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Cam Chain Tensioner Adjustments

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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Hows everybody here!!! :) I did a search to find a related topic, but none too clear on it. I took the tensioner off my 79 GS425L and I put it back on. Now I looked in the manual and was trying to follow on how they install it and am confused. If I was to take it out and start over, how should I begin. Thanks a bunch.
 
With the tensioner removed from the cylinder block loosen the lock nut on the left side of the tensioner and back the slotted bolt out ? turn. Turn the knob on the right side of the tensioner, which in the Suzuki service manual is called a lock shaft handle, counterclock-wise. As you are turning the knob counterclock-wise push the pushrod all the way back. Keep turning the knob until it refuses to turn any further.

With the pushrod still pushed in as far as it will go tighten the slotted bolt so that the pushrod will not plunge out.

Remount the tensioner to the cylinder block. If the tensioner is not going in turn the crankshaft clockwise slowly to get slack in the cam chain on the intake side of the block.

Loosen the slotted bolt ? turn allowing the pushrod to advance towards the cam chain. Tighten the lock nut but leave the slotted bolt loose by that ? turn.

While turning the knob counterclock-wise, slowly rotate the crankshaft in reverse direction, counterclock-wise. This causes the chain to push the pushrod back.

Release the knob and slowly turn the crankshaft in the normal direction, clockwise. You should see the knob rotate as the chain becomes progressively slackened. If it does the pushrod is obviously moving forward under spring pressure signifying the tensioner is in good operable condition. If it moves sluggishly or not at all that means the pushrod or the slotted bolt is sticking. If so remove the tensioner from the block again and inspect the pushrod. It could need cleaning or could be bent or galled. Further crank rotation will take the slack out of the cam chain.
 
Thanks Billy, I understand better about it now. If all that works good, then I just tighten the slotted screw and tighten the locknut until its snug?
 
You want to leave the slotted bolt loose by that 1/4 turn and just tighten the locknut.
 
Hey Billy/Gsers........

I know it is not as thorough of an adjustment but can you at lease adjust the tensioner while its on the bike? I can see access to both sides on my 77gs550. I know I will not have full access to the cam tensioner in order to fully reset the tension, any insight on this...?

I need to get a tool to reach the bolt/nut securing the sloted screw but I can touch the knob on the other side and it has tension on it.....if I turn it, it will snap about a 1/4 turn back. Just doing that seemed to quiet my bike down a little bit but I need to do the full adjustment to get rid of the excess clicking I seem to hear. Any ideas?
 
77gs550 said:
I know it is not as thorough of an adjustment but can you at lease adjust the tensioner while its on the bike?
Click to expand...

It's not as much of an adjustment procedure as just making sure it still functions properly. Some people do turn the knob with the motor running until they hear the chain slapping then let it go back to its tightened position. For most people though it's better to do it the way Suzuki recommends. The problem I see with doing it with the motor running is the possibility of too much chain slack throwing valve timing out of whack enough to have valves hitting pistons. Once you do it one time the way Suzuki recommends you get to where it takes only about 10 minutes to do.
 
My Clymer manual does not go into much detail, perhaps I need to look more. I will need to pull the tank and the carbs to do it right I guess. Read on here that some people got leaks after messing with the tensioner and taking it off. Should I replace anything (gaskets/rubbers) when I pull it as a precaution/regular maintenance, or am I way off?
 
Some have o-rings, mine just has a felt gasket. A little silicon gasket adhesive on the fellt or behing the o-rings should take care of any leaks.
 
quick question guys...do you need to have the carbs off to get at the tensioner?

is there a quick way you can check to see if it is 'tensioning' without removing it?

~Adam
 
No, you do not need to remove the carbs, unless you just want to. I use a 10mm wrench, and a swivel-socket, extension (in a 1/4 inch) and 1/4 dr ratchet. I can get mine out in about 10 minutes tops. :twisted:
 
AOD said:
quick question guys...do you need to have the carbs off to get at the tensioner?

is there a quick way you can check to see if it is 'tensioning' without removing it?

~Adam
Click to expand...
Adam, read Billy's first reply. To check tensioner for proper action, start where it say's "while turning the knob counter-clockwise".
 
Keith, any idea how much 'slack' is allowed in the cam chain? i would say we have...maybe 1/4 inch of movement away from the gears.

~Adam
 
AOD said:
Keith, any idea how much 'slack' is allowed in the cam chain? i would say we have...maybe 1/4 inch of movement away from the gears.

~Adam
Click to expand...
I've never checked the slack on a cam chain that I know has proper tension on it. If you follow the tensioner test procedure and it passes, you should be OK. When you turn the knurled knob AT THE SAME TIME as you turn the motor backwards, the knob will go counter-clockwise about 1/2 turn. Let go of the knob and it should rotate smoothly as you slowly turn the motor forward.
If it's sticking you can check the set screw on the left side to make sure it's adjusted out according to the manual and not dragging on the push rod. Hold the slotted set screw so it won't move and loosen the nut and back the nut off a couple of turns. Now seat the screw and watch CAREFULLY how much it rotates. This way you will know how far out the set screw was. My 1000 manual says the set screw should be out 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
I would go 3/8 or take the whole 1/2 turn but don't go beyond that.
After turning the screw back out, hold it so it won't move and tighten the holding nut. If your tensioner knob still does'nt move smoothly then you have to take it apart and inspect.
 
Keith, good stuff, thank you for the info, others will definitly benefit from it.

I dont think we're going to get to it this weekend...we did get the valve re-shimmed yesterday thanks to a very cooperative Suzuki dealer who let us trade shims for free. sadly, the RealGasket i got for 77-82 GS 550's is not made correctly. :(

today i was going to change the oil and filter and plugs and maybe if we have time we can look at the tensioner.

~Adam
 
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