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can't tach over 4500

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
aRs3n1c said:
:?:
My question is, what is happening when the starter is engaged and when the kill switch is hit that completes the circuit at those times that doesn't do it any other time?
******* Under the right side crankcase cover (where the ignition pickups are) Look at those pickups and tell me if you have a black,white and red wire. Do you know what type of electronic ignition was installed into the bike. They do not all wire the same.*******



Also, where do I start to look for the bad connection between the coil's ground and the ignition circuitry?
******* The coil's ground is the mounting bolts that hold the coil to the bike's frame. Unless the mount holes are thoroughly rusted or sealed in paint, its unlikely the coils are not grounded.*******


I don't have the wiring diagram in front of me but if I remember correctly, the kill switch breaks the flow of current from the battery to the positive terminals of the ignition coils by grounding it? ... I don't know where my mind was going there, but perhaps someone else does and can complete my thought.
Click to expand...
****** The battery provides power to the fuse block. The fuse block provides power to the ignition switch. Depending on whether you turn the key to ON or Park, different outputs on the ignition switch are energized. In the on position, positive + power then flows through the kill switch.
The kill switch being in the on position completes a circuit and passes along power to the starter switch. Your coils have power if the ignition key is on and the kill switch is in the on position. I asked this question earlier and apparently an answer was overlooked. The kill switch and starter button are connected by a three pin connector that you will find in the headlight shell. (the connector could be located on the wiring harness underneath the fuel tank, but that would be unusual) The connector is a white plastic rectangle that measures aprox 1/2 x 1/2 x 1 1/2". In this connector you will find three pairs of wires.

They should be in this order:

orange | orange/white | probably green yellow
==================================
orange | orange/white | green yellow



The power supply for your ignition system should be spliced into the orange and white lead. (either side of the plastic connector will do)
this orange and white wire also powers your coils. Make sure that the orange and white wires on the + terminals of your coils are both connected to this same point. (and only this point)

(I suspect that someone has connected one of your coils to the starter lead and that is why your symptoms are so odd. Consequently, that coil would only be energized when the starter button was depressed. :-) :-) There shouldnt be anything added to the green/yellow leads on either side of the connector box.)

Earl
 
Update: It's alive!!!!

Update: It's alive!!!!

Well, after much studying of the wiring diagram in the Clymer manual and thinking logically through the problem (I do tech support at work as well as other more mundane programing jobs), I finally decided that the problem was either in the spark plug caps or the ignition under the right hand side cover. Since I didn't have my multi meter with me, I figured I'd at least check what I could visually to see if there was an obvious short somewhere. I pulled the right hand side cover off, pulled the ignition plate out, looked it over, and then put it back in. It went back in differently then it was before I pulled it out so I thought, "Hmm, maybe that's the problem." I screwed the ignition plate back in and fired it up.

I had cranked the idle screw the whole way open so that the bike would idle on just two cylinders. Well, when I fired her up this time, all four cylinders roared to life, a ton of smoke came out the pipe and she idled at 3k rpm. I backed the idle screw down and let her run for a bit. That was early Saturday afternoon.

I was running her around the property in the rain then Saturday evening. The smoke finally abated, though she still runs a bit rough until she's warmed up. I had her idling steady at about 1100 rpms yesterday afternoon.

Now all I need to do is get her legal. But that's a whole other story...
 
great job hope that takes care of it.. One more thing.. sync your caebs and you should be set
 
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