K
kinsey
Guest
ok 79 gs 1000 26mm cabs 17.5 pilot jets 125 main jet......have v&h drag header pods...cabs been sync ,,,,, have to turn air screws all the way in....in order for it to idle half ass...but blacking's the plugs......
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Turning the side screws ( MIXTURE SCREWS ) IN will richen the fuel to air ratio. That screw adds or removes the amount of air being mixed with the fuel. #15 pilots will lean it back a bit. The main isnt that big a deal till your at about 1/4 throttle or above.
Other than the jetting there are a Few things that will also effect the mixture regardless of what jets are in there. First and fore most is the float level.
Do this experiment. Fill a soda bottle right to the rim with water. Now suck the water from the rim and youll see it takes very very little effort to get a good sip. This is because the level is as high as it can go..follow me so far?? Now this is an example of a float ht being too high and the cylinders sucking in way too much fuel. IE its will be running rich from the float hts being off.
Now lower the level to the bottom of the rim the cap seat at and try to suck the water out the same as you did with it at the very rim. Notice you have to suck really hard to get any watter ...if any at all. This would be an example of the float level being off and the fuel too low in the bowls..which makes them run lean.
Second thing is hanging up choke plungers. And if you take one of the forks that lift the chokes, youll see there is a raised hump on the legs of the fork. Look at them and youll see one is taller than the other one. The larger hump faces to the carb body and the big nut on the plunger. This hump assists by pushing down on the barrel when the choke is released.
Third is the pods...over piled pods are like a constant choking condition. Ever so lightly oil pods. In short, rebuild the carbs ( and also out in new intake manifold orings ), adjust the valves, recheck the float levels, check the choke plunger snap back and you hear a thunk as they bottom out when you let go of the plungers when you pull them up, check the pods. Also be sure the vents arent plugged or capped off.
Heres the place to find the service manual and the carb rebuild tutorials..on the right side just bellow the manual menu.
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/
Heres the place for the oring kit. Note the intake manifold rings are on page 3. Measure the ID of your old ones to get the right size. And whatever you do, DO NOT grip the float seats with pliers to twist them out OR heat them to release the old orings seals. Squeezing them will egg out the hole and the float needles can and will hang and not work right. heat will melt the plastic ring that holds the filter screens in the hole. If the seats are stubborn you geta sharp knife and wedge it between the brass shoulder of the seat and the carb body and work it around to get the seats out. A little oil on the new orings helps them go in easily and not get torn.
Anything I can help with just PM me. I check PMs when I get home from work so be patient. I will respond.
Other than the jetting there are a Few things that will also effect the mixture regardless of what jets are in there. First and fore most is the float level.
Do this experiment. Fill a soda bottle right to the rim with water. Now suck the water from the rim and youll see it takes very very little effort to get a good sip. This is because the level is as high as it can go..follow me so far?? Now this is an example of a float ht being too high and the cylinders sucking in way too much fuel. IE its will be running rich from the float hts being off.
Now lower the level to the bottom of the rim the cap seat at and try to suck the water out the same as you did with it at the very rim. Notice you have to suck really hard to get any watter ...if any at all. This would be an example of the float level being off and the fuel too low in the bowls..which makes them run lean.
Second thing is hanging up choke plungers. And if you take one of the forks that lift the chokes, youll see there is a raised hump on the legs of the fork. Look at them and youll see one is taller than the other one. The larger hump faces to the carb body and the big nut on the plunger. This hump assists by pushing down on the barrel when the choke is released.
Third is the pods...over piled pods are like a constant choking condition. Ever so lightly oil pods. In short, rebuild the carbs ( and also out in new intake manifold orings ), adjust the valves, recheck the float levels, check the choke plunger snap back and you hear a thunk as they bottom out when you let go of the plungers when you pull them up, check the pods. Also be sure the vents arent plugged or capped off.
Heres the place to find the service manual and the carb rebuild tutorials..on the right side just bellow the manual menu.
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/
Heres the place for the oring kit. Note the intake manifold rings are on page 3. Measure the ID of your old ones to get the right size. And whatever you do, DO NOT grip the float seats with pliers to twist them out OR heat them to release the old orings seals. Squeezing them will egg out the hole and the float needles can and will hang and not work right. heat will melt the plastic ring that holds the filter screens in the hole. If the seats are stubborn you geta sharp knife and wedge it between the brass shoulder of the seat and the carb body and work it around to get the seats out. A little oil on the new orings helps them go in easily and not get torn.
Anything I can help with just PM me. I check PMs when I get home from work so be patient. I will respond.
OH..1 kit from Robert does the entire rack of carbs and the fuel tee and transfer tubes. You dont need any other rebuild kits. get the orings from Robert and follow the rebuild tutorial. have questions..ask. Many folks herewill be here to help.