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carb intake boots

  • Thread starter Thread starter ybot1966
  • Start date Start date
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ybot1966

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GS750 1977 Do the carb intake boots need to be tightened to a set torque? In addition and this will sound dumb what does the vacuum port do on the boot (is it to balance the carbs, is it adjustable? mines got a hex screw in it)
 
The port is where you hook your sync lines.
The boots dont normally need re-torque but I would recommend pulling em off and replacing the O-rings. Along with the O-rings in your carbs. While you're there I would also recommend cleaning the carbs.
 
ybot1966 said:
GS750 1977 Do the carb intake boots need to be tightened to a set torque? In addition and this will sound dumb what does the vacuum port do on the boot (is it to balance the carbs, is it adjustable? mines got a hex screw in it)
Click to expand...

About torque, I dont know if that is listed in the tourque section of the manaul or not. I suspect you are asking about the clamps.
But what I can tell you is that I just tighten the clamps until the clamp can not be pushed around. SOme folks tighten that as much as they can, my opinion is that all that is doing is smashing the boot materail and stretching the clamp and then after a while it can not be made any tighter.
Or are you asking about the bolts/screws that mount the boots to the heads?

Yep, vacuum ports are for temperary connection to vacuum guages/manometer for when syncing the carbs.
Yep, is suppose to have a small bolt/screw in it.

.
 
ybot1966 said:
GS750 1977 Do the carb intake boots need to be tightened to a set torque? In addition and this will sound dumb what does the vacuum port do on the boot (is it to balance the carbs, is it adjustable? mines got a hex screw in it)
Click to expand...

Hi,

See the Carb Synchronization guide on my website for pictures of the vacuum ports in use. You remove the hex screws and screw in the adapters for the vacuum gauges. Those hex screws are NOT the adjustment.

Your manual should have torque specs. If you are talking about bolting the intake boots to the head, I would think somewhere around 6 or 7 foot pounds would be plenty. But check your manual to be sure. If you don't have a manual, download one from my website.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
BassCliff said:
Hi,

See the Carb Synchronization guide on my website for pictures of the vacuum ports in use. You remove the hex screws and screw in the adapters for the vacuum gauges. Those hex screws are NOT the adjustment.

Your manual should have torque specs. If you are talking about bolting the intake boots to the head, I would think somewhere around 6 or 7 foot pounds would be plenty. But check your manual to be sure. If you don't have a manual, download one from my website.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
Click to expand...


thanks, yes i meant bolting the intake boots to the head torque
 
Just do 'em up tight. No need to welly them. Best is to replace the JIS (phillips) screws with allen bolts and just use a couple of fingers on the allen key.
 
Hi,

Yes, you definitely want to replace those funky old phillips head bolts...

intake_repair46.jpg


...with some nice new hex fasteners.

intake_repair55.jpg



I got these hex bolts from http://cycleorings.com when I ordered my carb O-ring kit. Robert Barr has the stuff you need!

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
To sync the carbs, you have to remove the allen bolts and screw in a little adaptor to accept the rubber lines from the carb sync manometer.
 
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