• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Can you change fork oil w/o taking forks off????

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

Guest
I wanted to change my fork oil, Can I just loosen the drains and pump old oil out??? Then do I just pour the new stuff in the top??? Also if I wanted to add the PVC spacer to firm them up a bit is this just in the top over the springs also???? Sorry if this sounds stupid but the forks kind of intimidate me right now (lots of parts on the diagram when they are apart)... :oops:
 
Oh yeah. You don't have to remove the forks, just open the drain at the bottom and let it drain out. Make sure the front end is supported before pulling the top caps off, or you might lose an eye when the preload adjuster comes loose! A PVC spacer will work fine for adding some more preload. Yes, just put it on top of the spring, you're just trying to preload the spring a little more.
 
I wanted to change my fork oil, Can I just loosen the drains and pump old oil out???
Click to expand...

That would be step 1. Then fill and flush with kerosene, Varsol, diesel, etc. to get the gunk out. You will be amazed at the sludge that has accumulated over time. When you put in your solvent, stroke the the forks up and down by hand a few times to slosh things around and dislodge the junk at the bottom.

Then do I just pour the new stuff in the top???
Click to expand...

Yup. The levels specified in the manual are set when holding the fork vertical, though, so you need to tinker a bit to get it right. It is more important to have both legs the same than be exactly at the manual levels.

Also if I wanted to add the PVC spacer to firm them up a bit is this just in the top over the springs also????
Click to expand...

Yes. It is best to add a washer over the spring then the PVC, but it is not essential.

Sorry if this sounds stupid but the forks kind of intimidate me right now (lots of parts on the diagram when they are apart)
Click to expand...

They look spooky, but once you have had one apart, you will see how simple they really are.

How are your seals? Bushings? If things have not been apart for many years it would be worthwhile changing out all of these to give your fork a fresh start this year. Maybe not necessary, but a real nice bonus when you get riding a lot. When I changed the bushings in my 1100 this spring, they were completely worn out. I was glad I did it after seeing the shape they were in.


Mark
 
The seals are good. I just wanted to firm these up a bit only need to run these for about a month. I actually have a complete set of new(er) forks that I am sending away for awhile to be rebuilt and lowered by 3 inches. To complement the streetfighter look I am going for.
 
HIJACK....

HIJACK....

HIJACK....
but its on topic so i don't feel too guilty.
Can you replace the fork seals with the forks on the bike?
I was under the ipression I had to remove them from the bike to do it?

Thanks,
Anthony
 
Can you replace the fork seals with the forks on the bike?
I was under the ipression I had to remove them from the bike to do it?
Click to expand...

No, yes. You can MAYBE replace them without disassembling the forks, but that is a bitch to do sometimes. For the time it takes, I will pull the forks apart every time. I also like having a look inside to see if everything looks OK. But that's just me being paranoid and picky... :)

Mark
 
So when I pull the air valve caps off does the spring shoot out???? With a search there seems top be mutiple perceptions. Have the front wheel unweighted??? or Have the front wheel up but supported by something???
 
So when I pull the air valve caps off does the spring shoot out????
Click to expand...

Maybe. It depends on how much preload there is on the springs. I would definitely elevate the front end so that the forks are fully extended and the front wheel in the air. On my 1100 there was maybe 10mm of preload and hardly any force on the cap. Be sure to press downwards on the cap as you remove it to prevent the spring force from stripping the last couple of threads out if it is loaded at all. I would bet it won't be a problem, but better safe than sorry.

Have the front wheel up but supported by something???
Click to expand...

Not necessary. If you use your centerstand or jackstands or whatever to get the front end in the air it will be fine. The front wheel can't go anywhere with the forks assembled, spring or no.

Mark
 
sparks said:
So when I pull the air valve caps off does the spring shoot out???? With a search there seems top be mutiple perceptions. Have the front wheel unweighted??? or Have the front wheel up but supported by something???
Click to expand...

If you plan to pull the guts from the bottom you'lll need a fast impact wrench and a 8mm socket down there. Leave the cap on the spring on top to hold them in place while you work the 8mm bolt at the bottom. Suzuki of course has a special tool but not worth buying unless your a shop.
 
OK Jethro,

On the 1100. What diameter pvc and how long? Sounds like a great idea. I'd like to try it after changing my fork oil.

Thanks,
Chris

PS: I bought 30w fork oil from the dealer, before looking at my Haynes. It says to use 15w. Do I need to take it back and exchange it?
 
Is there a limit to the length of pvc you can use??? I know with in reason so no one put like 3meters. I am thinking 2-3 inches ????
 
?

On the 83 GS110E, it has the anti-dive and direct underneath axle setup. Where do you drain the fork oil from? Remove the antidive thingy, or the little phillips head screw next to it. The screw looks like it may take forever.

Thanks,
Chris
 
stiksave said:
OK Jethro,

On the 1100. What diameter pvc and how long? Sounds like a great idea. I'd like to try it after changing my fork oil.

Thanks,
Chris

PS: I bought 30w fork oil from the dealer, before looking at my Haynes. It says to use 15w. Do I need to take it back and exchange it?
Click to expand...

Unles you want really stiff forks i would use the 15w. I did and it works for me
 
On the 83 GS110E, it has the anti-dive and direct underneath axle setup. Where do you drain the fork oil from? Remove the antidive thingy, or the little phillips head screw next to it. The screw looks like it may take forever.
Click to expand...

Your drain screw, like mine I believe, is directly above the axle. take the two nuts off the buttom axle studs. I usually remove the axle and wheel first, but your choice. with those four nuts removed, take the semi-circle retaining collar off, along with the cylindrical axle spacer. then you'll see the hole with the drain plug in it.

hope that helps.

P.S. If I were you, and if you're not looking to keep the stock look, I'd simplify your braking system and forks by removing the anti-dive system completely. PM me if you'd like more instructions/dimensions.
 
OK, thanks. Let's see.
1) Take the oil back and get 15w fork oil.
2)Pull the front wheel to get at the drain plugs
3)Figure out the diameter of pvc needed after openening the top of fork leg ( just looking for a hint on length to add).

One more ? Isn't all automotive oil anti foaming? Otherwise any oil pumped in an air enviroment would turn into a smoothie. (crankcase,power steering,etc) Just a thought invoked by paying 8 bucks for a 1ltr bottle of official fork oil.

Thanks,
Chris
 
Your drain screw, like mine I believe, is directly above the axle. take the two nuts off the buttom axle studs.
Click to expand...

Nope. The drain screw is a small Phillips head screw on the side of the fork leg. It is located just to the front side of the rebound adjuster housing, about midway up the bulge where the rebound adjuster is housed. The screw you are talking about is an 8mm (I think, going from memory here) socket head cap screw and it is the damper rod bolt that holds the damper rod in place inside the fork leg. Undo this bolt and your forks will fall apart. Which I gather is more work than you wanted to have on your hands at this point in time... :)


Mark
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top