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Can you please help another first time owner

  • Thread starter Thread starter apacalypse
  • Start date Start date
A

apacalypse

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Hello, I bought a 1982 GS650GL for $175.00. Not a bad deal. So i got it running when i brought it home. But it ran pretty rough so i thought i would clean the carbs. I dont think it has been rode for a few years. Well I went ahead and took each carb apart one at a time to keep everything together. I didnt replace any thing other than orings of the hose nipples ect. It really wasnt that bad just a little dirty but no gunk in it. I cleaned all holes i could find and took all screws out very carefully. Im sure that probably wasnt a good idea. I learned more after the fact from GS. Any way I put the carbs back in and got it running enough to try to adjust the air screws. But then all of a sudden i couldnt get it to start again. So I have been trying to figure out what the heck. I bought some new plugs and starter fluid. When I sprayed the starter fluid it would start then die. Im thinking that its not getting any gas for some reason. The plugs are dry. So I took the carbs off again. Thats where I am now. I just wish I could find a picture of my carbs telling what every thing is so Ill know what all to adjust. can someone please help me. [-o< Im about ready to take it to a mech. But I would rather learn to do it my self.... Oh Ya I did buy a battery for it and its getting low but I have been using a jumper that i have. I would think that would work.. I do have a clymer coming in the mail but havent seen it yet. Im sure it will help
Any advise will help I have been searching for days on the forum but havent really seen what im looking for. thanks in advance Brandy
 
You have a vacuum activated petcock. Make sure you have gase flow while applying vacuum to the smaller line leading to your petcock. If you do you'll need to fill your carb bowls full of gas before it will start. Put the petcock on prime and apply vacuum to your petcock and let the bowls fill and then try to start it.
 
Is the stock airbox hooked back up, and clamped tight? As mentioned in other post's, these carbs need big time vacuum to operate correctly.

Greg
 
Good advice above. Also, if you separated carbs or not, you should bench synch the carbs throttle plates. A poor synch will not allow the bike to start. Be sure the idle adjuster knob is turned up enough to allow the bike to hold an idle too. Also, you said you moved the mixture screws. Where are they now? Generally, they're about 2 turns out (for starters). Fine tuning will probably be needed for the screws but at two turns out, any non-starting shouldn't be the fault of the screws.
 
ok thanks I will check all of those things. one more question do i need to adjust the air jets at all i just put them back in snug? I learned alot the hard way the first time I tore them apart. Like putting hose on first and throttle cable. lol thanks alot guys
 
You should only have one set of mixture screws on the top of the carbs on the head side. As Keith has already pointed out, start in the 1 1/2 to 2 turn from lightly seated range. That should put you close. Then after the bike is warmed up you can fine tune them. Adjust each one for the highest, smoothest idle you can get out of them.
 
Yes,the first time I did finaly put the vacume from petcock to carb and put it on prime and still couldnt get it to start. I made sure that airbox was sealed correctly. But mabee when i put the carbs back together i didnt adjust the right screws. which ones need to be adjusted befor putting it back together?
 
If they are CV's, which they should be, the only ones that are adjustable are the ones on the top front of the carbs. If you didn't pull the caps off them and remove the screws for cleaning then that's part of your problem.
 
apacalypse said:
ok thanks I will check all of those things. one more question do i need to adjust the air jets at all i just put them back in snug? I learned alot the hard way the first time I tore them apart. Like putting hose on first and throttle cable. lol thanks alot guys
Click to expand...
By "air jets", if you mean the mixture screws, do as Billy said. That will get you close for now. Correct terminology causes problems around here.
If you really do mean the air jets that fit into the lower carb throat opening on the filter side, yes, any air jet that's removable must be FIRMLY tightened. Not too much, just firmly enough that typical vibrations wouldn't allow them to come loose.
 
oh ya one other thing i forgot to mention is before I pulled the carbs off the first time the #4 exhast was not really hot and the other three were very. and after i cleaned and put the carbs back on the #3 wasnt very hot as the 1-2-4 were. What would cause that?
 
KEITH KRAUSE said:
By "air jets", if you mean the mixture screws, do as Billy said. That will get you close for now. Correct terminology causes problems around here.
If you really do mean the air jets that fit into the lower carb throat opening on the filter side, yes, any air jet that's removable must be FIRMLY tightened. Not too much, just firmly enough that typical vibrations wouldn't allow them to come loose.
Click to expand...

yes thats what i meant. Thanks Im trying to get the terminology from the pics of the carbs i was showed on this thread.
 
Did you pull the float valve seats? There are screens on them that may be clogged. And if you didn't pull the mixture screws out when cleaning you have likely clogged them up in your cleaning efforts.
 
Could be a lot of things.
I'd first try the bench synch and mixture screws settings and test.
If you still have a cooler cylinder, it could be a poor plug cap connection, cracking plug lead arcing to ground, fouled plug, plug gap off, low fuel level in the carb bowl, dirty jets, intake leak when you serviced the carbs, etc. Hopefully it's not poor compression.
 
I'm a slow typer so some of my replies are behind you and Billy's.
I've gotta go now because I have about 4 hours of yard work waiting for me.:(
Hopefully, you have a manual to bench synch the throttle plates well. Then, seat the mixture screws on top LIGHTLY and turn them about 1 1/2 turns out.
Then check/clean any plug cap connections and inspect the leads for any cracking. Arcing from a crack (if it's happening) may be seen in a dark area. Hear any "snapping or clicking" sounds?
Make sure the plugs are gapped and cleaned up.
Check manifolds and any o-rings for good condition. Any o-rings are usually hard after some time and need to be replaced while you have them out. An intake leak will cause poor combustion and a "cold" cylinder.
Hope this helps. I'm out to the garden. I'll try to check back later tonight if needed.
 
does the valve float seat have the little pin that the float pushes on. If so how do you get it out. I did take the screw out of the valve seat clamp but how do you get the needl out?
 
You have to be very careful pulling the floats. You can easily break the towers the floats hinge on. The seats are the brass cylinders the float needle slips into to shut fuel flow off. If you try to get those pins out support the towers so they don't break on you.
 
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