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Cam Chain tensioner gasket

  • Thread starter Thread starter amontyg
  • Start date Start date
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amontyg

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I have an oil leak which I believe is coming from around my cam chain tensioner. Is it possible to remove the tensioner and replace the gasket without an engine tear down? It appears to be a relatively simple remove and replace thing.

Any thoughts?

Also, is there ever any adjustment that needs to be made to the tensioner?
 
Yes, it is quite possible to service the cam chain tensioner without engine tear-down. On many models it's even possible without removing the carbs. At this point in your bike's life you probably want to re-build it. It's a relatively painless process, and the parts are cheap.

From BassCliff's site you can find links to Mr. Bwringer's tutorials, which includes cam chain tensioner rebuild one. Or here's a direct link:

http://www.bwringer.com/gs/camchaintens.html
 
I replaced a cam chain tensioner on my '82 GS1100E. Very tight space to work with. It wasn't easy and it wasn't much fun, but it can be done with with a stock airbox. Just be sure to retract that rod all the way in otherwise it won't go in all the way.
Haven't tried to do that with my GS1000, anyway, I just can't wait to not do that again.
 
I suggest setting the engine to 1-4 T position on the crank and pulling the valve cover to make sure the cam chain doesn't jump time when the tensioner is removed. A good opportunity to adjust the valves at the same time of course.

Good luck
 
Ed, could you provide a picture of that somehow please so we have something to reference when trying it? Especially since it might be a few weeks to a month before I can get to it.
 
Alas, the OP did not say which bike he's working with. On the 550s there are only two bolts holding on the tensioner; the top bolt is the hard one but falls between the center carbs IIRC.
 
amontyg said:
I have an oil leak which I believe is coming from around my cam chain tensioner. Is it possible to remove the tensioner and replace the gasket without an engine tear down? It appears to be a relatively simple remove and replace thing.

Any thoughts?

Also, is there ever any adjustment that needs to be made to the tensioner?
Click to expand...
Is this on your Suzuki or your Toyota? :-k

OK, since this is a Suzuki-based site, we'll assume it's for a Suzuki. :o

Which one? :-k

OK, it doesn't really matter, as long as it's a GS.

Oh, yeah, it's a GS-based site. :o

You will have to remove the carbs for better access.

Adjustment? As long as it is installed correctly, there should be no further adjustment. The "trick" is to install it correctly.

Push the plunger in, lock it in place. Install the tensioner to the block. Release the lock on the plunger, snug the lock bolt, then back it off 1/2 turn and lock it in place with the lock nut.

.
 
Thank you all for your responses, sorry for not giving my bike info. I am dealing with a 82 GS 550LZ. Is there anything special that I should know or do for this model?
 
You can put your bike info in your sig (see the User CP link) and that will make it hard to forget to include it!

That bike seems familiar... :-k

Nothing special really. Other than their bolt pattern and slight changes in orientation, the tensioners are all the same. You CAN get the top bolt out without removing the carbs with the right extensions and flex adapters, but it's easier if you pull the carbs off. Depends upon how much you hate pulling the carbs...

Ed's suggestion is sound. Set the timing on the bike before pulling the tensioner. Though, if you do it right, there should be no risk of you skipping a tooth or anything like that.
 
Recently did this on my 1000. Pretty simple, didn't bother to set the timing on mine first, but it won't hurt to do it and won't take long. Pull, disassemble, clean, rebuild and reinstall in a couple hours if you have the parts. 1 o-ring, 1 seal, and 1 gasket, available from dealer. DO NOT TURN THE ENGINE OVER WITH THE TENSIONER REMOVED! Here's the thread from when I did mine. http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=177068
 
My suggestion to pull the valve cover and confirm the timing doesn't jump is the conservative method. As mentioned, it's a good opportunity to check the valves too. Most newbies never adjust the valves on their bikes so this is like killing two birds with one stone.
 
Use Loctite on the 6mm Nut

Use Loctite on the 6mm Nut

Don't forget to use Loctite on the 6mm nut that holds the knurled knob in place. Even though I did mine up securely it still came undone with the engine vibrations and I lost it and the knurled knob and the clatter that was coming from the engine was unbelievable. I ended stripping the motor down again to check if I had bent any valves or damaged the pistons in any way.
 
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