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Carb slide sticks

  • Thread starter Thread starter Ilanidrac
  • Start date Start date
I adjusted the jets as you had suggested, but it's acting pretty much the same. I'm getting confused now.

The bike has great compression. Only thing I can think of is it's just not getting enough fuel. On choke the bike seems to run normal, but once off choke it won't rev at all.

I'm thinking maybe the petcock isn't letting enough fuel through?

Any more ideas?
 
Well, I took a look at the petcock, and there is PLENTY of fuel getting down.

As a recap, here is a list of what was done so far:

-Center two carb slides were sticking
...-Replaced bent up needle jets
......-No longer stick
......-RESOLVED
-Bike only runs properly with choke, idle off choke for about 15 seconds
-Pulled apart carbs and soaked for 7 days
-Ensured all passageways were clear
...-Ensured all jets we not clogged
......-All jets are stock
-Air box is stock
-New o-ring kit for the carbs
-New intake o-rings
-New float gaskets
-Stock jetting
-Set air/fuel jets properly
-Checked compression
...-Great compression
-Checked fuel flow from petcock
...-Plenty of fuel gets by
...-The petcock looks like it was broken, ad previous owner bypassed it with an in-line valve
-Bike is being tested with the airbox connected
-Tested spark plugs
...-Spark is great on all 4
-Point are clean and adjusted
...-They also look brand new
-Advance appears to be working normally

It really seems like that since the bike runs on choke, that there is not enough fuel getting to the engine. Really strapped for ideas, as I want to avoid having to replace the carb rack.
 
Ok. The only think i realize that I didn't do yet, was adjust the valves. So I took the thing apart to check the clearances....and I can't even describe how way off they all were.

So now begs the question...where can i get the Shims and the tool to actually adjust them? Followup: Would the valves cause symptoms that I am showing?

Thanks for any help.
 
Ilanidrac said:
Ok. The only think i realize that I didn't do yet, was adjust the valves. So I took the thing apart to check the clearances....and I can't even describe how way off they all were.

So now begs the question...where can i get the Shims and the tool to actually adjust them? Followup: Would the valves cause symptoms that I am showing?

Thanks for any help.
Click to expand...
It appears that all 11 of your posts have been in this thread and BassCliff has not had the opportunity to give you his official Mega-Welcome, so click on the link I just gave you and start reading. In there, you will find many suggestions for vendors and tools. There is a great tutorial that will supplement a service manual that you should have. If you don't have one, get one off BassCliff's site. You will also learn that you don't need to buy a special tool to adjust your valves, other than a good set of feeler gauges.

You can also look for a post from some guy named "Steve" and take advantage of the offer in his sig,
down2.gif
it might help you a bit with your valve adjustment.

From what I have seen of your posts, mis-adjusted valves would not cause those problems. What would cause them is a blockage in the pilot circuit of one or more of your carbs. When you had your pilot fuel screws out, did they have nice sharp points? If not, one of those points might be stuck, blocking the fuel that you need.

.
 
Steve said:
It appears that all 11 of your posts have been in this thread and BassCliff has not had the opportunity to give you his official Mega-Welcome, so click on the link I just gave you and start reading. In there, you will find many suggestions for vendors and tools. There is a great tutorial that will supplement a service manual that you should have. If you don't have one, get one off BassCliff's site. You will also learn that you don't need to buy a special tool to adjust your valves, other than a good set of feeler gauges.

You can also look for a post from some guy named "Steve" and take advantage of the offer in his sig,
down2.gif
it might help you a bit with your valve adjustment.

From what I have seen of your posts, mis-adjusted valves would not cause those problems. What would cause them is a blockage in the pilot circuit of one or more of your carbs. When you had your pilot fuel screws out, did they have nice sharp points? If not, one of those points might be stuck, blocking the fuel that you need.

.
Click to expand...

That could be it. All the times I had these things apart, i had not noticed anything like that since I wasn't looking for it. If this is the case, would there be a way to free up the passageway, or some easy way to test if it does have a good blockage like that? I won't be able to rip the carbs apart until next weekend, but I will be definitely giving this a check.

I will email you about that valve guide! They definitely need an adjustment, whether or not they are the cause of this issue.
 
The only way to free them up is to properly tear them down, dip each carb for 24 hours, and put back together with new orings.

Get Nessism's carb rebuild tutorial and follow it closely.
 
cowboyup3371 said:
The only way to free them up is to properly tear them down, dip each carb for 24 hours, and put back together with new orings.

Get Nessism's carb rebuild tutorial and follow it closely.
Click to expand...

I've done this a few times already. I don't think these carbs could be any cleaner lol. New o-rings and float gaskets as well.
 
Take some 000 steel wool and scrub the towers the slides go in...there may be some slight burrs. Also roll the slides on a flat piece real clean glass. Look for anything that may be out of the ordinary such as burring..or maybe abit out of round from being dropped. Maybe swap the slides to another carb too. One may fit better than the other in a different body??
 
Ilanidrac said:
That could be it. All the times I had these things apart, i had not noticed anything like that since I wasn't looking for it. If this is the case, would there be a way to free up the passageway, or some easy way to test if it does have a good blockage like that? I won't be able to rip the carbs apart until next weekend, but I will be definitely giving this a check.
Click to expand...
You might be able to feel the tips just barely poking into the carb throat. If you can feel them, remove the screw from the outside, then use the round shank of a Phillips screwdriver to roll across the tip in the carb throat, you might break it free.

.
 
chuck hahn said:
Take some 000 steel wool and scrub the towers the slides go in...there may be some slight burrs. Also roll the slides on a flat piece real clean glass. Look for anything that may be out of the ordinary such as burring..or maybe abit out of round from being dropped. Maybe swap the slides to another carb too. One may fit better than the other in a different body??
Click to expand...

The slides themselves no longer stick. It turned out that the needle jet that the needle sits into on two of the carbs were bent up pretty bad. I got some replacements, and the slides act good as new!

Only problem I have now is the running issues. Will only run and idle on choke, and and throttle at all kills the bike.
 
Steve said:
You might be able to feel the tips just barely poking into the carb throat. If you can feel them, remove the screw from the outside, then use the round shank of a Phillips screwdriver to roll across the tip in the carb throat, you might break it free.

.
Click to expand...

Ill give this a shot over next weekend. I am hoping to get this thing running soon!

Thanks for all the tips so far, everyone!
 
I have successfully adjusted the valves (Thanks to Steve for all the info on how to!), and rechecked the carbs again. I don't see any passageways as being clogged. They have been soaked 4 or 5 times for 24hours or more each time, and when spraying some cleaner into each passageway, it comes out full force from the other side of the passage.

The bike still only idles on choke (when blipping the choke the revs do go up and down), if off choke it dies off in about 10-15 seconds, and no matter when applied, any thottle whatsoever will kill the bike.

Any other ideas? Is this in some way electrical? Thanks for any more suggestions.
 
I may have missed this but were the carbs bench synced and is the master idle screw set high enough so they will idle. After all that, if the bike will idle, a real carb sync would be good.
 
It could be that the are closed too far, Have you tried to sync them ? I would do a mechanical sync first, it gets you very close... Re try
Back out the idle screw all the way.. Then adjust the #3 carb to where it just barley is closed. Then adjust the idle screw up until you can slide a 1/16" drill bit under the slide Then adjust the carbs 1,2 &4 to the same opening.It sounds like you may have a leak with the carb air box
 
Last edited:
UPDATE!!!

I have an old set of carbs, the exact same, that I had taken some needle jets from. My father was looking at them, and accidentally stumbled upon our answer! There was a spring on each carb in the wrong position, and they were holding the needles down not allowing them to open to let enough fuel in for it to rev. After moving all the springs where they needed to go, the bike revs like a champ!!!!

Thanks for all the input and suggestions guys!! Can finally call this one solved!
 
Thanks for the update. :clap: :clap:

Now, go back and look at the carb rebuild pages again.

Do they not show the proper assembly order for the needles?

If not, maybe we need to update the rebuild guide. :rolleyes:

.
 
Steve said:
Thanks for the update. :clap: :clap:

Now, go back and look at the carb rebuild pages again.

Do they not show the proper assembly order for the needles?

If not, maybe we need to update the rebuild guide. :rolleyes:

.
Click to expand...

They gotta come off the bike again, and now we are gonna go though them with a fine tooth comb, just to be sure.

Good thing we had that spare rack to check against too lol.
 
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