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Carb maintainance

  • Thread starter Thread starter cyberdork
  • Start date Start date
C

cyberdork

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I pulled the carbs off of my GS700 (did not pull apart). (forgive my lack of knowledge with the jets), I took off the float bowls and cleaned them out, pulled the plug off the one large jet, took it out, cleaned it. I then took the small jet out of the hole in front of it and cleaned that out. Next I bent the clip that held the float in place and flipped back the float. I then took the needle valve under the floatout and sprayed everything out....so here are my remaining questions.

1) Should I order new screens that are with the needle valve?
2) Should I order new o-rings for the needle valve?
3) Is there anything else I should replace?
 
Tear the carbs completely down, keep needles and seats together, dip them in a berryman's carb dip (1 gallon pale) and use carb cleaner (spray can) to clear out any remaining orifices if you do not have an air compressor.

Robert Barr on here sells o-ring kits.

If the screens are not plugged, I would leave them be.

While you are at it, replace the o-rings behind the intake manifolds

BTW, the little steel rod drives out of the carbs so that you can completely remove the floats and not have to bend any tabs.

http://www.thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

http://www.cycleorings.com/
 
"BTW, the little steel rod drives out of the carbs so that you can completely remove the floats and not have to bend any tabs. "

Yes, be careful though as that is a notorious weak spot and those legs with the drilled hole for the rod will break off pretty easily.
 
I tried pulling that pin out with a flathead, and even tried a punch to push it out from the opposite end. Didn't budge.
 
cyberdork said:
I tried pulling that pin out with a flathead, and even tried a punch to push it out from the opposite end. Didn't budge.
Click to expand...

Try a little PB Blaster, pretty amazing stuff. Don't force it though, gentle taps with a punch.
 
The float pin is flared just under the nail head so you need to support that post or you make break it off when you punch out the pin. A small socket works well or a piece of wood. Put the socket down on your work bench and then rest the post with the head over it for support while you punch.
 
Also, use a spring loaded AUTOMATIC punch! They work wonders & DON'T break the posts! Ray.
 
Use small wire cutters to grab the pin and pull it out. No hitting required.
Don't shove them in as deep on assembly. The float bowls secure the pins and they can never fall out.

Not sure why they went to the trouble of fattening the one end to make them tight in there.
 
duaneage said:
Use small wire cutters to grab the pin and pull it out. No hitting required.
Don't shove them in as deep on assembly. The float bowls secure the pins and they can never fall out.

Not sure why they went to the trouble of fattening the one end to make them tight in there.
Click to expand...

I second the side cutters, it's what I used.
 
I usually use my Channel Lock pliers to bridge across the posts and squeeze the pin out jst the fraction of a millimeter that it will go. Then I use my side cutters to get under the head of the pin and pull it out. Works great, no impact on the posts.

.
 
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