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Carb Reassembly Questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter Fenixgoon
  • Start date Start date
F

Fenixgoon

Guest
So I'm working my way backwards from the carb series guide, and I've noticed a few things

1) the main jet does not completely screw into the needle jet. Is this right?

2) the valve needle seat requires a decent amount of force to go in. how do i get it to go back in without smashing the mesh screen at the bottom?

3) my pilot jet plug doesn't stay. if i put it in, then turn the carb upside down it just falls out. replace, or am i missing something?

thank you GS carb gods/goddesses! :D
 
1) Do you have the washer between the jet and the needle jet? The jet should sit down snug and flat on top of the washer.

2) I assume you have new O-rings in the carbs and on the float needle right? If so, put a drop of oil on the O-ring before you install the float seat or the O-ring can tear.

3) The plugs don't need to fit tight since the float bowl will hold it in place but it does need to seal so if it's completely loose you should get some new ones.

055_Removing%20main%20jet.jpg
 
My 2 cents worth

My 2 cents worth

1) It's also possible that the internal threads on the needle jet are 'boogered up' a little from someone pounding it out. If that happened to be the case, it's really easy to re-tap them.

2) You need to apply firm, even pressure...and make sure it's headed in there straight. You can't smash the screen because there's a lip that catches the needle valve. When that happens, there's still space below the bottom of the screen so it's not possible to squish it.

3) As Ness says, when you put your float bowl on, it will hold the plug in place. (Take a look in the float bowl and you'll see what I mean.)
 
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alright, now i'm on the floats. measuring the float height, i get 18.6mm whereas the right spec is 22.4mm... how on earth am i gonna bend the float tab to add that much extra float height? i tried prying it with a smalls flathead screwdriver, but that didnt appear to change anything at all.
 
The float needles have springs in them. When the needles are new, the spring is strong enough to hold up the float but not after 28 years. When setting the float height you need to support the float with your hand and lower it until it just touches the tip of the float needle - don't let it compress the spring. You need to measure the height from the carb body without a gasket installed. Take your time and get the measaurement right. If the float's cause the needle spring to compress it wouldn't be a bad idea to get some new needles - Z1 sells them.

Good luck.

NewPicture.jpg
 
chuckycheese said:
1) It's also possible that the internal threads on the needle jet are 'boogered up' a little from someone pounding it out. If that happened to be the case, it's really easy to re-tap them.

2) You need to apply firm, even pressure...and make sure it's headed in there straight. You can't smash the screen because there's a lip that catches the needle valve. When that happens, there's still space below the bottom of the screen so it's not possible to squish it.

3) As Ness says, when you put your float bowl on, it will hold the plug in place. (Take a look in the float bowl and you'll see what I mean.)
Click to expand...

1) - any idea what the thread style on the jets is? looks like i will need to re-tap my needle jets
 
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Tap Tap Tap

Tap Tap Tap

Re-tapping them just takes a minute and they should be as good as new. In the future, if you have to beat on them to get them out, use a wooden dowel.
 
chuckycheese said:
Re-tapping them just takes a minute and they should be as good as new. In the future, if you have to beat on them to get them out, use a wooden dowel.
Click to expand...

actually, mine came right out with no trouble at all. i didn't have to use a wooden dowel for any of my parts, so i'm really not sure how they got stripped :confused;

the good news is i can get a tap set for $25. sweet.
 
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