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Burnt wire connected to stator

  • Thread starter Thread starter pmong
  • Start date Start date
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pmong

Guest
Hi,

I have my GS450GA on non-registration this year, and yesterday, I did my monthly starting and running it. I noticed some smoke coming from the left side, and upon closer checking, I discovered that it was coming from one of the wires connected to the stator, the white/green one. It was hot to the touch, while the other two were very warm.

I am attaching a photo, which shows that some of the insulation melted.

Any suggestions about the cause, and recommendations about solutions. I will try to clean the contact to improve the connection.

Thanks.
 

Attachments

  • Burnt wire.JPG
    Burnt wire.JPG
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Please check the Newbie Mistakes thread linked in my signature. The charging system wiring is one of the most common of all GS problems.
 
Poor, high resistance, contact. As stated above, it's a very common problem. Personally I replace those bullet connectors with direct solder wire connections to the R/R. Along with that, you need to bypass the loop that goes through the headlamp bucket. Just run the three stator wires directly to the three R/R wires.
 
I am sorry you are having difficulties with the charging system, but I noticed that you will soon be having OTHER difficulties. :-k
I have my GS450GA on non-registration this year, and yesterday, I did my monthly starting and running it.
If you have it on "non-registration", I am under the understanding that you can not ride the bike on public roads. Why are you starting it? Unless you are doing maintenance or verifying a repair, you should not be starting the bike unless you are going to go for a ride that will completely warm it up to FULL operating temperature.

You should really consider adding some stabilizer to the gas, running the bike one final time to ensure that the treated gas gets through all the passages in the carbs, then shut it down and LEAVE IT ALONE. You are doing damage to the bike by routine starting and not warming it up.

.
 
Poor, high resistance, contact. As stated above, it's a very common problem. Personally I replace those bullet connectors with direct solder wire connections to the R/R. Along with that, you need to bypass the loop that goes through the headlamp bucket. Just run the three stator wires directly to the three R/R wires.

One of my goals is to bypass the loop to the headlamp bucket. Just need to find the time to check the diagram, wires and then implement. I am on my third R/R. The second was one of the better ones from Honda, but that gave out. I purchased a replacement from eBay designed for the Suzuki, so not sure if it is as robust.
 
Yes, I am working on the bike when I have time, which is about once a month or once every two months. Too many work and family obligations. (Rebuilt carb, adjusted values, work on the electrical, work on brakes [which froze because I had the parking brakes on], etc.). I have it on "non-reg" because I ride my other motorcycle for now.

When I do work on the bike, I start it up as needed. I live in a planned community with private roads, so I am able to ride it, usually running for 10 minutes total. That may not be enough, so thanks for the warning.

I plan to get it registered in September, so need to work out all of the problems.

I have gas stablizer in the tank.

Thanks.

I am sorry you are having difficulties with the charging system, but I noticed that you will soon be having OTHER difficulties. :-k

If you have it on "non-registration", I am under the understanding that you can not ride the bike on public roads. Why are you starting it? Unless you are doing maintenance or verifying a repair, you should not be starting the bike unless you are going to go for a ride that will completely warm it up to FULL operating temperature.

You should really consider adding some stabilizer to the gas, running the bike one final time to ensure that the treated gas gets through all the passages in the carbs, then shut it down and LEAVE IT ALONE. You are doing damage to the bike by routine starting and not warming it up.

.
 
The reason for not starting the bike for a few minutes was not explained but it only creates water vapor in the crankcase and eventually over the course of an off season or extended parking of the bike, the water vapor turns into a serious amount of water. This burns off in normal use. Consider you cage and when you start it on a cold day, you can watch the water come out the exhaust and it is more than just a drop or two. And when "warming up" is mentioned, that normally takes a 10-20 mile ride in cold weather. Very good point here.

Another good point is soldering. Why bother install new connectors on the old wires when you can just solder the ends together and use heat shrink over those joints. Tin the two ends after wrapping them together and then hold your soldering iron under the tinned joint till you see the solder penetrate through the wire. A cold solder joint is as bad as a bad connector. Then slide that heat shrink up over the joint when it cools a tad and use a hair drier to shrink it. That joint will NEVER fail unlike a connector. And you may want to splice in THREE new wires off the stator; if that W/G got hot at the connector, it could be compromised. Buy you a spool of 16 ga. yellow wire at the autoparts store.
 
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