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Carb Kit

  • Thread starter Thread starter Seaking
  • Start date Start date
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Seaking

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I am sure this question had been asked too many times before but I have to ask as the search feature on the forum is giving me fatal server errors..

I am soon going to attemp my carb rebuild on the GS650G and found where to order the o-rings but not sure about the gaskets and other parts, such a carb kit?

I'm rather novice at carbs and only seen the internals via tutorials on this and Cliff's site. They make mention of replacing o-rings but can't find anything on what type or brands are best for this task.

Any info, as always, always appreciated.

Cheers
 
This should help some...

This should help some...

http://www.cycleorings.com/

ORings found here

http://www.z1enterprises.com/

Gaskets & stuff found here


Follow the online tutorials foud on this site and you can do it easily..I rebuilt my first set of carbs ever on the GS650 I had last year..Since then I have done (2) CX500's - (1) GL1100 - (1) Honda Magna 700 and will soon do my GS850 ...

Ask questions and take your time to do it perfectly and it will work.
 
I usually keep 1 carb kit on hand, made by K&L, in case I loose or damage something. Its usually cheaper in the long run to get a spare rack of carbs to use for parts rather than ordering individual pieces.
 
If you read through the carb rebuild tutorial linked on Cliff's site all your questions will be answered.

Please do not start the rebuild process until you familarize yourself with the process. Also, check out the Newbie Mistakes thread linked in my signature so you will be familiar with some of the common problems.
 
When a customer sends me a set of carbs, I usually find the only things that need replacing are the orings. Often, even the float bowl gaskets are ok to reuse. The orings & gaskets can all be bought separately for way less than the kits.
 
Thanks folks, just the info I'd been hoping for. I had read and re-read the nembie mistakes but forgot the ZZ1 source for carb parts, thanks!

oring, intake seals on their way, air box intact but missing a clamping clip (slim piece that holds the cover on), valve clearances checked and waiting on shims to finish that job, picked up an OEM valve cover gasket, but most likely make my own breather gasket.. then check the compression..

Next on the list is the gas tank.. beautiful on the outside, no dents, dings or scratches, rusted inside.. That will be interesting to try the various cleaning methods (safety glass bits tumbler process to take out the big stuff, evapo-rust to remove the rest.. not sure which to use to seal it with afterwards..) Not sure yet if the petcock will require a rebuild or just get a new aftermarket one.. Never had a bike with a PRI petcock before..

Cheers and thanks to all for your input and advice. Much appreciated.
 
Shims should be there very soon I think, mailed them a week ago yesterday. When you decide to do the tank rust removal use the vinegar method. It was much more thorough and faster than the electrolysis method for me. Remove petcock and sender and blank off the holes. You will be amazed by the results. Ray
 
Thanks Ray.. postal is always slow around here.. I'll check out the vinegar method as well. What would you recommend as a good sealer to prevent 're-rust'.. I've read negatives on both preen and Por 15 (?) but also great comments about both..

Cheers
 
Seaking said:
Thanks Ray.. postal is always slow around here.. I'll check out the vinegar method as well. What would you recommend as a good sealer to prevent 're-rust'.. I've read negatives on both preen and Por 15 (?) but also great comments about both..

Cheers
Click to expand...

I haven't coated mine and after Tom (Tkent) suggested not coating it, I might not. If I do coat it I think I will use Caswells, sounds like it is about as good as it gets. Also, when you get to the end using vinegar and are happy with the cleanliness, chase the last of the vinegar out with a bit of alcohol. If you don't, you see flash rust almost as soon as it is drained. Ray
 
A good job is always completed with a good chase of alcohol.. right?

I checked out a bunch of tutes on 'vinegar' de-rusting and there's a lot of variants out there (apple cider, dilutions, length of time to soak etc etc)

Which method did you use that worked best? No sense in me trying to re-invent the wheel that someone's already figured out..

Thanks again for the info.

Cheers!
 
I used the cheapest white vinegar I could find at Walmart. I did several drains along the way dumping the last little bit each time as it was mostly rust, then refilled the tank with the old vinegar and topped it off with a bit of fresh to keep it up to the brim. I think I did this for 3 days before I decided it was pretty clean. Ray
 
Ghostgs1 said:
I haven't coated mine and after Tom (Tkent) suggested not coating it, I might not. If I do coat it I think I will use Caswells, sounds like it is about as good as it gets. Also, when you get to the end using vinegar and are happy with the cleanliness, chase the last of the vinegar out with a bit of alcohol. If you don't, you see flash rust almost as soon as it is drained. Ray
Click to expand...

I've used Caswell on several cars, including a flood victim which then sat for 2 years, and it has always worked like a champ.

I've even used it on tanks with complete rust-through. I hit the rust with the wire wheel (inside and out) to get rid of all the crap and rinsed with acetone before putting painter's tape over the outside to cover the rust holes. Poured in the freshly mixed Caswell and let it set up after swishing it around, 24 hours later I peeled off the tape and gave it a fresh coat of paint. Job done.
 
Sounds good.. and just rubbing alcohol for the final rinse?

Thanks again!
 
Please do a search for info on how to clean and line a tank. Use Advanced search, toggle "titles only" and search on "rust". Tons of threads, with lots of posts by me!:D

Metal Prep is the best stuff to derust (phosphoric acid). It leaves the metal with a phosphate coating which slows down rust. Por-15 is the best stuff to coat the tank, assuming it doesn't leak. Casswell's tank sealer is crazy thick and better than Por-15 if there are holes in the tank though. Again, tons more info in the archives.

Good luck
 
Thanks Nessism. I'm not sure why but I still keep getting server errors when trying to use the search feature in the forum. I'll keep trying, I certainly do want to check out your threads.

I checked out the Caswell videos and yeah.. simple enough to use. From what I've seen thus far on the inside of the tank, it might be what will be required to ensure a clean tank.. but we'll see when the time comes.

There's an amount of liquid 'something' at the bottom of the tank that I don't want to remove just yet, it might be the only thing that's keeping the bottom of the tank from rusting out completely (smells like old paint thinner)..

Here's what I can see inside the tank.

http://www.eastcoastphotos.com/gs650g/picture078a.jpg
 
Search must be done with SHORT keywords or phrases only..to much input and it wont compute and sends you that error report. That old thinner is putrified fuel and then there will be a black almost plastic sediment under it. It took 3 days in Acetone and scrubbing with a rod going along the bottom edges to get it all out of one tank I had. And yes that was then tanks salvation from fully rotting thru.
 
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Yes, just plain rubbing alcohol drys out and flushes the last moisture out and leaves it pristine. This is how you want it if you are going to coat it. Ray
 
Thanks BassCliff. Using the words "carb clean" in this forum section would give me errors, but later it started to work again. Not sure if its just a server timeout error or a referrer link error when that happens when I'm on the wireless laptop out in the garage.. The FiOp PC doesn't seem to suffer the errors. weird. Considered sorted out now.

Anyhoo, thanks for the tip!
 
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