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Can I set the carbs or do I have to sell it?

  • Thread starter Thread starter wirelessguy
  • Start date Start date
W

wirelessguy

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I look to the group to see if I can't get my bike over the hump to getting done or if I'll have to end up parting with it.

MY situation...
82' GS1100EZ
Tried to clean carbs but air screws gave me trouble. Replaced with Carbs from 1150. I rejetted as I have a sidewinder pip on now.
(Bike originally had a street pipe and rear airbox removed._
I removed the entire airbox and put in a set of pods.

I don't know much about Stage 1 vs stage 2 but I feel that my bike may be running lean and that perhaps I didn't factor for both the change in pipe and the pods.

How exactly would I test any of this? Is there a way to choke the carbs but at the same time try to close the flaps/vales down somehow so that I'm not sucking in too much air?

Here's a video of the bike running...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gbHt4ZtQl54

You can hear that it goes put-put.

If anyone other there lived in southern NYS and might be able to help me get past this issue I could actually have a running bike!


Thanks in advance for any advice.
 
Last edited:
Order a Dynojet kit and install the stage 3 components.

If you old carbs aren't too butchered I might be interested in buying them from you...
 
I found some more info.

Here are the jets that I bought and installed...
MIKUNI 4/PK PILOT JET BS30/96 #47.5 BS30/96-47.5 4/PK
 
This is a good question for rapidray. He builds and runs both 1100E and 1150E engines, he should know the numbers.
 
Hi,

Order a Dynojet kit and install the stage 3 components.

Yes, with a pipe and pods you will need the Stage 3 jetkit from Dynojet. Follow the directions to the letter. It will get you close. Then tune as necessary.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Not exactly, BassCliff. Those are 1150 (BS36) carbs on an 1100 (BS34). And the bike has pods, and a pipe. It would most likely need the Stage 3 settings, which is fine because the Stage 3 set comes with both Stage 1 and Stage 3. But it might need some of the Stage 1 settings because those carbs flow more air. And the DynoJet kit does not come with pilot jets, which he probably will need. I am positive that it will work, but the numbers will most likely be different.
wirelessguy, I suggest you call or PM rapidray. He knows lots of stuff.
 
Im no expert but just out of curiosity, even though the carbs flow more air it will have less velocity. Just wondering how that will figure in as far as fuel draw in the carb. Maybe its not enough of a change to even matter. Id like to know because Ive been thinking about doing the same thing on my 1100 Katana. Inquiring minds want to know
 
Yes, the flow characteristics are most likely different. Why don't you contact rapidray and ask him? I am certain he has the numbers committed to memory.
 
dynojet stage 3 needles and 138 mains, everything else stock,fuel mix at 2.5-3.5,floats at 23mm.works for me,doesnt take much choke to start it up.altitude makes a difference and use the search feature ,it's been discussed many times here:)
plug chope are important but with pods and pipe u NEED stage 3
runs like a scalded ape,friendly round town and smoooooth
 
Im no expert but just out of curiosity, even though the carbs flow more air it will have less velocity. Just wondering how that will figure in as far as fuel draw in the carb. Maybe its not enough of a change to even matter. Id like to know because Ive been thinking about doing the same thing on my 1100 Katana. Inquiring minds want to know



your physics are correct. as you would increase the size of the bore of the carb, you will decrease the velocity. but fluid dynamics state that as a fluid moves, its pressure decreases. so a bigger carb will slow velocity, and kill the low pressure venturi effect that sucks the gas through the jets and out of the float bowl.

im new to bikes, but im pretty sure they dont violate the laws of physics.:p
hope that satisfies your inquiry. if it doesnt, then we are alike;)
 
Hi,

Not exactly, BassCliff. Those are 1150 (BS36) carbs on an 1100 (BS34).

Thanks for the clarification. I should've double-checked any carb differences between the two bikes. :o


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
your physics are correct. as you would increase the size of the bore of the carb, you will decrease the velocity. but fluid dynamics state that as a fluid moves, its pressure decreases. so a bigger carb will slow velocity, and kill the low pressure venturi effect that sucks the gas through the jets and out of the float bowl.

im new to bikes, but im pretty sure they dont violate the laws of physics.:p
hope that satisfies your inquiry. if it doesnt, then we are alike;)
I agree up to a point. Since the area of the circle can be calculated as
A = pi * r*r (pi r squared) where r = 1/2 d (A = area, r = radius, d = diameter, pi = 3.14)
for the 34 mm carbs A = 289 * pi
for the 36 mm carbs A = 324 * pi
Since pi is a constant for both, we can remove it from the equation to find a difference of 35. This is slightly more than a 10% increase.
I suggest that rather than use the word "kill" you should use the word "decrease".
This is why rejetting using the correct numbers is so important. You have made a mod that decreases the venturi effect. Therefore, you want to rejet with numbers that will increase the venturi effect to compensate.
 
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