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Carb needle question. Especially directed to Ed Ness

  • Thread starter Thread starter suzukizone
  • Start date Start date
S

suzukizone

Guest
1981 GS850G

Was just reading Ed Ness's great carb manual at the BassCliff site. A mention is made of shaving down the little plastic cap atop the needle to enrich the mid range.

I actually need to lean that range a bit. Would it be possible to drop a small washer under the cap so as to push the needle down further into the needle jet to lean out the mid range?

I think this will work & if no one jumps on me to warn of something I missed, think I'll give it a try. Been struggling with a too rich issue across all carbs and turning in the pilot screws has not done it. I believe this mid range is where all the fuel is going and leaving the plug a bit too dark.

Thank you,

PS Ed Ness you gorgeous layout on the carb work makes me want to tear them apart just to do it & follow your guide,....but I won't.

DH
 
Before you do that you might want to look at your mains and see if they're a little too large.
 
I've raised the needles with washers in place of the spacer, I don't see why one couldn't add a washer underneath the spacer. That said as the poster above mentioned it may behoove one to start with the mains. Mains altered much more than the WOT portion of my fuel mixture on BS34 carbs.
 
It is also possible that the floats are set incorrectly. :-k

If they are set too high, ALL circuits will be running rich.

.
 
Carb needle question. Especially directed to Ed Ness

Carb needle question. Especially directed to Ed Ness

Steve said:
It is also possible that the floats are set incorrectly. :-k

If they are set too high, ALL circuits will be running rich.

.
Click to expand...

This is to reply to all the suggestions you guys (gals???) sent me. ( BTW bike used to get 42-44 in mixed riding & 48-50 on longer camping trips at 55-65 mph. I am a gentle throttle type, like to take it smooth.)

1. Floats have been set to within a inch of my life to 22.4 (well that number from memory-whatever the spec in the book is, that's it) Used digital caliper just like in the pix. Had drill sergeant type service manager check me out, a real perfectionist and hard to please, he agreed I got them right. I have considered setting floats off standard to lower the cutoff level a hair. Not going there yet. Maybe if all else fails.

2. The main jets were replaced with brand new OEM Suzuki mains as were every other replaceable jet in the system & every part I could no matter how perfect anything looked, NO AFTERMARKET items used. Also new intake boots on air cleaner side of carb, new O-rings on the new manifold manifold set.

3. Complete new pilot fuel parts replaced, and order of placement is correct. Carbs had been cleaned to shiny in ultrasonic cleaner, all passages were blown clean with spray cleaner, comp air & Celtic chants spoken over them. Airbox sealed. If I forgot something here, you can ask.

4. Battery strong, stays on a Battery Tender Jr at all times. Spark was tested back in the day on a shop device that measured voltage, etc. Above specs. Have replaced the leads with DynaCoil supresession set & rebuilt the primary side connectors.

Mention this richness issue has been a problem for MANY YEARS. I had placed quite a few postings over the years at this site & tried all suggestions multiple times. Also when I worked in the Suzuki shop, 3 very experienced (all grey haired very experienced dudes worked with me. The carb set even went home with one so he could go over it at leisure & consult with a fourth Suzuki-ite.) Everyone said the same, carbs set up exactly right= no one can figure it.

Just throwing this in so anyone can see that the basics have been go through ad infinitum.

Top end (pistons, rings, valves & seats lapped 1n 2010 but this problem predates that work by years)

Anyway I digress, I found some thin little carb washers & am in the process of putting them UNDER the little plastic cap to allow the needle to be pressed down slightly and lean out a bit. Being the washer is so thin (I don't have a full set of the stock size washers like the ones between the spring & e-clip) it should be a slight change. I can always get some of the stock Mikuni or KL washers & add another adjustment if it seems more "leaning" is needed.

I believe the mid range is the source of the problem as adjustments to the pilot fuel screw do not clear up the richness & they have been brought down to even below 1 turn out at times. Main jet, being stock ain't it either.

Sorry to go on, just wanted to give as much as possible as the suggestions were for avenues that have been checked out numerous times in the past.

Thanks

DH
 
barnbiketom said:
petcock vacuum dumping fuel.....????
Click to expand...

Thanks, another good suggestion I and 2 others checked that possibility way back. Not that either.

Yesterday I added the wee little washers under the cap. Then synched carbs with the CarbTune my buddy lent me. Engine sounded great. Hope I can button up the bike & take a test ride in spite of the predicticated 40 mph wind gusts. I HATE WIND!!!!!

Letcha know, have to check plugs to see how they are burning & track mileage as well. Who knows.

If anyone reads this & has other ideas, PLEASE feel free to lemme know. BUT read my previous post here as to checks already done. All of them have been gone over multiple times by as many as 4 people besides myself.

Off I go.

DH
 
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