• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Carb Needles

  • Thread starter Thread starter Julia
  • Start date Start date
J

Julia

Guest
OK. When I start to put this carb back together, how far do I turn the needles? Do I put them all the way in then back them out? The carb rebuild didn't say. Do I count the number of turns as I screwed them back out?

Julia
 
Go to the User CP in the upper left of the screen and edit the signature to read what bike you have. We'll quit asking if you do.

Are you asking about the air/fuel mixture screws ? The tapered ones on the top front of the carbs ? If so, they're normally set to two turns out from lightly seated, which is good to get the bike running again. You can fine tune from there. Don't crank them down or you run the risk of snapping off the tapered end.
And here's some bench sync notes.:)

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/carb_sync_notes.html
 
Julia said:
OK. When I start to put this carb back together, how far do I turn the needles? Do I put them all the way in then back them out? The carb rebuild didn't say. Do I count the number of turns as I screwed them back out?

Julia
Click to expand...

Hi Julia,

I thought I just read the other day, you had just found some carb dip...

Are you ready to re-assemble already?? Or are you just planning ahead?

Take lots of digital pics of the carbs before you break them down (if it's not too late) to "remind" you where some of the parts go (e.g, the choke rail & associated connections, brackets to hold the throttle & choke cables, ect...)
 
I bought it because I was planing on starting to break down the carbs and clean. But now I've got a new problem. One screw is stuck on the top "gang" plank and the bottom plank, none of the screws want to budge. I tried to use an impact driver and only sucssfuly destroyed the head. I'm going to spray them down with pb blaster an wait about a day. Anyone else have this problem with this bike?
 
Julia said:
I bought it because I was planing on starting to break down the carbs and clean. But now I've got a new problem. One screw is stuck on the top "gang" plank and the bottom plank, none of the screws want to budge. I tried to use an impact driver and only sucssfuly destroyed the head. I'm going to spray them down with pb blaster an wait about a day. Anyone else have this problem with this bike?
Click to expand...

My gangplank screws came out fine...
my float bowl post, on the other hand: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=143888 :D
 
Julia said:
I bought it because I was planing on starting to break down the carbs and clean. But now I've got a new problem. One screw is stuck on the top "gang" plank and the bottom plank, none of the screws want to budge. I tried to use an impact driver and only sucssfuly destroyed the head. I'm going to spray them down with pb blaster an wait about a day. Anyone else have this problem with this bike?
Click to expand...

Some times you can grab the screw with vicegrips and turn them out. Worth a try.:D
 
Julia said:
I bought it because I was planing on starting to break down the carbs and clean. But now I've got a new problem. One screw is stuck on the top "gang" plank and the bottom plank, none of the screws want to budge. I tried to use an impact driver and only sucssfuly destroyed the head. I'm going to spray them down with pb blaster an wait about a day. Anyone else have this problem with this bike?
Click to expand...

Yeah, I remember having problems with those stinkin' screws before. The key is to make sure you have a proper fitting phillips screwdriver head...

That's the same advice I would give for ANY fastener - otherwise you risk smearing over the head.

I bought an inexpensive rachet set at Advance Auto that had a small rachet driver with a bunch of different type heads included: large & small phillps & flat heads, for around $15 bucks. It works for me to remove thoses gang plank screws.

I essentially use a hammer to whack the driver head into the screw head, then use the rachet drive to "break" it out. The PB Blaster should help - good stuff. Be patient, it will unscrew.

How about your mixture screws?? Are the aluminum plugs still over the tops - or are they accessible to remove??

Good luck - you can do it,

Mike
 
I am so stupid. I had the impact friver set to tighten. Screws came right off. Now off to bike bandit to replace them.
There are no caps anywhere. I believe someone else has rebuilt these carbs. There are 2 end caps on either side but other then that, all the screws are exposed. Saturday is when I start to remove all the screws from carb #1. Should I count how many turns it takes to remove these screws?
 
You're not stupid, just inexperienced - see, you're getting smarter already ;)

Glad you got past that hurdle... I don't think the number of turns really matters now - when you reassemble them, set them at 1.5 turns from LIGHTLY seated to start. You'll be playin' with them later anyway.

More important, make sure your bench synch is close so the bike starts right off...

Does your bike have any mods?? Or is it completely stock?
 
hikermikem said:
Does your bike have any mods?? Or is it completely stock?
Click to expand...

I'm only putting on air pods. Other than that there's no mods that I can see. Maybe next year I'm going to buy a new exhaust.
I've gotta do more research on bench synching. :)
 
Julia said:
I'm only putting on air pods. Other than that there's no mods that I can see. Maybe next year I'm going to buy a new exhaust.
I've gotta do more research on bench synching. :)
Click to expand...

With pods you need to rejet the carbs or the bike will run like crap and over heat the engine. Not sure if Dynojet offers a kit for the 650 but you might want to check. It's much cheaper and safer to keep the stock airbox.
 
Julia said:
I've gotta do more research on bench synching. :)
Click to expand...

When you re-attach the throttle linkage between the carbs (held in place by those pesky gang planks) you want all four butterflies to open & close in unison with each other (e.g., the same amount of opening per carb).

Notice where the throttle cable attaches on the #3 carb - there's no sync/vaccum adjuster screw there (little phillips head screw with a locknut). There is however, a longer brass screw with a scalloped head - that's the idle adjustment screw & it sets the "home" position of the #3 carb butterfly.

You want to turn the little adjuster screws on the other carbs (1,2, & 4) to match the gap (opening) of the #3 master carb. (These are the same screws you will adjust later when doing a dynamic sync when the bike is running - so don't make them super tight, snug is good).

Most members here use the shank end of a small dia drill bit to set the gaps to: open #3 & insert your spacer (shank), then close the butterfly with that pretty brass knob so you just barely scrape the shank when you push it in & out. Set the other carbs using the same technique (and feel), but now you're using the little adjuster screws to move their butterflies.

After all the carbs are set, use the idle adjuster knob (pretty one) to set the butterflies open just a crack (otherwise the bike will rev out-of-control when you initially start it)

Voila, that's a bench sync - take care to be as exact as you can, this will exponentially increase your chances the bike will start.

Good luck

mike

 
The carb rebuild kit came with needles and screws. Should I use the stock needles or replace them with the ones that come in the kit?
 
Julia said:
The carb rebuild kit came with needles and screws. Should I use the stock needles or replace them with the ones that come in the kit?
Click to expand...

Not sure what rebuild kit you have, but generally the only thing of value in those kits is the float bowl gaskets...

I would re-use the stock components, with an o-ring kit from:

http://www.cycleorings.com/

That's pretty much all you need...

Also, +1 on Ed's advice on the stock airbox.
 
I got the kits off ebay. I think I will wait on the air pods till next year when I learn more about rejetting(have no idea what that entails) and find an air box. I kind of punctured it with a screw driver when I was taking them off. Those things are a pain.
Will the bike run without the box on? I'm not going to synch them with it off but I just want to know if it's going to start without me wrestling the carbs inplace.
 
in the short of it, it might start and run on choke, but without the airbox thats about all you can expect, if youre lucky to get that. Running without the airbox will be WORSE than running pod filters without rejetting...
 
How bad is the wound to the airbox?? I would think you could patch it up, perhaps some black epoxy??

These bikes do not tolerate air leaks well, so running without a WELL SEALED airbox wouldn't be a good choice.
 
Julia said:
I got the kits off ebay. I think I will wait on the air pods till next year when I learn more about rejetting(have no idea what that entails) and find an air box. I kind of punctured it with a screw driver when I was taking them off. Those things are a pain.
Will the bike run without the box on? I'm not going to synch them with it off but I just want to know if it's going to start without me wrestling the carbs inplace.
Click to expand...

Good idea, IMHO. Get it running well stock, then think about mods.

The bike will probably run without the airbox, but not well. The air/fuel mixture is a critical part of making these bike run properly. I had a difficult time getting my airbox on and off too. Then, somehow I figured out how to do it, and it's easy now......My airbox also has a hole in it. I took some JB Weld and smushed it into the hole and smoothed it out. Sealed it up well, the best I can tell.

How do the rubber boots look ? They should be squishy and soft. It makes getting the carb in and out much easier. They shrink over the years making it very difficult to get the carbs in. If they're hard and brittle, they're going to be prone to air leaks anyhow. Kind of a pricey items, but well worth the investment.:)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top