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Cafe part duh

  • Thread starter Thread starter musicman
  • Start date Start date
Haha, that old turd is still around, been 4 months since I've seen it but I think it's about 280000 miles or so.
 
musicman said:
I think we're on to something here...

Smallseat.jpg
Click to expand...

That's what I'm talking about. Sweeet!

Wouldn't a small battery allow the use of the HID lights if it was kick start only?
Like a couple D cell sized 12v NiCads or something?
The lights don't need to be on except when the engine is running, the battery is just to help it regulate correctly?
Or is there more to it? I don't know didly about HID lights.
 
I thought about something similar, and really I'm not sure... My HID's I've ran in my cars in the past have been kind of fidgety about voltage, for example my current DD, 2008 Aveo, uses the headlamps as DRL's (running lights). There's a resistor somewhere and it drops the current, makes them dimmer. The DRL's are always on, lights get brighter when you turn the headlights on with the stick (it's stupid...). ANYWHO, to make a stupid story shorter the lower voltage would cause the ballasts to be stupid, and they wouldn't come on, until you shut the car off, and started it again with the headlights "On", sending full voltage. 2 ways I could've fixed it, relay kit or disable the DRL's (which is what I did).

Seems to me if the voltage drops when the kit is on it could cause the ballasts to goof up, and these lower end kits don't like to re-fire when they're hot. Where I'm going with this is if say the light shuts off in the middle of the night due to voltage fluctuation, I might not have a headlight until the ballast cools! haha

I'm also debating the kick-only gig, I'm not sure what R/R one would use, not sure if I would need a capacitor or mini battery with the points, and something's up with the rings in this turd, I have blow-by out the crank case and the compression isn't great. She's kind of tough to start when she's could... might be kicking for a while, lol. Or carry a can of starting fluid... hah. Eventually it'll get rebuilt with a 650 barrel and custom pistons someday, for now though it's just weakened, still pulls in the 40's for mileage (with the vetter fairing)
 
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musicman said:
I'm also debating the kick-only gig, I'm not sure what R/R one would use, not sure if I would need a capacitor or mini battery with the points,
Click to expand...


A small battery would work, or a capacitor. Don't know anything about the HID lights, but if you turn them on when the engine is already running the voltage should be steady if your charging system is working properly.




musicman said:
and something's up with the rings in this turd, I have blow-by out the crank case and the compression isn't great. She's kind of tough to start when she's could... might be kicking for a while, lol. Or carry a can of starting fluid... hah. Eventually it'll get rebuilt with a 650 barrel and custom pistons someday, for now though it's just weakened, still pulls in the 40's for mileage (with the vetter fairing)
Click to expand...


You have adjusted the valve clearances? Hard cold starts, poor fuel consumption and low compression all point to tight valves.
 
Yeah, went through the valves. I thought that's what it was initially. It's got a lot of blow by into the case, not enough to scare me (had worse, lol), I think I've got a compression ring froze up somewhere. This bike was so neglected when I got it I almost tossed it in the trailer and scrapped it. Sucks the oil too, doesn't leak a drip when it's sitting but it's burned a quart in about 1500 miles of riding last season. It needs to be gone through bad, just not a priority on my list. When I do the motor the frame will get the tabs cut off and everything will get powder coated.
 
Exaggerated the oil usage, went and looked at my remaining oil and it used just over half a quart, not sure why I thought it was more. Anyway though, the engine is weakened and would be tough to kick when it's cold, I have had worse though. Went over the HID kit and made up my mind to put it in the FJ, makes more sense there since I've got a 9 day ride planned for this year, vs the 550 will get ridden now and then on the weekends. Helps with the electronics though.
 
Hah, that cracks me up. I run my Korean Chevy 4-5k miles on an oil change and it doesn't use much of anything, maybe a cup.
 
Lots of progress today for once, this was my only day off, now I get to work 12 days straight before I get 1 day off again.

Did mostly wiring work, got the fuse box finished up, R/R mounted, figured out where I wanted the baby battery and electric flasher (that doesn't seem to flash... cool). Also got the exhaust all bolted down with new bolts, Mac slip-on mufflers, new oe gaskets and plenty of copper anti-seize. Love the mac mufflers, my collectors were rotted out, these sound great, fit great, and I like how they look.

On the battery, it's a tiny little 12v battery I found online, no electric start. Primed the carbs and the old beast came to life after sitting for about a month in a couple kicks. Adjusted the carbs a little and it seems to run good with my current jets, was a little rich before now it acts pretty close. More will be known though when I get it back on the road.

Can't wait to ride this thing again, lots to do first though, like buy new gauges, mount the license plate, build the new seat, finish the headlight, etc.

Crappy cell pics

2013-01-17_18-25-42_66.jpg

2013-01-17_18-25-51_737.jpg
 
Thanks

Ordered some LED bulbs for my chrome bullets, gonna ditch the weird turn signals in the back. The bullets I have came with a weird bulb, 1157 base but a tiny little glass dome, very short, and hard to find. They burned out when the old R/R croaked, hopefully these LEDs I ordered fit, the dimensions seem right... Also ordered 1.9" gauges, LEDs for neutral and oil dummy lights, all in theory the seat is the last big thing. Need to find someone to send it to so it can be done right.
 
Took it for a ride around the block today, felt good to ride this thing again! Cold and wet out, didn't stay on it very long. I have the stock seat on it right now, since I'm going to be taking the blade to the old modified seat. The fork bag looks kind of goofy but it's stuffed with all kinds of stuff, like the tool kit, some extra tools, wire, battery powered soldering iron, solder, wire nuts, a multi-meter, wire strippers, just in case! Everything works, my little LED's in the headlight bucket do their thing, turn signals all work great, no battery and the charging system seems to be able to keep up with the demands even at idle, headlight doesn't go dim like I thought it would. Runs fantastic too, jetting seems really close. Starts cold with a couple kicks too, really happy with it.

2013-02-05_11-26-12_388.jpg

2013-02-05_11-26-02_314.jpg

2013-02-05_11-25-54_367.jpg

2013-02-04_18-03-58_792.jpg


And a running video:
http://s291.photobucket.com/albums/...tion=view&current=2013-02-05_11-37-55_184.mp4
 
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Nice looking bike. Very clean. That fork bag does looks goofy. Would be cool if you could tuck it into the rear triangle of the frame under the seat. Make good use of that space and lighten up the forks a bit.

Nice work!
 
Thanks for the compliments

Good idea with moving the bag under the seat, I'll probably do that.
 
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