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Cam chain tensioner...o-ring or seals inside?

KEITH KRAUSE

KEITH KRAUSE

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Hi guys. The cam chain tensioner on my '79 1000E was stuck. So I loosened the nut that holds the screw and I turned the screw out about 1/8 turn and I could see the tensioner move forward. I guess it was not out far enough. The manual says to turn the screw out 1/4 to 1/2 turn initially.
I decided to try turning the screw out because the tensioner failed the operating test as described in the manual. I think it's working now, but now it's leaking as my reward for playing with it. :?
It is leaking at the set screw/nut and at the other side somewhere under the spring, very close to the large hex.
Has anyone taken these apart? Is there a seal or o-ring I can replace? Any tips on what to look for or be careful of when taking apart? My local Suzuki dealer (on the phone) said there was 1 o-ring in his drawing, but it was probably not the cause of the leak? Any advice much appreciated.
 
I am really operating on memory here..last time I looked inside one of these was...hmmm....20 years ago!. There are no real tricks. If it is the original one look at the angled surface at the end of the pushrod. My original tensioner dented into the surface, leading to a sticky tensioner. I can't recall any o rings, and I havent done anything special to stop leaks. I grease the internals every year or so by removing the rod and inserting grease.

Depending on how you go, I may leave mine well enough alone!!
 
cam chain tensioner

cam chain tensioner

Keith i just changed the seal and o ring on mine, i dont know if its the same but most of these are.Theres a oring on the sets screw shaft that sounds like its leaking also there is a seal on the shaft of the large knurled knob (also suspect) there is also a o ring under the large nut under the knurled knob (i doubt this is leaking) unles the nut was loosened. My bike is a 1980 gs750L (tscc motor). check bike bandit for diagrams,also note that some of the suzuki diagrams fo some of the years dont always show all these parts. Good luck (ps mine does not leak any more
 
Hi. I'm not really sure the tensioner is working. With the engine off and cold, if I try to turn the tensioner counter-clockwise, it feels stuck at first. Shoud'nt it move fairly easily or is it normal to feel some resistance at first? To make it move backwards easily, do you also HAVE to turn the engine backwards with a wrench? If this thing is bad, I would just have to go out and buy a new one. I would much rather just replace the seals.
By the way, I'm guessing I should loosen that large hex before taking it off the head? Should I turn in the set screw to lock the rod in position before removing?
 
Keith, mine is the same way feels stuck at first, so i think this is ok,as the the job of the tensioner is to go foward only to take up chain slack. if it went backwards it would let the cam chain become loose,and what a mess that would be>!!! And yes lock the set screw before removing or you will be sorry as the pusrod will go flying. on mine the big nut would not come loose so i left it alone since it was not leaking there anyway.the only other advise i can give is to payattention to the amount of turns on the return spring of the big knob as you will need to preload it again when you change the seal on the shaft. The big nut does not need to come off to do this
 
if it went backwards it would let the cam chain become loose,and what a mess that would be>!!!
Click to expand...
That is exactly the problem with stock chain tensioners. This is precisely why racers use a manual one - the stock do move back - and not just broken tensioners.
 
Well after playing with my tensioner for awhile I have learned a few things about my tensioner off of a !980 GS1000G.
The dealers do not have a complete breakdown of all the components in the tensioner.
I had to get the dealer to look at a later model to see the 2 0-rings and 1 seal in the tensioner, so I could order them.
I found the breakdown on Bike Bandit. (Check out 1984 GS1100)
The tensioner is preaty easy to take apart and get back together. Once I had it off the bike and apart I just played with the spring tension and plunger untill the plunger worked properly.
Good luck
Rob
 
Two weeks ago I went to the trouble of pulling my tensioner to see if it was working properly since I was beginning to hear a ticking noise from the center of the engine. Everything checked out, I reinstalled it closely following the directions and when finished, the motor made more ticking noise than before.

I wound up getting an APE manual tensioner. No more ticking.

Jeff
 
I really appreciate the replies! I've never ordered anything from Bikebandit, but I'll check them out.
So there will be an o-ring for the left side set screw, and an o-ring and a seal on the right side. To get to the right side, I just count the # of spring turns before removing, and then take off the small nut. This will give me access to the seal, but if I want to replace the right side o-ring, I'll have to loosen the large hex? And on the left side, the o-ring will be on the set screw shaft?
Also, just curious. How do manual tensioners apply the correct amount of tension? Are they available?
 
I had mine out of My GSX750S2 Katana engine I belive is as GSX 750 esd or ESX and there was only a small gasket (about 40p: 60cents in your money)
 
I did not order from Bike Bandit. I just looked the parts p on Bike Bandit. I got the parts from my Susuki dealer.
The manual units units sound interesting although they have to be adjusted from time ot time.
I found that when I got my unit off, I set the spring up so that it applied good presure when the plunger was extended and was not over-tight when the plungerwas retracted.
If you are afraid of the plunger backing out then I beleive ( not recomended) you can lock it down using the scew and nut on the side. You can also apply more presure manually by turning the wheel in the same direction the spring is applying it presure. (Not recomended also).
I had no problems or issues after I put mine back in.
The units work on mechanical advantage and under normal (not racing) conditions seem to work ok.
I only took mine apart as the seals were gone and it was leaking.
Regards,
Rob
 
Hi again. To change the o-ring on the set screw shaft, and then the seal on the "right" side, do I have to take the tensioner off the bike?
Can I just unhook the spring, relieving tension, then count the # of turns to take out the set screw shaft, replace the o-ring, then take off the right side nut to get to the seal?
 
i think it would be best to remove the tensioner and check the surface on the angled face if it has been marked it will make the tensioner jam it was always a minor problem on gs's it would be alot easier to put theseal in as well
ozman
 
These are the adjustment instructions that came with my manual tensioner:
"To set the tensioner adjustment, rotate the engine forward while screwing the tensioner in. When you feel the engine tensioner parts make contact with the moving cam chain, back the tensioner bolt up 1/4 turn and tighten jam nut."

I got mine from Sudco for $50. They can also be ordered directly from APE for $47 ( http://www.gszone.biz/sprockets.html ).

Good Luck,

Jeff
 
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