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Carb removal

  • Thread starter Thread starter redstedman
  • Start date Start date
R

redstedman

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Pretty tight fit on my 82 1100E. What is the special trick for carb removal. I have loosened the air box bolts & pushed it back. Seems like a nightmare. My Hondas are easier(except the CBX) It is too hard to remove the float bowls with these carbs mounted.

I think I can get them out but it might be rough wedging them back in.
Tricks please? Thanks, John
 
Ya might have to put a little grease on the rubber parts.
Unfortunately there is no easy way.
 
I figured. Thanks. Must do some jetting as I am a little lean.
 
On my 1000, I removed the motor mount bolts and jacked up the back of the engine. That gives another 1/2 inch to work with.
 
Read where you can get some more clearance space by removing the air cleaner box and snorkel that connects the air cleaner box to the air box,
also may have to remove the battery box. This should allow 1/2" more room to work with. Just enough to allow removal/installation.
 
Remove the filter snorkel and tube. Unbolt the airbox and leave the carbs in the airbox tubes. Pull everything back as much as possible and extract the carbs from the carb pipes (attached to the head), leaving the carbs in the airbox for the time being . Wiggle the carbs and point them down while extracting from the airbox tubes. Pull carb bank out to the left side as much as possible and remove the two screws that hold the throttle/choke cables. Extract the cables by moving the throttle linkage and choke linkage. Pull the carb bank out the left side. Have a beer, you have earned it.
 
I always though that bike had loads of room to get the crabs in and out compared to the others.....

Airfilter back box off and removed, main airbox unbolted and pulled back and there's plenty of room - with a bit of gentle tugging.
 
Thank you gentlemen. I had removed the snorkle & choke/ throttle, etc. I was right there. Will get it done tomarrow.
 
Once you have the carbs out, order a stage 3 jet kit & pods. Then place a "For Sale" ad for your stock airbox. Problem solved!!! Ray.
 
I wouldn't mind it but I know what a nighmare it is with CV carbs & pods. Now maybe a set of Keihin CR specials.................
 
What a POS set up. I have NEVER had such a tight carb air box deal. I was wrong, my CBX with 6 carbs IS easier. I don't think it is worth while like this. I may have to go with direct lift carbs & pods. What a nightmare:mad:
 
It is a lot easier with new rubber carb intake pipes (on the head) and intake boots (on the airbox). But it ain't easy, no matter how you paint it.
I just did mine last week. Took me about 1/2 an hour to remove (had to remember the correct sequence to follow) and about an hour to install (the inside rubber boots are difficult to reach to fit around the carbs).
Just be patient and it can be done. If I wasn't such a stickler for having a completely stock bike I would have done pods years ago.
 
I had to look that one up, so I will translate:
doddle: child's play.
It's not often I have to look words up, but you got me on that one.
 
Yes, its just one of those things. I'm sure you get better at it the more you do it.

I have got it done. 142.5 mains & 50 slow jets. V & H header, air box lid off(bought it that way.) Plugs look good, header temps damn near perfectly even. I just found some free HP. It is definatly quicker, & pulls better in the big end. Now to find me a sucker with a stock 1100F. Where is my buddy Stetler:lol::lol::lol:
 
It's similar to changing tires....you have to get in the right mindset and get prepared for it! Otherwise it will frustrate you!

Soooo glad I have a 78 GS....WAY easier.
 
redstedman said:
My 78 GS has direct lift carbs & pods:lol:Easy on easy off
Click to expand...

Yep, I friggin love my 78, good ol' reliable VM's!
Engines seem more bullet proof than the 80's.


My 78 sat for 2 years, and when I revived it, all I did was spray the carbs out real quick....ran like a champ, starts every time idles perfectly.

That would never work with my 82!:lol:
 
There is an easy way, takes 10-15 mins with a lot less effort. Remove the rear airbox and loosen the forward airbox. Loosen the rear clamps on the front boots and pull the carbs backwards, out of the boots. Here is the trick: you want to get the boots for cylinders 3 & 4 out of the way. Loosen the front clamps on 3 & 4, rotate boot 4 to face down, push up on the carbs, and remove the boot. You have to squeeze and pry on it a little, but even old boots come off fairly easily. Repeat for #3. Actually, you may rotate the boot up, and push the carbs down :-k, but it makes sense when you do it. With those 2 boots out of the way, the carbs practically fly out of there ;). You can of course remove boots 1 & 2 in the same way, but that's overkill to me. Remove the throttle cable and choke cable on the way out.

Reverse to install, ESPECIALLY get the cables attached on the way in.

I use armor-all on the boots to preserve them and make them slippery.
 
Don-lo said:
There is an easy way, takes 10-15 mins with a lot less effort. Remove the rear airbox and loosen the forward airbox. Loosen the rear clamps on the front boots and pull the carbs backwards, out of the boots. Here is the trick: you want to get the boots for cylinders 3 & 4 out of the way. Loosen the front clamps on 3 & 4, rotate boot 4 to face down, push up on the carbs, and remove the boot. You have to squeeze and pry on it a little, but even old boots come off fairly easily. Repeat for #3. Actually, you may rotate the boot up, and push the carbs down :-k, but it makes sense when you do it. With those 2 boots out of the way, the carbs practically fly out of there ;). You can of course remove boots 1 & 2 in the same way, but that's overkill to me. Remove the throttle cable and choke cable on the way out.

Reverse to install, ESPECIALLY get the cables attached on the way in.

So NOW you show me the secret handshake! I knew there had to be a "trick" Hopefully They won't be coming off for a while. My plugs are perfect color & the bike rips.
Thanks guys, John
Click to expand...
 
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