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Carb Dip aftertmath

  • Thread starter Thread starter Grassigrass
  • Start date Start date
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Grassigrass

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I'm in the process of dipping all 4 carbs of my 650. I've read all the manuals to the dip process. I do not have access to compressed air so I've been rinsing with hot water and spraying with carb clean and wiping dry and air drying what I miss. It just doesn't seem like the carb dip is doing a great job cleaning. Here's a picture of what I'm talking about.
IMG_7382.jpg
Not too sure why it uploaded sideways but this is what all 4 needle valve seat holes look like. why is this? It just doesn't seem like they're actually getting clean.. Some parts of the carbs look better but others look the same if not worse with all this crustacean built up.
 
Its not gonna scrub them like shiney new..thats your job. The dip will dislodge and dissolve scale only to a certain point. It will be loose but you have to take Qtips and carb spray, some steel wool rolled up and whatever else and do some hand work on them. Be sure the choke plungers move freely and snap back in when you reinstall them too.
tooth brushes and steel wool along with some carb spray clean the bodies exteriors pretty good too.
 
Yea any water in the gas settles right in that spot and corrodes the metal. I recently cleaned the carbs on the 550 after putting 40k miles on it and that area was caked with that white residue.
 
WHAT are you dipping them in????
I use Berryman's Professional, and they come out clean in there....
 
I use berrymans and there is sometimes real hard scale that needs some manual manipulation to be spotless. point being that nothing is a 100% deal..you still gotta spiffy things up usually.
 
About compressed air... I don't have a compressor so I used a can of computer duster. Definitely less pressure but with a tube on the nozzle, you can get into most of the internal passages. My carbs came out pretty clean.
 
UltraSonic Cleaner would be nice to have access too...
A quick shake in there would clean off all the scale and deposits I think
I use an UltraSonic and have never had this kind of issue..
But I also do not dip the carb bodies - I think the dip discolors the aluminum.
The U.S. cleaner and some time will get them clear..then a cold water rinse and WD40 spray with some additional compressed air and they come out clean and pretty dry. WD-40 (Water Displacement -40) - I
In the U.S. cleaner I use Simple Green diluted with ...water...
I dip the brass parts (jets and other metals but not the aluminum)
Just my experience..
 
Sonic cleaner removes that stuff. I never used the Berrymans, never will, sonic cleaner all the way.
 
I wasn't impressed with Berryman's either. I had better luck with vinegar, and the best I've found is Evapo-Rust from the auto parts store.
 
"Gunk carburetor parts cleaner" it's all they had at my local shop.
Fjbj40 I looked at sonic cleaners but they're way too expensive for this one time job. Although I am going to buy a compressors once I find a place to put it and then hopefully make a DIY soda blaster for all the outsides to look nice. Mind you this is all after I get everything up and running. Thanks for the replies! Makes me feel less of a mess up about this whole thing.
 
chuck, all 650s have bs32 cv carbs, unless a PO swapped them with vms or anything else.
 
i always ask....like you said, never know whats what these days. I was strongly suspecting CV carbs...but hey!!
 
Just out of curiosity, in all the guides I read for the carb cleaning process it says to separate each individual carb's parts.. Why? I can't just dip all the interior parts at once? I mean I haven't but it would sure go faster.
 
You can't get all the rubber bits out from the fuel tubes and vents if you leave them together. The vent tee's are plastic too.
 
there's a chance that the dip can soften, dissolve, or turn those 30+ year old bits of plastic super brittle. the only way to not ungang all 4 carbs is if you have an ultrasonic cleaner big enough to do all 4 all together at the same time.
 
I would argue that even with an ultrasonic cleaner you should still de-gang the carbs since flushing the debris out would be next to impossible without doing it. Come one guys, stop with short cuts. Do it right and be done with it. Other wise you're doomed to doing it again.

I both dip and ultrasonic clean disassembled gang when I do carbs.
 
And there are filter screens behind the float seats on CV carbs which would also get potentially damaged.
 
I would argue that even with an ultrasonic cleaner you should still de-gang the carbs since flushing the debris out would be next to impossible without doing it. Come one guys, stop with short cuts. Do it right and be done with it. Other wise you're doomed to doing it again.

I both dip and ultrasonic clean disassembled gang when I do carbs.

i don't plan on taking any shortcuts. I wouldn't have bought a "project" had that been my intention hahaha. Also I don't mean dip the carb's still attached. I mean cam I throw all internal parts in together. Right now I have everything separated by carb in solo cups. 1 cup for each carb (only dipping non plastic or rubber parts). I work my way through one carb at a time. In this order: carb body, float bowl, carb cover, all internal metal parts. 4 separate dip sessions for each carb. I worded my question poorly but it was can I just throw as much in at a time to make this process faster? I guess it is a shortcut but I was just wondering if it mattered.
 
Keeping all of your carb parts for each carb separate from the other carbs is a good idea, but you do not have to do the internals separate from the body, bowl and cover.
 
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