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Carb Rebuild NOOB needs Help

  • Thread starter Thread starter THE_FATTIE
  • Start date Start date
T

THE_FATTIE

Guest
Alright, I have a guide and I have read through some threads. But it seems that everyone that asks carb related questions has more knowledge on the subject than me. Im about to do a carb rebuild for and 81 GS550... My main concern is that when I bought the bike it did not come with an air filter or a top to the air filter box... Is there a way to get a hold of them or would it be better to get the Pods? If I do get the pods, what jets do I need? A direct link would be nice. I do want to learn more but an Iowa winter is coming and I would love to have the bike back together before there is snow everywhere, as my garage is about 10 miles down the road and I dont currently have a way to move the bike aside from pushing it...
 
Cruise ebay for an airbox and ask in the parts wanted section.
If you go with pods get a jet kit like the one from Dynojet.
 
Try google.

The Dynojet 550M kit is the same as for your bike. Don't worry about the year and model they state.

As for the airfilter if you want to stay with stock (which I recommend), filters are available new from Suzuki. And it shouldn't be too hard to find a cover. Post in the Parts Wanted forum. There is a good chance someone has one for you.
 
I wish you the best ... as I myself just tore apart my 80 GS550 carbs, and am in the process of dipping the parts now.

I too read tutorials, posts, etc. Got lots of great info in here, and even better people at your disposal.

Good Luck!

Jason
 
I think I got it. I ran into a slight problem with fuel running out of one of the drains, but it only leaked about a shot worth and then stopped. Maybe something was stuck together and came loose after some gas got to it. I have it all back together now, but Im thinking I may have to take it all apart again. Im looing at the clamps that hold the carb boots onto the carbs and I notice that they are not all that tight. Should they be? I can rotate some by hand when they are locked all the way down.

Im thinking new carb boots, o rings, and clamps might be my next purchase...
 
THE_FATTIE said:
Im looing at the clamps that hold the carb boots onto the carbs and I notice that they are not all that tight. Should they be? I can rotate some by hand when they are locked all the way down.

Im thinking new carb boots, o rings, and clamps might be my next purchase...
Click to expand...
You should only need the boots and o-rings. Your current clamps will work just fine with the new boots.

Don't get o-rings from a dealer or other OEM supply house. Get them from cycleorings.com. That is the same place you get the o-rings for the carbs.

Don't forget to also get the stainless hardware to hold your new boots to the engine. Yep, get them at cycleorings.com, too.

.
 
Actually I thought a head and Ordered the stainless bolts and the o rings when I got the carb kits...

I did not order the boots tho, because at $26-30 each my funds would be quickly gone. I have to spread out the cost a bit.

Currently Im having idle issues (jumping all over and hanging high rpms after throttle let go), as well as actual driving issues. Every once in a while, it seems like its running alright, but when I put it into first and let off the clutch it will buck and die, or it will go but any time I try to get above abotu 5mph it will bog down and die...
 
Beware those pesky TIGHT not gonna budge Phillips screws holding your manifold tubes to the head...

Trick #1

Give 'em a shot of PB blaster and wait a day.

Trick #2

Use a drift punch and give each screw a good sideways rap before you even try to turn them. (keep in mind that the screw is harder than the head, so do so carefully)

Trick #3

The screws on these bikes are NOT SAE!! They are Japanese JIS phillips!! Before you do too much work on your bike you will learn that using standard #2 or #3 bits just strip the screws. Get a set of JIS drivers or bits and save yourself major headaches and bloody knuckles.
 
Last edited:
THE_FATTIE said:
Actually I thought a head and Ordered the stainless bolts and the o rings when I got the carb kits...

I did not order the boots tho, because at $26-30 each my funds would be quickly gone. I have to spread out the cost a bit.

Currently Im having idle issues (jumping all over and hanging high rpms after throttle let go), as well as actual driving issues. Every once in a while, it seems like its running alright, but when I put it into first and let off the clutch it will buck and die, or it will go but any time I try to get above abotu 5mph it will bog down and die...
Click to expand...


Classic intake air leak sysmptoms
 
So you think boots and o rings will help then? Anything else to concider buying while Im at it?

I was planning on using a dremil to cut them into flat heads or cut the heads off and grove them so they are more easily taken out. Is that a bad Idea? I bought the alan head kit so Im not worried about wrecking these screws...
 
Try the drift punch first, after a day long soak with PB blaster. I have heard it works great.

When I did mine, I set the tip of an old straight screwdriver on edge and tapped them counter clock a few taps then they came out with a #3 phillips easy. Took out the near screw, twist the manifold to get to the far screw... tap tap tap, remove... repeat three more times...
Getting a dremel in there would be a pain.
 
Hi,

READ ME:
exclaim_sign4.gif
<<Click

Then read the following:

[FONT=Verdana, sans-serif]Mikuni BS(CV) Carburetor Rebuild Tutorial
[/FONT](Mr. Nessism)

Air Intake Repair:
Airbox removal, intake boots and O-ring replacement

Synchronize Carburetors
(With the Morgan Carbtune)

Plug Chops-Highest RPM Methods
(by Mr. tkent02 and Mr. psyguy)

Valve Adjustments (8 Valve)

That should get you started. Then read the rest of the material on my littel website. It will help you get your bike insanely happy. Don't take shortcuts or you will be very frustrated.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff


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