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carb syncing

  • Thread starter Thread starter crapwacker
  • Start date Start date
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crapwacker

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Broke down and BOUGHT a manometer today. Opened the package and I had to prep this thing for use! Cut the lines to length, install restrictors in the lines, and it's missing an o ring from one of the adapters. For God's sake when you cough up that much coin, it should be plug and play!!
#1 Do you need to adjust the slides when doing this?
#2 Next is adjusting the idle air screws, correct?
Yes, new intake orings, full rebuild with new parts, good boots, ect
 
1) Sync has NOTHING to do with idle air screws, fuel screws, etc etc. It only has to do with how much the slides are open in relation to eachother and in relation to how much vaccum each cylinder is pulling. You need to balance the pull because inherantly the cylinders arent going to be the same.

2) yes, you will need to adjust the slide adjustment screws at the top of each slide. You'll need a 9?mm wrench and a GOOD flat blade screwdriver that fits WELL...

Once you have them synced (and you're LUCKY youre doing this the first time on mech carbs...vac carbs SUCK to balance) then you can play with your adjustment screws some more...
 
Yes, you need to adjust the slides. Remove the top cap off the carbs to do this. VM's are easier to sync than CV's in my opinion. I'd adjust the sync after setting the air screws to achieve the highest idle. If the air screws seem unresponsive in terms of tweaking the idle speed, set them all to the same relative position and do the sync.
 
Thanks. I thought that since I didn't mess with the adjustment screws for the slides I wouldn't have to sync them. Anyhow, it'll be done and at least one less variable in the equation
 
you remove the slides, you must resync. While its easier to sync your carbs, tuning for pods and a pipe is made more of a PITA because you have to resync every time you change the needle position.
 
Hey Crapwacker, which one did you get?

The air screw has really nothing to do with the carb sync.

If you got the motion pro, you will need to follow directions on syncing the fluid levels first off of one carb.

You will need to pull the caps/tops off of all 4 carbs. Once you have the sync set up and hooked up, you start with carb #3. Looking down on the carb there is a small standard screw and a locking nut. You loosen the nut and adjust the sync by turning the screw.

Then sync carb #2 off of #3 by evening out the fluid height levels till they are equal.

Then sync to carb#1 and then carb #4. Most have carb #1 and #4 slightly higher (but equal) then carbs 2 and 3 (which should be equal in height).

The challenge is keeping the heights right while tightening the lock nuts. There is a tool that helps with this but you can do it just fine..you need to hold the screw driver in and use a small wrench to tighten the nut.

Rick
 
OF COURSE! Nice fitting M2R GP1, bought it the week before my test:dancing:
 
Yes a motion pro. Price wasn't much more than I'd seen them for online
 
the needle is now set at 2nd notch. thecafekid suggested moving the clip down to the 3rd
 
oh and I installed new exhaust gaskets, the old ones, especially #2, were fried
 
LOVE that pipe, by the way. It took about 45 min to run a tap for the can mount! PITA. more time doing that than replacing the gaskets!
 
ryonker said:
You will need to pull the caps/tops off of all 4 carbs. Once you have the sync set up and hooked up, you start with carb #3. Looking down on the carb there is a small standard screw and a locking nut. You loosen the nut and adjust the sync by turning the screw.

Then sync carb #2 off of #3 by evening out the fluid height levels till they are equal.

Then sync to carb#1 and then carb #4. Most have carb #1 and #4 slightly higher (but equal) then carbs 2 and 3 (which should be equal in height).

The challenge is keeping the heights right while tightening the lock nuts. There is a tool that helps with this but you can do it just fine..you need to hold the screw driver in and use a small wrench to tighten the nut.

Rick
Click to expand...
Good intentions, but they do not apply in this case. :oops:
The only part that applies is the part about taking off all four carb tops.

The VM carbs on his bike have NO master carb, so it does not really matter which one he starts with.
The carb slides are all directly attached to a single rod that runs through the tops of the carbs, so none of them slaves off another.

That is what makes them easier to sync than the BS carbs.

Personally, when I do a carb sync (either type of carb), I will leave the gauges hooked up while I do the mixture adjustment.
After doing the mixture adjustment, I will verify that nothing changed with the sync.
Have never seen any change, but it gives me warm fuzzies. :o

.
 
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