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Cam Chain Tentioner

  • Thread starter Thread starter Boozy Creek Beast
  • Start date Start date
B

Boozy Creek Beast

Guest
I have a 1980 1100E with a 1166 Kit That runs fantastic. I put a manual cam chain tentioner on it during the rebuild. I have checked most of the recent threads on adjusting it but it seam to make an excessive amount of noise. How much noise should I be hearing. With a metal sprocket, metal chain and a nylon tentioner I expect to hear it but with nothing to compair it to it I am not sure what to expect.

P.S.
I put 350 miles on it yesterday and wow what a differance that 1166 kit makes.

The Beast
 
Boozy Creek Beast said:
I have a 1980 1100E with a 1166 Kit That runs fantastic. I put a manual cam chain tentioner on it during the rebuild. I have checked most of the recent threads on adjusting it but it seam to make an excessive amount of noise. How much noise should I be hearing. With a metal sprocket, metal chain and a nylon tentioner I expect to hear it but with nothing to compair it to it I am not sure what to expect.

P.S.
I put 350 miles on it yesterday and wow what a differance that 1166 kit makes.

The Beast
Click to expand...

You should get about the same sound level as before with the "automatic" tensioner. The only difference between the manual and the auto is that the spring tension "automatically" determines the force on the cam chain where the manual is set "manually" by you. The manual has the advantage of less parts and will not back out accidently under load.

Are you sure it's louder or are you just paranoid because of the new rebuild? :-D

That 1166 kit does make a big difference! It's sweet!

Hap
 
Pull the plugs and loosen the locknut and as you crank it over with the starter use your fingers and tighting the bolt. Then tighting the locknut. If it's still making alot of noise then I'd pull the cam cover and start looking everything over.
 
Thanks for the advice. As Hap says I may just be paranoid because of the new rebuild? Before I did the work I could hear the Cam chain I guess I just thought it was supposed to make a little less noise.

Hap,
I haven't seen you around the GSR lately. I thought you might be in the dessert. Glad to see your back.

The Beast
 
Boozy Creek Beast said:
Thanks for the advice. As Hap says I may just be paranoid because of the new rebuild? Before I did the work I could hear the Cam chain I guess I just thought it was supposed to make a little less noise.

Hap,
I haven't seen you around the GSR lately. I thought you might be in the dessert. Glad to see your back.

The Beast
Click to expand...

Trying to become a social creature again...thanks for the welcome back!

Jake's advice is spot on.

Hap
 
One thing to remember with a manual adjuster is the rear guide is under alot of stress when backing off the throttle at high rpm's. The oem guide can break in two, thats why I use a unbreakable guide now.... happen to me, that's what they say anyhow.
 
RacingJake said:
Pull the plugs and loosen the locknut and as you crank it over with the starter use your fingers and tighting the bolt. Then tighting the locknut. If it's still making alot of noise then I'd pull the cam cover and start looking everything over.
Click to expand...

I adjust mine by hand also but with the cover off. I rock the engine back and forth till I get most of the slack out and call it good. For some reason I want to see and feel how tight the chain is.

Your point about the guide is good. I would also recommend that you change the chain every time you pull it down. Just cheap insurance.
 
In order to change the nylon slack adjuster how far down to you have to disassemble the engine. I finally got her running like the Beast she is and would hate to have to take her apart again. I am planning to replace the slack adjuster along with having the crank welded once the season is over. Hope she last that long!!!!

The Beast
 
Boozy Creek Beast said:
In order to change the nylon slack adjuster how far down to you have to disassemble the engine. I finally got her running like the Beast she is and would hate to have to take her apart again. I am planning to replace the slack adjuster along with having the crank welded once the season is over. Hope she last that long!!!!

The Beast
Click to expand...

The top end (down to the cylinder block) is all that has to come off. You wouldn't even need to pull the engine.
 
You only need to remove the intake camshaft, and have a 12" extension to change that blade,would be a very good idea to have a magnetic pickup tool down in there to stop the bolt "vanishing"

Dink
 
Dink said:
You only need to remove the intake camshaft, and have a 12" extension to change that blade,would be a very good idea to have a magnetic pickup tool down in there to stop the bolt "vanishing"

Dink
Click to expand...

I have never tried this, but I thought that the bottom mount was wider than the casting. I know my Pogue block was real tight and had to be cleaned up to get the tensioner to fit. The new MTC block is even worse. You could try it, worst case is that you have to pull it apart anyway.
 
I have always adjusted mine the same way Lecroy suggested. Take the valve cover and tighten the chain adjuster until you have just barely detectable slack in the chain. Rock the crank back and forth to feel and see the slack. Turn the crank and check it in a few different positions in case the chain has stretched unevenly.......If you still have noise, find and fix it, it should be quiet. You did install the front guide right??....This is the one I used to call the "dipshi*t stick" cause I would always forget to put it in before installing the exhaust cam. And it wont go in with the exhaust cam installed....Lecroys method is what I recommend.......BadBillyB
 
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