Bypassing anti-dive units

[Wallowgreen]

Been searching around trying to figure out the best approach to either disable or remove the anti-dive units on my 1000 kat. Turned up a few threads that talked about the bypass plates available from Demon Speed for about $80 but I also saw that others had simply disconnected the original anti-dive units and left them in place - or at least that's what it looked like.

I think leaving the original units in place is my favoured option as it seems to save the cost of the bypass plates but I didn't find anything showing me exactly how it's done. Is it really as simple as leaving them bolted on the fork leg as is and disconnect them from the braking system?

Thoughts and comments from those that have actually done it would be much appreciated before I strip the forks down and try to figure it out for myself.

Agemax.... where are you? I believe you've done this on one of your machines....

 

[Baatfam]

Is it really as simple as leaving them bolted on the fork leg as is and disconnect them from the braking system?

Yes....yes it is.

I found some plastic body panel connectors at the Ace hardware store to fill the brake line holes...just painted them silver.

 

[Agemax]

hi, yes, just disconnect the brake lines and leave the A/D units connected to the forks if you wish. you can unbolt the top half and remove the guts from it. no fork oil will come out, its just for the brake fluid pressure valve.
i just machined out the inside of the top half to accept an M8 allen bolt and screwed the spike nut on the top.

 

[posplayr]

I don't have any pictures of it but at almost no cost and without disturbing the original look I took the anti dive brake line from the double banjo and plugged that end.

You can safely plug the brake line by using a dremel to open up the brake port in order to be big enough to melt a blob of solder. The brake line pressure is then trying to press a blob of solder into a convergent space and it cant go anywhere.

There is not outwardly difference in appearance.

 

[blowerbike]

someone correct me if i'm wrong...
the block off plates for the pre 1150's are just plate's without a cross over machined?
this has been my thinking plus i have a set of 82/83 plates that are solid...no cross over machined inside.

 

[Wallowgreen]

Perfect, thanks to all!

$80 I can spend on something else, let's see....

 

[Nessism]

someone correct me if i'm wrong...
the block off plates for the pre 1150's are just plate's without a cross over machined?
this has been my thinking plus i have a set of 82/83 plates that are solid...no cross over machined inside.

Naw, you need to connect the ports. I made block off plates for my old 750ES from 3/8" flat aluminum plate, with a channel ground in to allow oil to flow between the two ports. Worked fine and looked a lot cleaner than a blocked off antidive unit hanging on the front of the forks.

 

[salty_monk]

Yes, you need the connecting channel UNLESS you fit emulators. As long as you drill above an below the oil ring the anti dive circuit is then disabled.

I run an 1100 fork with Mikes XS emulators in a home bred adapter with straight weight springs. Just about one of the best handling GS's I've ridden now.....

 

[Guest]

straight rate springs, cartridge emulators and ditch the ugly anti dive valves.
money well spent,

 

[ChewedFood]

Naw, you need to connect the ports. I made block off plates for my old 750ES from 3/8" flat aluminum plate, with a channel ground in to allow oil to flow between the two ports. Worked fine and looked a lot cleaner than a blocked off antidive unit hanging on the front of the forks.

Can you post a picture or a diagram of this plate please so that I may get some also please.

edit: nevermind I understand the concept now

 

[Boriqua]

I don't have any pictures of it but at almost no cost and without disturbing the original look I took the anti dive brake line from the double banjo and plugged that end.

You can safely plug the brake line by using a dremel to open up the brake port in order to be big enough to melt a blob of solder. The brake line pressure is then trying to press a blob of solder into a convergent space and it cant go anywhere.

There is not outwardly difference in appearance.

Out for a ride today and managed to bottom out the front end a couple of times so that has now gone up the priority list. I want to get some sonic springs and seals. Its a job I have done on a couple of other bikes and was comfortable until I realized I have this

First question is .. can I install straight rate springs and change out the fork oil and seals as normal or does the anti dive require special internals? My clymer shows a lot more going on inside the forks than anything I have run across. It seems to me that my anti dive is working so I wouldnt be against leaving it there if I can use straight rate springs and new seals. Unless there is some reason these units are unfavorable.

Second question is directly related to the post I quoted by posplayr. If I understand it correctly he did nothing but Plug the hole in the brake line that feeds the antidive.

I dont actually mind the look of the antidive .. I think its kind of techy but would that be enough to completely disable the system and then allow me to go ahead with a straight up install of springs, seals and oil? Would JB weld Work as well?

Another choice is to leave the antidive in place and use the banjo from the antidive side on the caliper and just remove the pass over hose and hopefully do a straight install but for both these choices do I have to gut the antidive and then just use the empty body? I kind of just want to keep it in place. I am looking for a nice daily driver not a show bike. I know once i pull the unit off I have to find a gasket.

And last and my least favorite option would be a plate
http://www.fastfromthepast.com/dadbpp-gs7b

at $100 bucks that puts the front end work at about $250-300 when you include the springs and seals and its still a big piece of metal to replace a big piece of metal.

 

[posplayr]

Out for a ride today and managed to bottom out the front end a couple of times so that has now gone up the priority list. I want to get some sonic springs and seals. Its a job I have done on a couple of other bikes and was comfortable until I realized I have this

First question is .. can I install straight rate springs and change out the fork oil and seals as normal or does the anti dive require special internals? My clymer shows a lot more going on inside the forks than anything I have run across. It seems to me that my anti dive is working so I wouldnt be against leaving it there if I can use straight rate springs and new seals. Unless there is some reason these units are unfavorable.

Second question is directly related to the post I quoted by posplayr. If I understand it correctly he did nothing but Plug the hole in the brake line that feeds the antidive.

I dont actually mind the look of the antidive .. I think its kind of techy but would that be enough to completely disable the system and then allow me to go ahead with a straight up install of springs, seals and oil? Would JB weld Work as well?

Another choice is to leave the antidive in place and use the banjo from the antidive side on the caliper and just remove the pass over hose and hopefully do a straight install but for both these choices do I have to gut the antidive and then just use the empty body? I kind of just want to keep it in place. I am looking for a nice daily driver not a show bike. I know once i pull the unit off I have to find a gasket.

And last and my least favorite option would be a plate
http://www.fastfromthepast.com/dadbpp-gs7b

at $100 bucks that puts the front end work at about $250-300 when you include the springs and seals and its still a big piece of metal to replace a big piece of metal.

All my pictures are probably being blocked by Photobucket. Basically, use a small dremmel (ball) to open-up the brake line port. Then using a propane torch, heat the fitting to get solder to flow into the pocket.
The idea is that the pocket is larger than the port so forces on the solder ball cannot be forced through the port. Use plumbers flux to make sure it adheres.

I would not use JB weld for it would be unfortunate if your brakes were to give out. I never had any issues with the solder plug.

In you picture plug the brake caliper banjo fitting that goes to the damper.

While heating the fitting, wrap the brake line with a wet rag to pull heat from the line.