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Cam Tensioner issue !!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter Tim
  • Start date Start date
T

Tim

Guest
1979 GS850GN
I rebuilt the cam tensioner using bwringers instructions. I must have done something wrong. When I fired the bike up there was this clackety sound, like dragging a bicycle chain over the chain guard. The bike ran for about 3 to 4 seconds worst case 5 seconds before I shut it off. Other than the sound it was making the motor was running ok. Obviously I need to take the tensioner back off, my question is do you think that those 3 maybe 5 seconds caused any damage to the motor ??!?!?!? Also what are the common mistakes ? I'm not sure what I did wrong ? The lock screw was completely removed after installing because I forgot to put the washer back on. So I believe the pushrod was released. When I put the pushrod into the tensioner during re-assembly I used that flat spot in the pushrod for the lock screw. This just happen tonight, I've learned in the past to walk away and re-visit tomorrow night. As always thanks in advance for your help.
 
When you reinstalled the tensioner did you turn the knob on the tensioner counterclockwise and rotate the engine by hand counterclockwise off the right end of the crank? After that did you release the knob and turn the engine clockwise and watch to see if the knob rotated on its own? Sounds like the pushrod is binding.
 
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When you reinstall the tensioner, you should turn the engine over in the normal direction and watch for the tensioner to 'sprong' out or take up the slack. I would suggest pulling the valve cover to see how well your tensioner is working by checking the chain tension.
BTW, I gave up on mine after a couple rebuilds and got a manual one.
 
It's very, very common for people to mistakenly tighten the lock screw all the way. You have to back it out half a turn from the pushrod, then lock it in place with the locknut -- don't let the lock screw turn back in and bind the pushrod.

Also, did you leave the pushrod spring out? And is the tension spring (the one on the outside of the tensioner) wound in the correct direction?
 
After releasing the push rod I bottomed the lock screw and then backed it out 1/2 turn and then locked it in place with the nut. I'm absolutely sure the push rod spring is in there, besides I had two laying on my tool bench (I ordered a new one) and now there's only one. The tensioner knob turns clockwise and then snaps back (counter clockwise). Is that backwards ??
 
If you turn the knob counterclockwise (as if unscrewing it), the spring should snap it back. If you think of the shaft as a bolt, the spring tension should be keeping it slightly tight.
 
Thinking of it as a screw mine is keeping it loose. It snaps back counter clockwise. I added one full turn to the spring. Are you saying I turned it the wrong way then ???? So to the other question do you think my motor is ok seeing it only ran for a couple seconds ?
 
Hi Mr. Tim,

As I'll be servicing my cam chain tensioner soon, this is what I've collected on my website:

Cam Chain Tensioner Repair

Q. If I had the chain tensioner off my '80 GS1100E and I turned the bike over briefly without thinking....how bad is that? The chain guide where the tensioner pushes has 'moved' so that I cannot get the tensioner back on. Help!

Depends on several things. If the chain jumped sprockets on the cams they are out of time and may have possibly bent valves. At this point you need to pull the valve cover and confirm the cams are still timed at TDC. Then if all is well you need to reinstall the tensioner the way the factory intended.

Loosen the lock nut on the left side of the tensioner and back the slotted bolt out 1/4 turn. Turn the knob on the right side of the tensioner, which in the Suzuki service manual is called a lock shaft handle, counterclock-wise. As you are turning the knob counterclock-wise push the pushrod all the way back. Keep turning the knob until it refuses to turn any further.

With the pushrod still pushed in as far as it will go tighten the slotted bolt so that the pushrod will not plunge out.

Remount the tensioner to the cylinder block. If the tensioner is not going in turn the crankshaft clockwise slowly to get slack in the cam chain on the intake side of the block.

Loosen the slotted bolt 1/4 turn allowing the pushrod to advance towards the cam chain. Tighten the lock nut but leave the slotted bolt loose by that 1/4 turn.

While turning the knob counterclock-wise, slowly rotate the crankshaft in reverse direction, counterclock-wise. This causes the chain to push the pushrod back.

Release the knob and slowly turn the crankshaft in the normal direction, clockwise. You should see the knob rotate as the chain becomes progressively tighter. If it does the pushrod is obviously moving forward under spring pressure signifying the tensioner is in good operable condition. If it moves sluggishly or not at all that means the pushrod or the slotted bolt is sticking. If so remove the tensioner from the block again and inspect the pushrod. It could need cleaning or could be bent or galled. Further crank rotation will take the slack out of the cam chain.
Reset Cam Chain Tensioner
Originaly posted by Mr. TheCafeKid

If you dont have another gasket, pull it off carefully, try not to damage the gasket. If you don't have another, and you mess the gasket up, make one out of some light cardboard (it will work just fine.) and reset it. While you have it off, inspect and clean it up. When you reset it, loosen the nut, loosen the set screw. Turn the knob out, while pushing in on the tensioner rod untill its all the way in. Lock down the set screw, and light tighten the nut. Install the tensioner, and after you have it torqued down, loosen the nut, and the set screw. The tensioner should then pop into place. You should see the knob turn back in a bit. Might help to rotate the engine by hand a time or two. Then, tighten the set screw, back it off a 1/2 turn, and while holding it in that spot, tighten the nut. The set screw should NOT be in all the way tight.

Mr. Billy Ricks adds:

With the tensioner removed from the cylinder block loosen the lock nut on the left side of the tensioner and back the slotted bolt out 1/4 turn. Turn the knob on the right side of the tensioner, which in the Suzuki service manual is called a lock shaft handle, counterclock-wise. As you are turning the knob counterclock-wise push the pushrod all the way back. Keep turning the knob until it refuses to turn any further.

With the pushrod still pushed in as far as it will go tighten the slotted bolt so that the pushrod will not plunge out.

Remount the tensioner to the cylinder block. If the tensioner is not going in turn the crankshaft clockwise slowly to get slack in the cam chain on the intake side of the block.

Loosen the slotted bolt 1/4 turn allowing the pushrod to advance towards the cam chain. Tighten the lock nut but leave the slotted bolt loose by that 1/4 turn.

Here's how to service the tensioner:

While turning the knob counterclock-wise, slowly rotate the crankshaft in reverse direction, counterclock-wise. This causes the chain to push the pushrod back.

Release the knob and slowly turn the crankshaft in the normal direction, clockwise. You should see the knob rotate as the chain becomes progressively tighter. If it does the pushrod is obviously moving forward under spring pressure signifying the tensioner is in good operable condition. If it moves sluggishly or not at all that means the pushrod or the slotted bolt is sticking. If so remove the tensioner from the block again and inspect the pushrod. It could need cleaning or could be bent or galled. Further crank rotation will take the slack out of the cam chain.



Also see Mr. bwringer's cam chain tensioner service article here: http://bwringer.com/gs/camchaintens.html


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
I think my problem is I wound the tension spring the wrong direction. If you turn the knob clockwise it snaps back counter clockwise. Everybody please say a prayer that I didn't cause an even bigger mess. I'm getting ready to put my kids to bed, after that I'm going out to the garage to tear the old girl down again. I'll let you know what I find.

Oh please lord protect me from my own stupidity !!!!!

My stable.........
1979 GS850G
2006 ST1300
1995 Z28 ( yeah I know not a bike but it's still one of my babies)
 
Tim said:
I think my problem is I wound the tension spring the wrong direction. If you turn the knob clockwise it snaps back counter clockwise. Everybody please say a prayer that I didn't cause an even bigger mess. I'm getting ready to put my kids to bed, after that I'm going out to the garage to tear the old girl down again. I'll let you know what I find.

Oh please lord protect me from my own stupidity !!!!!

My stable.........
1979 GS850G
2006 ST1300
1995 Z28 ( yeah I know not a bike but it's still one of my babies)
Click to expand...
I'll say a prayer for your valves.
 
Put the tensioner back together the right way, then remove the ignition cover and rotate the engine with the 19mm hex through a couple of revolutions. If you don't hear anything awful, and it doesn't meet any excess resistance, you may have gotten away with it...

If you really want to make sure, remove the valve cover and place the engine at TDC on 1 & 4. Then look at the notches on the ends of the camshafts. They should either be pointing at each other and parallel with the cylinder head, or pointing straight away from one another. If one of the camshafts skipped a tooth, it's very obvious.

How to find TDC: http://bwringer.com/gs/tdc.html
 
Ok..........I put the engine in TDC 1 & 4 and this is what I saw. I haven't put the bike back together to test start yet but I think this is encouraging. Please take a look at the picture and tell me do you think the timing chain skipped any teeth ?? Thanks again for all your help. BWringer I went back and looked at your instructions and realize if I would have followed it to the letter I wouldn't have this problem Thank you Sir.
 
Tim said:
Ok..........I put the engine in TDC 1 & 4 and this is what I saw. I haven't put the bike back together to test start yet but I think this is encouraging. Please take a look at the picture and tell me do you think the timing chain skipped any teeth ?? Thanks again for all your help. BWringer I went back and looked at your instructions and realize if I would have followed it to the letter I wouldn't have this problem Thank you Sir.
Click to expand...
Looks like standard production line variance there. If it was off a tooth notch would be further off. It doesn't mean they didn't both get out of time as the chain slackened but chances are you're good to go.
 
Tim said:
So you think I'll have to probably reset my timing ?
Click to expand...
If you have already installed the tensioner again with the spring right and that's how your cams are situated you are probably good to go.
 
Yes that picture is with the tensioner installed CORRECTLY this time. So the clackety sounds I was hearing was probably the loose chain flapping around in there ? When I put her back together and start her up tonight will be the real test. By the way thanks for the Valves Prayer Billy Ricks. I must have selpt through that one in Sunday School. Ha Ha Ha !!!!
 
IT'S ALIVE .....IT'S ALIVE !!!!!!!!!!!! (screaming like Dr. Frankenstein). I put the old girl back together and she ran exactly like she did before I rebuilt the tensioner. Thanks Bwringer, Billy Ricks, Basscliff and Chef 1366 !!!!!!!! I am one Happy Camper right now !!!!! :lol:
 
YES !!! I feel like I should sacrifice a goat or a valve spring !!! what ever
 
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