Carb removal simplified?

[Rein]

Hey guys, I picked up a gs650L two weeks ago, and everytime I gotta take the carbs out, I have to remove the battery to get to the bolt that holds the airbox and regulator, then the bolts on top of the airbox, and then the airboxes. It's also a pain to get the rubber boots on the airbox side in. Takes me a good 15-25 wasted minutes to get to the carbs.

Is there any way, other than individual air filters to get those carbs out of there? I would go with individual filters, but I don't have enough spare cash at the moment for a jetting kit.

 

[Tom MLC]

Welcome to the world of GS. I can tell you, there really is no easy way to remove carbs. You know the old saying, "practice makes perfect"? Guess what? You will become an expert, just like the rest of us!

Best tip I can give you is to become a master at rebuilding carbs. :-k Then hopefully you will only have to remove & reinstall once, when necessary. Personally I have not mastered this art. I am forever frustrated with on-again off-again carbs.

 

[Steve]

Why are you removing the carbs so many times? :-k

You take them off once, clean them PROPERLY, meaning a good dip, new o-rings, etc., clean the cam chain tensioner while you have the carbs off, then put it all back together ONCE. Any further routine maintenance only involves removing the valve cover, so the carbs don't have to get moved again.

By the way, the method you are using is the easy way.

If you decide to go with individual filters just to make the carb removal easier, get set for a bunch more carb removal while you get the jetting dialed in.

.

 

[Rein]

Why are you removing the carbs so many times? :-k

You take them off once, clean them PROPERLY, meaning a good dip, new o-rings, etc., clean the cam chain tensioner while you have the carbs off, then put it all back together ONCE. Any further routine maintenance only involves removing the valve cover, so the carbs don't have to get moved again.

By the way, the method you are using is the easy way.

If you decide to go with individual filters just to make the carb removal easier, get set for a bunch more carb removal while you get the jetting dialed in.

.

Who said I was cleaning things three times?

FYI, I took them out three times because:

First time needed a clean. This involved a nice 32 hour dip in carb cleaner, new o-rings from Mr. Robert Barr, 2 new diaphragms, new float needles, emulsion screws, floats, and plugs.

Second time, found out that the rubbers from the airbox to the carbs were deformed, and I had to take off the carbs to remove that part.

Third time, once the bike was running, I learned it needed intake boot o rings, and a new intake boot for #2

I guess separate filters are make it much easier?

 

[JTsGS650]

The airbox is made up of two seperate pieces with a clamp in the middle. Just loosen the clamp and pull the forward part of the airbox back to pull the boots off the carbs. Putting them back on can be difficult. I use a big screwdriver and wedge it between the frame and airbox, lube can also help.

 

[julien]

I've only done it a couple of times so I am no expert.
1st time was last week for cleaning/dip and intake boots replacement.
2nd time was because one of the carb was leaking after I put them back.
The second time around I used a piece of wood to bring up the carbs to line up with the airbox... this made the sliding of the airbox back into the carbs much easier.

 

[Suzuki_Don]

I've only done it a couple of times so I am no expert.
1st time was last week for cleaning/dip and intake boots replacement.
2nd time was because one of the carb was leaking after I put them back.
The second time around I used a piece of wood to bring up the carbs to line up with the airbox... this made the sliding of the airbox back into the carbs much easier.

Pictures please JULIEN.

 

[julien]

Ok... here is a pic... now this pic was taken tonight... the carbs were already on and connected to intake boots and airbox... but you should get the idea.
I had a piece of 2x3 on each side under the carbs. I used them to elevate the carbs a little which allowed me to slide the airbox back in place without too much trouble.
Hope this helps someone.

 

[woodman]

Im going to remove the mounting bolts and see if I can tip the motor forward on my 80 GS1100E

 

[jadesystem]

The easiest way to remove and reinstall carbs is to use lithium grease at the boots ID throat to make reinstallation a snap. You have to take all obstructions out so that the 1/4" room that you do have is used wisely
to your advantage for the carbs to slide out. The first time is a bitch,
but the second time after you've installed the lithium grease, it comes
out clean and very easily.

Remove the throttle and choke cables from the carbs by unscrewing the manifold, and then twisting the throttle to remove the cable attachment.

You should be able to remove the carb assembly in 5-minutes with the grease, and 45-minutes without it.

 

[julien]

To me removing isn't the problem... it's putting it back inside that can be difficult. However I must say that the second time around was easier... so it can only get better with practice.

 

[Rein]

The easiest way to remove and reinstall carbs is to use lithium grease at the boots ID throat to make reinstallation a snap. You have to take all obstructions out so that the 1/4" room that you do have is used wisely
to your advantage for the carbs to slide out. The first time is a bitch,
but the second time after you've installed the lithium grease, it comes
out clean and very easily.

Remove the throttle and choke cables from the carbs by unscrewing the manifold, and then twisting the throttle to remove the cable attachment.

You should be able to remove the carb assembly in 5-minutes with the grease, and 45-minutes without it.

I thought lithium grease, being petroleum based, eats away at rubber?

 

[reddirtrider]

I thought lithium grease, being petroleum based, eats away at rubber?

Having a rubber compound that doesn't resist petroleum based products wouldn't be ideal for a carbureted system. Just a guess.

 

[dirtyfingers]

I thought lithium grease, being petroleum based, eats away at rubber?

I would imagine it might be. I use a shot of gumout in each one for a lubricant, it dries away and leaves no residue. A handy tool to have for installing airbox boots is a "cotter pin puller". It looks like a giant pick, a sort of awl with a bent tip. I know Crafstman has one. Used as a shoehorn to slide around the carb throat and guide the boots on.

 

[woodman]

I use silicone grease in a tube for electrical high voltage appications for lube. It doesnt hurt the rubber, thats what its made for

 

[Don-lo]

Woodman, your 1100E has the round tubes without the flange. Once you pop the carbs backwards out of the tubes, you can then force the front of the carbs down and remove those tubes. I usually only need to remove the right 2 tubes. If your tubes are old, they may crack, but that means it was time for new ones anyway.

 

[Rein]

Having a rubber compound that doesn't resist petroleum based products wouldn't be ideal for a carbureted system. Just a guess.

Yes, but gas dries up, while lithium grease sits on the boot forever. Not to mention, I think the only time gas comes in contact with the airbox boots, is when the carb overflows.