill" switch needs to be something that you push ONCE and it stays activated.

It should NOT be something that you have to hold to stop the engine, as in grounding out the magneto on a dirt bike.

I did not see anything other than what appeared to be momentary-contact push buttons.

.
Click to expand...


It would be a normally closed switch.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top